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Old 08-07-2015, 10:21 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mudbug85603
Don't know to what extreme it is bottoming out. You want it to land on the chassis slightly. The chassis takes the abuse instead of the arms and towers suffering all the abuse.
I would prefer it to not bottom out at all. It doesn't hit too hard, but enough that I don't like it. I was able to barely get that RPM center skid to fit, but it protects my aluminum parts well. I use front and rear T Bone bumpers that protect everything else from getting beat up. I use spring steel skids attached to the lower cross braces to my FLM hybrid bulks. Then the use of modified OEM skids on top of those to take up the gap. I have a complete front and rear set of the lower FLM control arms, but decided to use the OEM lower control arms up front and the RPM True Track lower rears. I wanted to stay plastic down low so I don't have to worry about bent or nicked up aluminum control arms. Plus I needed some flex in the suspension for spills.

I was really hoping that those Ofna shocks had threaded bodies. I might look into Losi shocks or go with Traxxas big bores and some type of other stronger springs. I wish this was easier or there was a proven shock setup.
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Old 08-08-2015, 01:41 AM
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Firstly, every truck should bottom out lightly for it to operate normally. If it doesn't all of the weight will load on the shocks, and you will be replacing shafts & rod ends "every" run. Secondly, you are not going to be given an off the shelf option, as your truck is built differently to almost all others, with various aftermarket parts you chose to your taste. So google builds that are similar to where you want yours to end up, and use that information to make your decision. Thirdly, there are plenty of trucks heavier than yours, you are still running a stock chassis. As mudbug said Hyper fronts are a good length, and would take the weight of your truck easily. If you want threaded bodies, then google it and find some. If you want to run only 4 shocks, use stiffer OFNA springs, if you want to run 8, then run medium to soft to suit your preferred driving style...
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:55 AM
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Just looked at the pics of your truck. The springs you are running appear to be the 3x7x3 not the 12Lb. With the truck you show, those shocks you have will work fine. I run them on my basher in the LCG chassis with no problem. The basher truck of mine weighs 18Lbs with the aluminum rims and Mudslingers think it lands lightly?, no, but slightly, yes. You should just accept the fact that the truck needs to land on the chassis. That's why folks use cheap skid covers, they are expendable. If you want, there are TiNi shafts available for those shocks, but you shouldn't need them. You shouldn't need preload spacers on any shock you choose since I see FLM towers. 80w oil is much to thick practically "0" dampening effect, at most use 50W. Plastic rod ends are not reusable once they pull out or you take them off just throw them away. Can't glue them or JB Weld them they are garbage. Get some alloy rod ends, problem solved.

Don't mean to sound bossy here, just telling it like it is

Last edited by mudbug85603; 08-08-2015 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mudbug85603
Just looked at the pics of your truck. The springs you are running appear to be the 3x7x3 not the 12Lb. With the truck you show, those shocks you have will work fine. I run them on my basher in the LCG chassis with no problem. The basher truck of mine weighs 18Lbs with the aluminum rims and Mudslingers think it lands lightly?, no, but slightly, yes. You should just accept the fact that the truck needs to land on the chassis. That's why folks use cheap skid covers, they are expendable. If you want, there are TiNi shafts available for those shocks, but you shouldn't need them. You shouldn't need preload spacers on any shock you choose since I see FLM towers. 80w oil is much to thick practically "0" dampening effect, at most use 50W. Plastic rod ends are not reusable once they pull out or you take them off just throw them away. Can't glue them or JB Weld them they are garbage. Get some alloy rod ends, problem solved.

