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New to me lst roller brushless converted

New to me lst roller brushless converted

Old 04-04-2016, 02:46 AM
  #16  
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Price wise, this may be cheaper then buying the parts seperatly?

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collecti...fts-axles-pins

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collecti...ing-pin-screws

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collecti...vot-pins-clips

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collecti...vot-pins-clips

Then you do not have to buy the hingepins seperatly either.
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:27 PM
  #17  
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Alright thanks guys. I'll be buying from a chop shop, and consider dollarhobbyz but I can get it overall cheaper from another seller, thats my intention. And I'll end up with either the eight or lst hubs dunno yet.

As far as evrything else,I should have the truck by friday and can take it apart this weekend and see whats needed to run some insane power thru it. I may hold off for just a little bit on converting over to the lst2/xxl spec as I have a wedding soon, then moving immediately after that and also bought an AE rc8te roller that will need some electronics that I don't have. As for the lst, when it arrives, if I want to I have everything for it already to atleast run.



So I'll have some questions for a while about this lst and probably start a separate thread for my rc8te. For the mean time, I'm selling my Emaxx and qould be willing to part it out if I get enough interest.
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Old 04-07-2016, 07:33 PM
  #18  
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Ok so I have the truck in today, some issues but its getting worked out.

First off, its does have FOC already whether it came stock or a kit I dont know. It does have 17mm hubs which are plastic, it seems to have a 14mm nut. So would I be able to just pick up some lst2 17mm hubs and be okay? Add some shims too.

And I have done some research and seem this commmon issue with the older lst jacing too short of center drive shafts, it looks crazy as the pins of the dog bone are at the edge of the drive cups

To be 100% sure, the lst xxl chassis is identical to the xxl 2 E with the exception of the motor mount?
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:54 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BuGgYBaShEr.28
It does have 17mm hubs which are plastic, it seems to have a 14mm nut. So would I be able to just pick up some lst2 17mm hubs and be okay?


This is a LST2 cvd. Look at the stub axle. It's all 8mm in diameter, no steps in it and it's threaded inside for a grub screw to retain the drive pin. Now have a look at your rc8te, loosen the grub screw, let the drive pin fall out and pull off the hex adapter, the stub axles are the same style as the LST2. The style of 17mm hex adapters that are on the rc8te is the style of hex adapters the LST2 uses.

Now have a look at the stub axles on your truck. They're not 8mm, they're 6mm and threaded on the end for a nut. You can't use LST2 hex adapters on them and nothing LST2 is going to fit your stub axles, no way, no how. If you want to use whatever 17mm hex that came with the truck that's fine, but you said you need a wheel nut for 17mm wheels? Well the Savage had that style of 17mm wheel nut but it won't work on both sides of your truck. The LST1 and Aftershock stub axles have reverse threads on one side of the truck to help prevent the wheel nuts from coming loose. The Savage 17mm wheel nuts aren't available in reverse thread. You'd have to buy another set of normal thread stub axles and swap them in to use the Savage 17mm wheel nuts unless the previous owner already did it.

When I converted my nephews aftershock I was in the same boat as you, except I already stripped out all the 14mm wheels I had left. Then had the drive pin turn inside the hex after I glued the hex to the wheel! I tried a set of metal 14mm hex I had around that fit but the drive pin didn't fit them tightly (believe they were Savage 17mm hex) and the hex shattered. I did test fit some Traxxas Revo/Maxx 17mm hex adapters I had around and they did fit. I forget the exact issues but I do remember there being a bunch of space between the adapter and the knuckle due to the location of the drive pin hole in the axle. Maybe try test fitting your EMaxx adapters before buying anything. Either way I decided it was easier and better to just go LST2 (found a Losi LST2 conversion kit on eBay clearanced for $50) instead of investing in another set of normal thread stub axles and the Savage 17mm wheel nuts or dealing with any other adapters.

Don't worry about the center cvd's being barely in the drive cup, it's normal and has never been an issue. If one does pop out you likely have an issue somewhere else with something bent or broken in the chassis.

As far as the XXL2e chassis here's what I know. The Transmission was rotated 180 degrees compared to all other LST's to put the motor up front. Losi also change the position of at least one of the motor mount slots (I forget whether it's one or two of the motor mount slots) compared to the motor mount pattern used on all other LST's. All aftermarket conversion mounts use the old style motor mount pattern. The mounting holes were also moved closer to the edge of the chassis which could make pinion alignment an issue as well if using an older style mount on a XXL2e chassis. A member here actually put a XXL2e chassis on top of another chassis to show the difference and I believe it's in the XXL2e thread somewhere.

But your concern is with the XXL2e battery tray being able to mount to a XXL chassis since it can take 2 battery packs and you want to use the packs from your Emaxx. I've been looking at the XXL2e chassis and tray online and after I figured out where it mounts I can say it should work. You will have to drill some new holes in your current (not sure if there's enough room up for it on a short chassis) or a XXL chassis to match the existing holes in the tray, but the holes in the tray line up in places where that won't be an issue. I still don't know what the bottom of the XXL2e tray looks like (flat? Raised mounting legs/stands?) but if it's flat you could just drill new holes in the tray to match existing holes in the chassis. Either way I'm fairly confident it will mount without too much fuss.

Edit: Finally found a pic from the side that clearly shows the battery tray is flat on the bottom, nothing raised. So the lower portion of the tray will be easy to mount with a couple new holes drilled in the chassis or tray. The tray has 2 holes in the upper portion that on the XXL2e go into the plastic braces on top of the chassis. These may not be needed depending on how flexible the tray is. If they are needed you can just swap the rear plastic braces on your truck to the front (the braces are identical, the rears are drilled on nitro models to mount the fuel tank) or drill into the ones up front. You will need to drill through the chassis and into the side rails though as your current chassis or a XXL chassis won't have these holes up front and the braces don't have enough meat on them for mounting if I remember correctly. So other than drilling some holes the tray should mount without too much fuss.

