Kershaw Designs X Maxx Aluminum Chassis
06-07-2016, 10:24 PM
#1
Kershaw Designs X Maxx Aluminum Chassis
I'm excited about it. Not necessarily because I'm going to rush out and buy it, the price is a little to rich for my blood. I just hope this means that someone like RC Monster puts one out closer to the $200 mark.
Anyhow, It lowers the center of gravity, provides a provision for a 1/5 scale servo, adds stiffness, and comes in close to the same weight as the original plastic.
Link: http://www.kershawdesigns.com/X-Maxx-Chassis.htm
Anyhow, It lowers the center of gravity, provides a provision for a 1/5 scale servo, adds stiffness, and comes in close to the same weight as the original plastic.
Link: http://www.kershawdesigns.com/X-Maxx-Chassis.htm
06-07-2016, 11:12 PM
#2
too bad they didn't show one actually mounted. are the lipo lower than the body ?
06-08-2016, 01:06 AM
#3
I was wondering the same honestly. I would be good if they had a short video or something of the chassis in action.
06-08-2016, 06:38 PM
#4
Don't mean to rain on anyone's parade but this could be designed better. Forgive my pics, did a quick drawing on my phone.
The green circles show the attachment points. Ends of the chassis go into the shock tower and 2 screws on each corner secure it plus there's a brace above them. But take a look at the front and rear attachment points on the chassis itself. The battery boxes and the ribbing running down the center of the chassis form a nice solid structure front to rear between the attachment points.
Now have a look at the Kershaw chassis. Again the shock tower attachment points are circled in green. Yup the battery tray is lower. But look at the front and rear attachment points, there's no solid structure between them. Those shock tower attachment points are also secured to the chassis by a single screw (circled in red) that's not double shear. The chassis itself may be strong, but those shock tower attachment points are not. The screw attaching them at the bottom could break, the rail they attach to at the bottom could twist or things could just bend in an impact.
The green circles show the attachment points. Ends of the chassis go into the shock tower and 2 screws on each corner secure it plus there's a brace above them. But take a look at the front and rear attachment points on the chassis itself. The battery boxes and the ribbing running down the center of the chassis form a nice solid structure front to rear between the attachment points.
Now have a look at the Kershaw chassis. Again the shock tower attachment points are circled in green. Yup the battery tray is lower. But look at the front and rear attachment points, there's no solid structure between them. Those shock tower attachment points are also secured to the chassis by a single screw (circled in red) that's not double shear. The chassis itself may be strong, but those shock tower attachment points are not. The screw attaching them at the bottom could break, the rail they attach to at the bottom could twist or things could just bend in an impact.
06-08-2016, 07:05 PM
#5
you re right man ! this chassis seems like it will fold in its center like a piece of paper !!
but aybe there is an additional chassis stiffener that run from the front part to the rear part ?
but aybe there is an additional chassis stiffener that run from the front part to the rear part ?
06-09-2016, 02:33 AM
#6
Actually I think the center is plenty strong. It's how he turned the shock tower attachment points into outriggers with no bracing that's troublesome for me. I can see those being the point of failure that lets the truck fold while the center part of the chassis holds strong.
06-09-2016, 04:46 AM
#7
There's got to be an additional brace that ties the upper part of the attaching brackets together when it's fully assembled. If not, having only 4 single shear attaching points for a truck this size, especially with all of the attention on structural integrity in the center section, seems like a pretty glaring design mistake.....
06-10-2016, 04:14 AM
#8
Tech Fanatic
Kinda strange. I didn't know the stock chassis was a problem. Seems to me that the only real problem with the Xmaxx is the diffs, and I guess the underpowered ESC that everyone replaces. That seems to be standard procedure with Traxxas. Spend $800 on truck, proceed with replacing everything you just paid for lol!