Don't mean to sound bossy here, just telling it like it is
No, I don't find it bossy man. I hear ya. The springs are probably good, but when I used 50wt oil prior to the 80wt oil, the suspension was way too springy. The plushness was not there. When I went to 80wt oil, it was right where it needed to be and felt perfect.
I understand how to use Google guys, but the options for good quality Shock options aren't there like they use to be. I wanted either Proline or UE shocks. Not made anymore. I want a shock with 3.5 - 4mm Shock shafts. What I want is not there unless I go with another brand of shocks from another manufacturer. Even then, that doesn't tell me that they will fit or there are Shock mounts to adapt them to the towers with the correct amount of spacing.
Integy and the like is junk, so where does that leave me? That said, a simple Google search does not give me the answers.
Also, where are you guys finding the metal Shock ends?
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkSammy
Firstly, every truck should bottom out lightly for it to operate normally. If it doesn't all of the weight will load on the shocks, and you will be replacing shafts & rod ends "every" run. Secondly, you are not going to be given an off the shelf option, as your truck is built differently to almost all others, with various aftermarket parts you chose to your taste. So google builds that are similar to where you want yours to end up, and use that information to make your decision. Thirdly, there are plenty of trucks heavier than yours, you are still running a stock chassis. As mudbug said Hyper fronts are a good length, and would take the weight of your truck easily. If you want threaded bodies, then google it and find some. If you want to run only 4 shocks, use stiffer OFNA springs, if you want to run 8, then run medium to soft to suit your preferred driving style...
Btw, the aluminum chassis barely weigh more than the stock chassis. A FLM or a RCMonster chassis were designed to weigh close to what the stock chassis weighs. I will weigh mine fully dressed on a small digital scale. I bet it weighs more than 13lbs. Those batteries are heavy.
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Old 08-08-2015, 04:29 PM
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Best I can tell you at this point is.... Find some shocks, then give us as much info about them as you can before you buy them. Maybe then we can be of some help. Or do as Sam suggested take one of your old shocks to your LHS and match them up.

For shock ends, wouldn't worry about that till you figure out what shocks to run .

I have found some shocks on eBay for the extended chassis of mine. They are pretty much what you are looking for. Will not give them an endorsement yet. As this is the first time I have run them. Will get into more detail with links when I get back to my computer later tonite.
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:34 PM
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What I do know about these shocks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Big...item1a03afbec0

1. They came with some really thin o rings for caps seals that don't work. Fixed them with these http://www.nitrohouse.com/14mm-Shock...rs_p_6150.html These seals are a little to large for the cap. But can be easily maneuvered in to fit and seal tight.

2.They are 14mm aluminum with threaded shock bodies

3. Any spring for a Maxx will fit

4. 4mm shafts

5. They look good IMO

6. The springs retainers are a little on the large side. My steering turnbuckles which are not stock Traxxas parts rub very slightly on them. I believe a stock turnbuckle would have no clearance issue. The turnbuckles I run are fatter than stock.

7. 2 hole pistons

8. Have no idea of who manufactured them or if replacement parts are available.

9. I assume you have FLM shock standoffs..... The shock mount on the cap is too fat and will have to be ground slightly thinner to work properly with the FLM stand offs

Other than that I can't tell you anything. I have run one full pack on this truck with those shocks. So if you decide to buy these do so without my recommendation.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mudbug85603
What I do know about these shocks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Big...item1a03afbec0

1. They came with some really thin o rings for caps seals that don't work. Fixed them with these http://www.nitrohouse.com/14mm-Shock...rs_p_6150.html These seals are a little to large for the cap. But can be easily maneuvered in to fit and seal tight.

2.They are 14mm aluminum with threaded shock bodies

3. Any spring for a Maxx will fit

4. 4mm shafts

5. They look good IMO

6. The springs retainers are a little on the large side. My steering turnbuckles which are not stock Traxxas parts rub very slightly on them. I believe a stock turnbuckle would have no clearance issue. The turnbuckles I run are fatter than stock.

7. 2 hole pistons

8. Have no idea of who manufactured them or if replacement parts are available.

9. I assume you have FLM shock standoffs..... The shock mount on the cap is too fat and will have to be ground slightly thinner to work properly with the FLM stand offs

Other than that I can't tell you anything. I have run one full pack on this truck with those shocks. So if you decide to buy these do so without my recommendation.
I looked at these units online. They look well machined, but I can see how the caps would interfere with the towers. They are huge. I found a few others I have seen with the help of this eBay search. There are a few I'm looking at, but none seem too promising when I search reviews on them. The problem with the ones you posted would be getting parts for them as you had already stated. 4mm shafts is beefy none the less. However, if they leak or I need seals from them, I would be screwed with a ton of searching around.

I even sent the seller two questions regarding the shocks and did not receive a response.

