Emaxx 3908 Needs Better Bulkheads and Rear Diff. Strong Options?
#17
Tech Apprentice
#18
Thanks Tug, I can find them if needed, but wasn't sure of the rest. Yeah mine is pretty stout on 4S, 44-45mph on 4S (tire ballooning crazy), but thought I would play with 6S for a bit with some HPI road tires I have. I'm almost considering changing platforms, to a Mugen or Ofna, but am waiting. But I know I would miss the MT aspect.
#19
Thanks Tug, I can find them if needed, but wasn't sure of the rest. Yeah mine is pretty stout on 4S, 44-45mph on 4S (tire ballooning crazy), but thought I would play with 6S for a bit with some HPI road tires I have. I'm almost considering changing platforms, to a Mugen or Ofna, but am waiting. But I know I would miss the MT aspect.
#20
I thought the same way up until I became bored of 4s power. Now 5s power is more of a challenge to control, but I could see myself wanting to try out 6s, but as of right now, I have other problems to sort out first.
#21
What aluminum steering knuckles do you guys recommend using? If anyone is thinking of posting Integy, please don't.
I was thinking of these: http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...VO21XG06;c=647
I was thinking of these: http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...VO21XG06;c=647
Last edited by COP4; 05-15-2015 at 04:11 PM.
#22
Tech Master
iTrader: (186)
He stated that the drive cups for the input and both outputs would connect to any of the aftermarket center cvds and the aftermarket drive axles.
I'm further thinking about purchasing a set of TVR http://www.tvrrc.com/shop/shop.html# drive axles for all four corners.
I also am looking at these eBay from RCDamper http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARD-STEEL-S...-/181174742047
I'm further thinking about purchasing a set of TVR http://www.tvrrc.com/shop/shop.html# drive axles for all four corners.
I also am looking at these eBay from RCDamper http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARD-STEEL-S...-/181174742047
What aluminum steering knuckles do you guys recommend using? If anyone is thinking of posting Integy, please don't.
I was thinking of these: http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...VO21XG06;c=647
I was thinking of these: http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...VO21XG06;c=647
If you really want to run 5s-6s you will need to do major upgrades, like an aluminum chassis FLM or the RCM Vmaxx chassis. You need traxxas 6mm stub axles so you can run traxxas steel cvd's or mip's.
Once you finish upgrading the the diffs, bulks, and chassis you will notice that the stocks shocks are garbage too and they won't hold the truck..then the servos..at the end you ended building a second truck..
I know the emaxx is a nice truck, but unfortunately needs a lot of upgrade$$ to make it a beast.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...xl2-mamba.html
#23
Don't waste your money on any of those axles they are garbage. Get MIP's instead, you don't need HR aluminum knuckles either, rpm or stocks are cheaper.
If you really want to run 5s-6s you will need to do major upgrades, like an aluminum chassis FLM or the RCM Vmaxx chassis. You need traxxas 6mm stub axles so you can run traxxas steel cvd's or mip's.
Once you finish upgrading the the diffs, bulks, and chassis you will notice that the stocks shocks are garbage too and they won't hold the truck..then the servos..at the end you ended building a second truck..
I know the emaxx is a nice truck, but unfortunately needs a lot of upgrade$$ to make it a beast.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...xl2-mamba.html
If you really want to run 5s-6s you will need to do major upgrades, like an aluminum chassis FLM or the RCM Vmaxx chassis. You need traxxas 6mm stub axles so you can run traxxas steel cvd's or mip's.
Once you finish upgrading the the diffs, bulks, and chassis you will notice that the stocks shocks are garbage too and they won't hold the truck..then the servos..at the end you ended building a second truck..
I know the emaxx is a nice truck, but unfortunately needs a lot of upgrade$$ to make it a beast.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...xl2-mamba.html
The OEM steering knuckles are garbage. Tons of bearing flex within the bearing race. No way would I use them anymore. RPM is an option, but there again, their product flexs as well, just not as much. RPM's products were designed to flex instead of break, thus why they offer lifetime warranty.
The aluminum chassis is on the menu, but not until I get my FLM hybrid bulks built and the suspension arms beefed up. I need some give, but not a lot. I have my OEM shocks beefed up with 50w oil, aluminum caps and RCRaven springs. They actually do quite well without much support of adding spring spacers. However, Losi LST2 shocks are also on the menu. That or UE shocks.
I have a multitude of airplanes to fly if needed instead of investing in another platform. For now that is.
#24
I haven't tried it, but I've heard using Losi LST diffs works well, but requires some modding to fit in the Maxx bulks. But they are affordable and durable and can be used with stock style bulks.
