Dnyce

Have an XXL2-e on order, can't wait to get it this week!

I've been out of the rc hobby for 20+ years or since I was a kid, had a Losi JR-X2 and RC10 buggies back in the day. Recently I got to run a Traxxas Bigfoot with vxl brushless + lipo, now I'm hooked and wanted an 1/8 scale MT..

I've been doing research on the XXL2-e and it appears I have to be careful with the drivetrain when running on 6S, so I bought a Castle Link to adjust the power curve and torque delivery down low.. anything else preventative that I should do besides loctite to get prepped for first run?

Thanks for your suggestions.

Zenna

Use Loctite 243 on all hardware in the drive train and use Loctite 263 on the slipper nut (degrease properly or the Loctite won't work). Get spare shock shafts they a very brittle. The main drive pinion in the diffs have lateral play in them causing the case to crack under shock accelerating/braking, they need to be shimmed with shim material ASAP. I used brass shim material and cut into small strips. This is not the same shimming as everyone else explains, they are describing horizontal play with the ring and pinion. I found out the hard way that no one else discussed on any forum.

The most important thing is set the slipper clutch correctly, if it's not set properly you will damage your diffs and drive train very quickly. You can google how to set properly. Also make sure the pinion and spur are correctly set. You can google how to set properly. Use 243 for the pinion grub screw.

The thrust bearing is also very week do not over tighten the slipper or it will fall apart under load. I found a replacement from my local bearing supplier, i use the grooved washer it comes with on one side and the large washer originally on the truck. If you don't use the grooved washer, the bearing and large washer won't center properly due to the large washer being over size on the ID causing it to disintegrate.

Go over the truck and check for assembly issues, i had an issue with the front diff housing not mounted correctly. The drive shaft was then to short not making proper engagement with the transmission outdrive cup.

I run 6s also and it's WAY different to anything less. The only parts i have replaced so far is Diff Ring & Pinion, diff case, shock shafts and rod end. I have shimmed the diffs and used the diff oil upgrade. I don't use silicone oil in my diffs i use Stihl chainsaw bar oil, its relatively thin, does not brake down from heat and is VERY sticky. I also upgraded to the yellow springs, the original black ones are to soft. I also modified the wheelie bar to integrate a coilover from a Wraith, so far it's in one piece.

I found it somewhat hard and time consuming to find the information i needed to get the car to where it is, if you need any other info or pics let me know ill help.

PS. Don't forget to change the pinion to the one supplied for 6s.

Dnyce

Thanks for the thorough information, I really appreciate it!! I definitely only plan to run 6S so this helps me out a lot. I will PM you if I have any specific questions.

Tzicul

I also use this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-2-...sAAOSw34FVFsKW

ark1t3kt

I use this one from Avid.

3x8 Bearing 3x8x3.5 Thrust Bearing Bearing F3-8M

noobiznessflyin

iTrader: (2)

My first impression of this truck when I unboxed it --- "Wow look at those big @$$ beefy shocks!"
Then 10 mins after the first run on 4s a shock shaft snaps like a twig.

***sigh

BuGgYBaShEr.28

I run mine on 5s and 6s and this truck at times will cart wheel for the longest amount of time. I have had no issues with shock shafts. I have snapped one control arm and bent the crap out of the wing mount. And have also snapped the long shaft in the trans, but other than that it's been a great truck. I run the xo-1 1717 1650kv with a XLX esc

Zenna

No problem anytime

noobiznessflyin

iTrader: (2)

I'm hoping mine was just a mfg defect as I plan to run it on 6s too. Mine just cartwheeled a few times and then snap.

Zenna

Those should do fine.

Zenna

I had two breaks in a similar fashion, don't worry i know a fix for the problem...

Before you fit the new shaft to the shock or fit the rod end, heat the threaded end that goes into the rod end (the part that snaps off) to a cherry red colour and let it cool SLOWLY.
DO NOT heat the rest of the shaft, only 2 mm below the thread.

This will anneal the steel and stop it from being so brittle. Hope this helps.

noobiznessflyin

iTrader: (2)

Great I'll try that. Thanks for the tip!

Tzicul

This is quite an interesting idea! I'm tired already changing this shafts, now I have the reason to buy one of those cheap Tesla coils from aliexpress

ark1t3kt

I had the same problem with mine (broke 2). I found that installing the T-Bone racing front bumper helped protect the front end and eliminated breaks.

Dnyce

What other truck bodies fit on the XXL2 chasis?