At this point, I am looking at either going with Traxxas Big Bores, Ofna 7 shocks or some Losi shocks. The Losi shocks with be the most expensive, but I'm certain they would be the best. Now this leaves me with finding all of what I will need for them to make them work and then evaluate the cost and the worth of going with them.

My build will have 8 shocks. 4 shocks were considered, but I am just not certain if they would be enough.

Sigh, I wish this was easier.
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:50 PM
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I used 8 Ofna LX1, LX1e buggy front shocks on my old Emaxx build with the stock yellow springs found on the nitro buggy. They worked great out of the box and a fluid change made them even better. They're threaded body, fit through RPM arms and mount like Traxxas shocks. The buggy is discontinued though so finding them (especially new ones) might be an issue. UE Supershocks are Ofna LX rear shocks modified with shorter shafts to prevent bottoming out the shock and blowing it out.
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mudbug85603
What I do know about these shocks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Big...item1a03afbec0

1. They came with some really thin o rings for caps seals that don't work. Fixed them with these http://www.nitrohouse.com/14mm-Shock...rs_p_6150.html These seals are a little to large for the cap. But can be easily maneuvered in to fit and seal tight.

2.They are 14mm aluminum with threaded shock bodies

3. Any spring for a Maxx will fit

4. 4mm shafts

5. They look good IMO

6. The springs retainers are a little on the large side. My steering turnbuckles which are not stock Traxxas parts rub very slightly on them. I believe a stock turnbuckle would have no clearance issue. The turnbuckles I run are fatter than stock.

7. 2 hole pistons

8. Have no idea of who manufactured them or if replacement parts are available.

9. I assume you have FLM shock standoffs..... The shock mount on the cap is too fat and will have to be ground slightly thinner to work properly with the FLM stand offs

Other than that I can't tell you anything. I have run one full pack on this truck with those shocks. So if you decide to buy these do so without my recommendation.
I have a set of these and only after a few runs, one of the shocks have started to leak from the bottom. The seal inside has ripped. Crappy shocks. I bought them a while back for half that price off ebay. I'm going to get Traxxas Big Bore to replace them.

Last edited by silver5; 08-14-2015 at 12:32 PM. Reason: wrong spelling
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Old 08-15-2015, 10:18 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by silver5
I have a set of these and only after a few runs, one of the shocks have started to leak from the bottom. The seal inside has ripped. Crappy shocks. I bought them a while back for half that price off ebay. I'm going to get Traxxas Big Bore to replace them.

You might want to try the Ofna Hyper 7 front shocks they work great. Much beefier than Traxxas shocks, I have a hard time justifying spending money on anything Traxxas anymore. When there are much better parts available that are less expensive.

Time will tell on those aluminum shocks you had mentioned. Got a decent price on them and so far they are working great. If they end up being junk for a runner, then they will work for someones shelf queen with a little cleaning and polishing.
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Old 08-15-2015, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mudbug85603
You might want to try the Ofna Hyper 7 front shocks they work great. Much beefier than Traxxas shocks, I have a hard time justifying spending money on anything Traxxas anymore. When there are much better parts available that are less expensive.

Time will tell on those aluminum shocks you had mentioned. Got a decent price on them and so far they are working great. If they end up being junk for a runner, then they will work for someones shelf queen with a little cleaning and polishing.
Do you know what size the shock shaft is on the Ofna shocks? If they aren't bigger than 3mm and aren't hardened, then the shear Shock body size means nothing.
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:23 PM
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Traxxas big bores are a great cheap option. They fit without issues, rebuild kits are cheap and in stock everywhere, they do not bend shafts and they do not leak. And there are tons of spring options available cheap too. VG racing makes the 12ppi springs and they will hold up your truck no problem.

Those silver ones mudbug posted are crap. They are made by Kinghobby, who illegally makes low quality clones of other peoples work. You should avoid that seller (actually you should report him to ebay any time you see his items), and avoid anything made by him.
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Old 08-15-2015, 08:30 PM
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My deciding factor is being able to get parts to rebuild when needed.
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Old 08-15-2015, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by COP4
Do you know what size the shock shaft is on the Ofna shocks? If they aren't bigger than 3mm and aren't hardened, then the shear Shock body size means nothing.
Pretty sure the Ofna's have a 4mm shaft....... Would have to go out the work shop and measure them to be sure.... I do know they aren't 3mm
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