1/8 Monster Truck - What do you guys recommend and why?
04-22-2015, 06:58 PM
#46
You can run basically any nitro you want as long as it's for cars and trucks. I run Byron's 30% with 11% oil and Bones 30% with 10% oil in both big the Kyosho and My LRP T Maxx. They both run fine on it, it will just be a bit richer than with higher oil content fuel. With my small blocks I always run 20% Byrons with 11% oil, but the big blocks seem to run a lot better on 25% or higher and like 8 to 11% oil. I recently tried some VP basher with 14% oil in it in my LRP and it would not run at all on that, though my buddies nitro rusty .15 eats it. Switched to Byrons 25% with 8% oil, added some castor to bring it up to around 10% oil and it ran great. Over 2 quarts through it now and it still has pinch. Now I've been running the Bones 30% with 10% oil and both the Kyosho and the LRP like it. The Kyosho is on tank #8 now and it also still has pinch. I'd say try different kinds and percentages until you find what you like most, just don't use anything lower than 20% nitro and nothing higher than 30% and you'll be fine. It should also be noted that big blocks run cooler than small blocks do. During my break in on the Mad Force I had to run it with the shell on and the head wrapped in a sock to get it to 190-200 Fahrenheit, and it was 65 degrees outside with no wind when I did it.
As for the 17mm hubs, you have many, many options for rims. Any Savage 4.6 rim, Traxxas Revo and Maxx rims, most 1/8 buggy rims, Ofna monster truck rims, and any Proline rim made for 17mm hubs like the F-11 rim and the Desperado. Proline sells some rims with tires mounted already, too. Basically any modern 1/8 scale truck rim will work with the Kyosho hub as long as it's 17mm.
I'd stick to 50% offset rims or more though for sure, I'm not sure 3.8" 0% offset rims would clear the axles under full steer and they would make the truck narrower. I may try and fit my Ofna Monster Pirate wheels that are 80% offset from my T Maxx to mine one of these days to see how it works with them
With bodies, you have a lot of options, too. The factory body is the same size as the Proline F-150 SVT Raptor T Maxx body I have so any shell made for the Savage 4.6 or Maxx trucks will work on there. I would really like the Proline '56 Ford F-100 shell or the HPI '79 F-150 shell for mine!
I think everyhing thread locked form the factory, I only had the one wheel hub nut come off mine so far.
As for batteries, I"m using a 1600 mah NiMH 6 volt hump pack in mine that works great. I'd steer clear of Lipo for a receiver pack. They are very volatile and require voltage regulators, they can also vent and burst into flames when discharged too far. Too much risk with not enough return IMO for a receiver pack. Life 6.6 volt packs seem pretty safe to use, though if you wanted to try those. Otherwise stick to the high mah rated NiMH hump packs.
Congrats on the purchase and enjoy your new truck!
As for the 17mm hubs, you have many, many options for rims. Any Savage 4.6 rim, Traxxas Revo and Maxx rims, most 1/8 buggy rims, Ofna monster truck rims, and any Proline rim made for 17mm hubs like the F-11 rim and the Desperado. Proline sells some rims with tires mounted already, too. Basically any modern 1/8 scale truck rim will work with the Kyosho hub as long as it's 17mm.
I'd stick to 50% offset rims or more though for sure, I'm not sure 3.8" 0% offset rims would clear the axles under full steer and they would make the truck narrower. I may try and fit my Ofna Monster Pirate wheels that are 80% offset from my T Maxx to mine one of these days to see how it works with them
With bodies, you have a lot of options, too. The factory body is the same size as the Proline F-150 SVT Raptor T Maxx body I have so any shell made for the Savage 4.6 or Maxx trucks will work on there. I would really like the Proline '56 Ford F-100 shell or the HPI '79 F-150 shell for mine!
I think everyhing thread locked form the factory, I only had the one wheel hub nut come off mine so far.
