VTA tuning and questions
#1
VTA tuning and questions
I wanted to make this thread to maybe give some guys some help from some of the faster guys. Personally I don't know a lot about set up and my vta and tc set up are a result of many many questions, but i'm working on it. I can spot a car in need of some attention, and I saw a couple today Hope this helps
FIRE AWAY
FIRE AWAY
#2
Ok ... Here is one for ya ...Today ... first qua was a good solide run ... something I could work with ... changed a few major things on the car ... to help be acheive more over speed in the car installed a ballistic novac and pulled the ss out .... no biggie gearing remanded the same .... had another set of tires installed them on the car in race trim ... go out for hott laps and can tell the improvements helped .. I felt more confeident in the car after hottlapping to get ready to be on the like we start ... I make a lap of two feeling great ... then the car floops horrobly ... going into a courner and the back end swaps ends like a gremlin inside pulling the ebrake ..... it would swapp sides no matter what courner rite or left didnt matter
#3
Ok ... Here is one for ya ...Today ... first qua was a good solide run ... something I could work with ... changed a few major things on the car ... to help be acheive more over speed in the car installed a ballistic novac and pulled the ss out .... no biggie gearing remanded the same .... had another set of tires installed them on the car in race trim ... go out for hott laps and can tell the improvements helped .. I felt more confeident in the car after hottlapping to get ready to be on the like we start ... I make a lap of two feeling great ... then the car floops horrobly ... going into a courner and the back end swaps ends like a gremlin inside pulling the ebrake ..... it would swapp sides no matter what courner rite or left didnt matter
#4
Lmao ... Well dont know everything about the car ... buy the thing i did check was the ride reight ... the ride height in the rear was a bit excessive 8.5 in back with 7 in the front...... droop all the way around was a 4 .... caster and camber dont know the tools were N/A .. rite before the main i noticed some tweak in the chass got that fixed .... The car was free and square best to my knowledge .... the car in the beginning of hott lapps steering was twitchy and go where you needed the car go .... till deeper into the run and the car would begin to push and loop the backen of the car if you got aggrissive with the throttle and that was in consistant
#5
Lmao ... Well dont know everything about the car ... buy the thing i did check was the ride reight ... the ride height in the rear was a bit excessive 8.5 in back with 7 in the front...... droop all the way around was a 4 .... caster and camber dont know the tools were N/A .. rite before the main i noticed some tweak in the chass got that fixed .... The car was free and square best to my knowledge .... the car in the beginning of hott lapps steering was twitchy and go where you needed the car go .... till deeper into the run and the car would begin to push and loop the backen of the car if you got aggrissive with the throttle and that was in consistant
#6
That seems like a lot of ride height my car is at 6 in the rear with 4 mil of active droop (tires lift at 10). Not saying thats the best or even the problem but my car feels pretty good.......just gotta keep my head in the mains
I learned something today. something I have never had a problem with so have never thought about. It is so important that your spur and pinions be in pristine condition. I had a set screw back out on the pinion part way and it shifted over. This then chewed into the spur in areas. I replaced the pinion and looked at the spur and saw the chatterd spots. I thought to my self that it would need to be replaced, but it should be fine for the rest of the day. My car was a dog the second heat I had zero top end and even less rip. I replaced the spur for the main and the car came back up to speed. So a fraction of a milameter killed my cars performance due to loss of efficency................Just a thought
I learned something today. something I have never had a problem with so have never thought about. It is so important that your spur and pinions be in pristine condition. I had a set screw back out on the pinion part way and it shifted over. This then chewed into the spur in areas. I replaced the pinion and looked at the spur and saw the chatterd spots. I thought to my self that it would need to be replaced, but it should be fine for the rest of the day. My car was a dog the second heat I had zero top end and even less rip. I replaced the spur for the main and the car came back up to speed. So a fraction of a milameter killed my cars performance due to loss of efficency................Just a thought
#7
Chop Shop was nice enough to lend me the car ... I got two laps of practice .. then straight to the qual .. I had alot of adjustments to make ... Next time will be better ... I had a great time ... And I really had a great time wheeling Steves nitro car ... Thanx Steve ... I hope I didnt burn the brakes up ... haha
#8
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
another thing to consider is your tires. a broken glue joint can throw your car into a bad spin out or make it push. use alot of force tring to peal the sidewall of the tire from the rim if it lifts or stretches in a area re glue it i sware this is probably something thats over looked by everyone at some point.
when building a new set of tires even with black or white rims u need to sand or scrape the areas glue will be applied it makes for a much better joint.
let the inserts sit out for a hour or so to get the creas out of them before installing the insert.
wonce the wheels are together before gluing get 2 rinches and spin the rim inside the tire this will help set the bead better.
droop and role R major tools in vta (not the only 2 but it does make a difference)
hope thiese tips help
when building a new set of tires even with black or white rims u need to sand or scrape the areas glue will be applied it makes for a much better joint.
let the inserts sit out for a hour or so to get the creas out of them before installing the insert.
wonce the wheels are together before gluing get 2 rinches and spin the rim inside the tire this will help set the bead better.
droop and role R major tools in vta (not the only 2 but it does make a difference)
hope thiese tips help
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (48)
Chop Shop was nice enough to lend me the car ... I got two laps of practice .. then straight to the qual .. I had alot of adjustments to make ... Next time will be better ... I had a great time ... And I really had a great time wheeling Steves nitro car ... Thanx Steve ... I hope I didnt burn the brakes up ... haha