Last edited by Overdriven; 04-08-2016 at 01:49 AM.
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Old 04-08-2016, 04:14 AM
  #20  
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Alright then so to make ot easier I'll simply pick up some 8mm axles. I also have settled for the lst2 xxl chassis with some new shafts. I don't mind drilling new holes, shouldn't be a problem. Like you said I did see that the tray was flat underneath so shouldn't be difficult. Sooo I have tried to hunt down a lst2 xxl chassis and cannot find one, only thing that pops up is the xxl 2 red chassis

Upon getting the truck, I found the chassis brace be the trannny to be cracked so he is sending me a new one. Also, I found that the motor mount has a broken screw in it, as far as getting it out seems like drilling it is best?

Last edited by BuGgYBaShEr.28; 04-08-2016 at 05:49 AM.
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Old 04-08-2016, 05:57 AM
  #21  
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Ok so the xxl manual says losb2278 but Google says losb2287 so is this correct?



Ok so this plate with the xxl side rails, some center shafts, new 8mm axles and hubs, also would grt the newer suspension. The new battery tray should also be easier to install on this chassis than the shorter one I should be good after that?

Last edited by BuGgYBaShEr.28; 04-08-2016 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:27 AM
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Losb2287 for the XXL chassis plate, losb2250 for the side rails, XXL center shafts (2), the complete LST2/XXL suspension (minus shocks) and cvd's plus your battery tray and yes that should do it.

Broken screws that small are a royal pain. If you're going to drill it out use a drill bit that's slightly smaller than the screw. Take apart the mount, find the side of the broken screw that is flatter. Use a punch to mark the center and give a guide for the bit. Clamp it down to the table of a drill press, set the drill press to its lowest speed. Go slow and don't use too much pressure otherwise the drill bit will walk and drill into the mount. Chances are you'll have to drill the hole out a size bigger and tap it for a larger screw either way but if the bit walks you'll just make things worse.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:33 AM
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Idk the dimensions of how much room is on the shorter chassis. The spur gear is the main obstacle there. But if it fit the upper deck will want to be where the receiver box is. On the XXL chassis you can slide the tray back on the chassis and drill new holes in the tray for the upper deck giving more room for the receiver box but it's possible there may still be an issue.
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:58 PM
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Well I'll see what I can come up with over the next few weeks. And Overdriven, thanks for all your help as always.


So after looking at some more pics of the xxl, looks like I will mount the esc on some homemade mount on the rear, use a traxxas rx box underneath it or next to the motor, then gives me all the room up front for that doubl battery tray. Should work out nice this way and shouldn't ne too cluttered.
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Old 04-10-2016, 04:57 PM
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Here she is, I made some plates out of aluminum I had laying around with a dremel and a file, filled shocks and diffs and checked the tranny. Did the single servo mod with an emaxx rod and a slash shock rod end ( was all I had lol but works great). I noticed that all hardware was sae so I switched must of what I could to mm.

Its running 5s with a 1717 1650kv mm2 and a savox 2270. 27t pinion and 63t spur. This monster did not get warm so I guess I have plenty of room for gearing, any one recommend anything?

So other than that its running great till i add some other upgrades.





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Old 04-10-2016, 05:03 PM
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Might not look like much but I spent a total of 2 full days going thru this completely to get an understanding of what need attention and some plain tlc. I've ran two packs thru it today, and broke a rear shaft, haven't looked at yet but I think its the pin in the joint to connect the stub axle and shaft together. More reason to go to 8mm
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:04 PM
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Looking good, glad you got to have at least a little fun before anything broke. As for the gearing, a no cost way to gain a little speed (3mph with current 27/63) is the "gear flip" or "swap mod" in the transmission. Basically just taking the gear from the input shaft and swapping it with the one on the intermediate shaft. The trans case will need to be clearanced a little and a few shims added but basically no cost involved.
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Overdriven
Looking good, glad you got to have at least a little fun before anything broke. As for the gearing, a no cost way to gain a little speed (3mph with current 27/63) is the "gear flip" or "swap mod" in the transmission. Basically just taking the gear from the input shaft and swapping it with the one on the intermediate shaft. The trans case will need to be clearanced a little and a few shims added but basically no cost involved.
I think I've read about this, I have to grind a little bit off in the inside case, as far as shims, what diameter is the shaft 5mm or 6mm?


Then I took that rear shaft off last nite, looks like the pin completely fell out as the grub screw was loose. i also notice some flex in the motor mount with this 1717, might be a good idea to support the rear of the can??
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:29 AM
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Shaft is 6mm, but if you have to buy shims you're getting close to the price of a pinion. Up to you which way you want to go.

I'm surprised the mount is flexing, maybe the screws attaching the vertical part to the base are not as tight as they should be or the chassis itself is flexing? Only potential issue is the mesh not being quite right if there's some flex. My homemade mount flexes a little and I've never had an issue with my plastic spur gear. If you want to support the motor I'd just stuff some thick/stiff foam under it or you could go further and make some sort of block. But that block's thickness will need to be tailored to the pinion used as the motor height will change depending on the pinion. Maybe a block with foam between it and the motor.
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Old 04-11-2016, 12:16 PM
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Ok thank you, I already have shims and just wanted to verify the size needed. I will also check those two screws, I should have when it was apart lol.
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