As for batteries, I"m using a 1600 mah NiMH 6 volt hump pack in mine that works great. I'd steer clear of Lipo for a receiver pack. They are very volatile and require voltage regulators, they can also vent and burst into flames when discharged too far. Too much risk with not enough return IMO for a receiver pack. Life 6.6 volt packs seem pretty safe to use, though if you wanted to try those. Otherwise stick to the high mah rated NiMH hump packs.
Congrats on the purchase and enjoy your new truck!
04-23-2015, 07:38 AM
#47
You can run basically any nitro you want as long as it's for cars and trucks. I run Byron's 30% with 11% oil and Bones 30% with 10% oil in both big the Kyosho and My LRP T Maxx. They both run fine on it, it will just be a bit richer than with higher oil content fuel. With my small blocks I always run 20% Byrons with 11% oil, but the big blocks seem to run a lot better on 25% or higher and like 8 to 11% oil. I recently tried some VP basher with 14% oil in it in my LRP and it would not run at all on that, though my buddies nitro rusty .15 eats it. Switched to Byrons 25% with 8% oil, added some castor to bring it up to around 10% oil and it ran great. Over 2 quarts through it now and it still has pinch. Now I've been running the Bones 30% with 10% oil and both the Kyosho and the LRP like it. The Kyosho is on tank #8 now and it also still has pinch. I'd say try different kinds and percentages until you find what you like most, just don't use anything lower than 20% nitro and nothing higher than 30% and you'll be fine. It should also be noted that big blocks run cooler than small blocks do. During my break in on the Mad Force I had to run it with the shell on and the head wrapped in a sock to get it to 190-200 Fahrenheit, and it was 65 degrees outside with no wind when I did it.
As for the 17mm hubs, you have many, many options for rims. Any Savage 4.6 rim, Traxxas Revo and Maxx rims, most 1/8 buggy rims, Ofna monster truck rims, and any Proline rim made for 17mm hubs like the F-11 rim and the Desperado. Proline sells some rims with tires mounted already, too. Basically any modern 1/8 scale truck rim will work with the Kyosho hub as long as it's 17mm.
I'd stick to 50% offset rims or more though for sure, I'm not sure 3.8" 0% offset rims would clear the axles under full steer and they would make the truck narrower. I may try and fit my Ofna Monster Pirate wheels that are 80% offset from my T Maxx to mine one of these days to see how it works with them
With bodies, you have a lot of options, too. The factory body is the same size as the Proline F-150 SVT Raptor T Maxx body I have so any shell made for the Savage 4.6 or Maxx trucks will work on there. I would really like the Proline '56 Ford F-100 shell or the HPI '79 F-150 shell for mine!
I think everyhing thread locked form the factory, I only had the one wheel hub nut come off mine so far.
As for batteries, I"m using a 1600 mah NiMH 6 volt hump pack in mine that works great. I'd steer clear of Lipo for a receiver pack. They are very volatile and require voltage regulators, they can also vent and burst into flames when discharged too far. Too much risk with not enough return IMO for a receiver pack. Life 6.6 volt packs seem pretty safe to use, though if you wanted to try those. Otherwise stick to the high mah rated NiMH hump packs.
Congrats on the purchase and enjoy your new truck!
As for the 17mm hubs, you have many, many options for rims. Any Savage 4.6 rim, Traxxas Revo and Maxx rims, most 1/8 buggy rims, Ofna monster truck rims, and any Proline rim made for 17mm hubs like the F-11 rim and the Desperado. Proline sells some rims with tires mounted already, too. Basically any modern 1/8 scale truck rim will work with the Kyosho hub as long as it's 17mm.
I'd stick to 50% offset rims or more though for sure, I'm not sure 3.8" 0% offset rims would clear the axles under full steer and they would make the truck narrower. I may try and fit my Ofna Monster Pirate wheels that are 80% offset from my T Maxx to mine one of these days to see how it works with them
With bodies, you have a lot of options, too. The factory body is the same size as the Proline F-150 SVT Raptor T Maxx body I have so any shell made for the Savage 4.6 or Maxx trucks will work on there. I would really like the Proline '56 Ford F-100 shell or the HPI '79 F-150 shell for mine!