Edit: For drive shafts MIP and Traxxas work well, I've had good luck with THS shafts too, but I'm not positive they would fit an E Maxx. I did blow out the CV end (Cracked the cup part of the CVD) of an MIP shaft on my T Maxx once using my heavy chassis and a 2.5R, the THS ones that are on there have been there for years and are holding up fine with zero maintainance. I realize my truck isn't brushless, but it has very heavy tires on it, weighs about 14lb, and the LRP .28 has a ton of torque so it's not a bad test bed. I run a steel center rear dogbone, a Traxxas steel center front shaft, and THS steel CVD's on the corners.
Edit: For drive shafts MIP and Traxxas work well, I've had good luck with THS shafts too, but I'm not positive they would fit an E Maxx. I did blow out the CV end (Cracked the cup part of the CVD) of an MIP shaft on my T Maxx once using my heavy chassis and a 2.5R, the THS ones that are on there have been there for years and are holding up fine with zero maintainance. I realize my truck isn't brushless, but it has very heavy tires on it, weighs about 14lb, and the LRP .28 has a ton of torque so it's not a bad test bed. I run a steel center rear dogbone, a Traxxas steel center front shaft, and THS steel CVD's on the corners.
Last edited by Maxximize; 05-17-2015 at 08:20 PM.
#25
The hyper 7TQ diff would most probably be the best bang for your buck. But there is a few things you might need to go with it.
This is the list of goodies you need, to get your Hybrids completed.
2X Hyper 7TQ diffs
http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/ofna/hyp...ferential.html
Some shims for the pinion gear shaft.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...mm-shim-kit-10 &
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...10x01mm-Shim-8
Some shims for the diff, to the outer diff case.
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/tekno-r...kr1222/p231848 & http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/protek-...h-5904/p188792
The 1/8 scale diffs, still used 6mm output shafts. But the drive cup and output shaft is one piece. So you need to remove the hyper TQ output shafts from the diff. and replace them with output shafts that have no drive cup.
And the output shafts that have no drive cup are the ones you need from RC-Monster (out of stock).
Or alternatively, you could use the Revo stub axles (5454) with the threaded part cut off. You will need a dremel, grinder or hacksaw to cut the threads off the revo stub axles. Or your local mechanic, if you don't have anything to cut with.
Here is a link for the stub axles: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFY7&P=7
And if you wanted to use the Traxxas steel CVD's for the axles, you will need to use the extended drive cups (5153R) . Especially when using RPM true tracks.
Here is a link to the Extended drive cups http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTPP0&P=7
The center drive cup has an 8mm bore. So the stock 6mm center shafts wont fit on the 8mm pinion shaft. So you would need to use a dog bone type of center shaft, and 2 drive cups with 8mm bores.
The transmission side is only 6mm. so you can use any drive cups that have a 6mm bore, for both sides of the transmission.
This is the list of goodies you need, to get your Hybrids completed.
2X Hyper 7TQ diffs
http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/ofna/hyp...ferential.html
Some shims for the pinion gear shaft.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...mm-shim-kit-10 &
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...10x01mm-Shim-8
Some shims for the diff, to the outer diff case.
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/tekno-r...kr1222/p231848 & http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/protek-...h-5904/p188792
The 1/8 scale diffs, still used 6mm output shafts. But the drive cup and output shaft is one piece. So you need to remove the hyper TQ output shafts from the diff. and replace them with output shafts that have no drive cup.
And the output shafts that have no drive cup are the ones you need from RC-Monster (out of stock).
Or alternatively, you could use the Revo stub axles (5454) with the threaded part cut off. You will need a dremel, grinder or hacksaw to cut the threads off the revo stub axles. Or your local mechanic, if you don't have anything to cut with.
Here is a link for the stub axles: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFY7&P=7
And if you wanted to use the Traxxas steel CVD's for the axles, you will need to use the extended drive cups (5153R) . Especially when using RPM true tracks.
Here is a link to the Extended drive cups http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTPP0&P=7
The center drive cup has an 8mm bore. So the stock 6mm center shafts wont fit on the 8mm pinion shaft. So you would need to use a dog bone type of center shaft, and 2 drive cups with 8mm bores.
The transmission side is only 6mm. so you can use any drive cups that have a 6mm bore, for both sides of the transmission.
#26
Tech Adept
#27
#28
Im running the flm hybrids with the caster racing diffs and MIP splined driveshafts on 6s. Works great, no issues.
#30
Thanks a ton guys! I now have everything on order for this $$$$$ pit!
My next upgrades will be a while, but it will consist of a RC-Monster aluminum chassis, slipperential, 6s capable motor and LOSI shocks. Sheesh....