06-10-2016, 05:20 AM
#9
Kinda strange. I didn't know the stock chassis was a problem. Seems to me that the only real problem with the Xmaxx is the diffs, and I guess the underpowered ESC that everyone replaces. That seems to be standard procedure with Traxxas. Spend $800 on truck, proceed with replacing everything you just paid for lol!
06-10-2016, 05:35 AM
#10
" because Traxxas diffs always like more weight and more power "
lol !
lol !
06-10-2016, 08:32 AM
#11
Tech Fanatic
Love it Lol!! I've read of several different X Maxx owners stripping diff gears running the stock ESC/Motor. The cop out made by XMAXX enthusiasts is that the slipper wasn't adjusted properly. I say whatever! Until the slipper is adjusted with a mini torque wrench, who knows where to really set it. Adding more power will just put the Xmaxx in the same category as the Tmaxx with a big block conversion. Some guys swear it's great and no need for better diffs. Other guys (like me) find out it sucks because unless you baby it, it breaks repeatedly lol!
06-10-2016, 04:04 PM
#12
Until the slipper is adjusted with a mini torque wrench, who knows where to really set it. Adding more power will just put the Xmaxx in the same category as the Tmaxx with a big block conversion. Some guys swear it's great and no need for better diffs. Other guys (like me) find out it sucks because unless you baby it, it breaks repeatedly lol!
It's funny, before going brushless I came from the world of big block TMaxx and Revo trucks. Shredded my fair share of ring and pinions, cracked diff cups and spider gears. Lots of carnage back then. Thankfully I learned how to roll on the throttle more instead of just stabbing it by the time I went brushless. Then I learned something even more important, there's way better vehicles out there...
06-10-2016, 05:07 PM
#13
Tech Regular
Love it Lol!! I've read of several different X Maxx owners stripping diff gears running the stock ESC/Motor. The cop out made by XMAXX enthusiasts is that the slipper wasn't adjusted properly. I say whatever! Until the slipper is adjusted with a mini torque wrench, who knows where to really set it. Adding more power will just put the Xmaxx in the same category as the Tmaxx with a big block conversion. Some guys swear it's great and no need for better diffs. Other guys (like me) find out it sucks because unless you baby it, it breaks repeatedly lol!
This sounds exactly like a axial yeti xl. Now that's a real piece of junk.
At least some have enough experience to identify and maybe deal with the bad engeering. I don't have that kind of time.
The sad part is these company's put out stuff they know won't last but it will sell.
This is why I won't buy anything new till its been out a while.
Lesson learned the hardway.
06-11-2016, 07:09 AM
#14
I have personally crashed on to my parked car. The rear wheel to be exact. Just after a 44mph pass. The XMAXX took a nice solid hit. Body went flying, Cracked front lower bulkhead. Bent center drive shaft. ESC nearly exploded. Top brace cracked. Steering arm cracked.
The actual damage to the XMAXX was minimal for the speed in which it hit. If I had this LCG it would have bent the chassis for sure. Which would then cost me another 300 + dollars to fix. The plastic parts totaled around 60.00 plus a new ESC. Which I already had.
It's important to consider repair costs because sometimes the unthinkable happens.
Broken parts just after a 44 mph pass on 8s w/ 1/5 scale setup.
The actual damage to the XMAXX was minimal for the speed in which it hit. If I had this LCG it would have bent the chassis for sure. Which would then cost me another 300 + dollars to fix. The plastic parts totaled around 60.00 plus a new ESC. Which I already had.
It's important to consider repair costs because sometimes the unthinkable happens.
Broken parts just after a 44 mph pass on 8s w/ 1/5 scale setup.
06-11-2016, 10:45 AM
#15
The actual damage to the XMAXX was minimal for the speed in which it hit. If I had this LCG it would have bent the chassis for sure. Which would then cost me another 300 + dollars to fix. The plastic parts totaled around 60.00 plus a new ESC. Which I already had.
It's important to consider repair costs because sometimes the unthinkable happens.
It's important to consider repair costs because sometimes the unthinkable happens.