I think everyhing thread locked form the factory, I only had the one wheel hub nut come off mine so far.
As for batteries, I"m using a 1600 mah NiMH 6 volt hump pack in mine that works great. I'd steer clear of Lipo for a receiver pack. They are very volatile and require voltage regulators, they can also vent and burst into flames when discharged too far. Too much risk with not enough return IMO for a receiver pack. Life 6.6 volt packs seem pretty safe to use, though if you wanted to try those. Otherwise stick to the high mah rated NiMH hump packs.
Congrats on the purchase and enjoy your new truck!
. To the other guys: thanks too!What's normal operating temperature for the ke25 farenheight? Minimum and max temp? Kyosh manuals have always sucked!
Forgot to ask. What is 50% offset? Is that 1/2 inch? I like the ft-11 wheels/tires. What is meant by 3.8? Is that the width of the tire?
What break in method did you use for the ke25. Thanks!
Last edited by c00lguy; 04-23-2015 at 09:53 AM.
04-25-2015, 12:13 AM
#48
No problem bro, always glad to help! Yea the manual that came with this truck is next to useless and is poorly translated to boot! Normal temp I'm guessing is around 220-240 Farenheit, I like to keep my engines below 250 degrees max if at all possible. For break in just try and keep it at around 190-220, wrap the head up if you need to. I'm finding that most big blocks run around the same temps and are slightly cooler than small blocks, and seem to all run around the same temps. I had to wrap mine in a sock and run it with the shell on for break in and it ran around 190-200. When leaned out a bit and after removing the factory silver intake limiter it heated up a bit more and runs about 200-220 under sustained throttle, slightly cooler under light throttle and slow driving.
50% offset would be like the stock rims on the mad Force where the hub sits about half way in from the outer face of the rim. The F-11 has a 50% offset as does the Desperado, I think Proline calls it 1/2 offset so that's what you'd want to go with. I think someone noted the Duratrax rims and tires here earlier, which also come in 50% offset flavors. I like the Duratrax Hatchet MT tire, I want to get a set of those some day to try out. Higher offset than 50% is rare these days, but can still be found sometimes. Examples of 80% offset would be Tamiya Clodbuster rims, and Ofna Monster Pirate, Monster Titan, and Dominator rims. Those are kind of pricey and heavy as hell though, and the Ofna ones are the only ones that are 17mm.
3.8" is the diameter of the rim without the tire on it. It is basically the modern standard 1/8 scale Monster truck rim size. All Traxxas 1/8 scale rims, HPI Savage 4.6 rims, the stock Mad Force rims, and the aftermarket 1/8 scale MT rim sizes are 3.8". The width may vary slightly, but most all tires made for a 3.8" rim will mount on one as long as the bead style is the same. There is standard bead, and Traxxas style bead. Proline uses the Traxxas bead mostly, which most people prefer over the standard style as they seem to come off the rim less often. I'm not positive, but I think standard bead 3.8" tires would work with the stock Mad Force bead lock rims.
For my break in I used the standard heat cycle method. I fired the truck up, ran it until it ran out of fuel while monitoring my temps closely, and let it cool about 10-15 minutes with the piston at bottom dead center. I drove mine around in the grass and on pavement just like I would normally do, just kept my throttle input smooth and at less than 1/2 throttle. For the first 2 or 3 tanks I went really easy on it, ran at about 1/4 throttle on level ground, driving in large circles and varying my throttle often. The silver limiter does stop you from going full throttle, though so you don't really have to worry about that part as much. I even did some hill climbing after the 5th tank, I'm never afraid to run the truck normally after a few tanks are through it. I repeated that process through 8 tanks. After the eighth tank I removed the silver intake limiter and put the blue on in, and tuned it a little. It's not quite tuned in fully yet, but I did lean it out a bit from stock after break in. I usually go 8-10 tanks for break in on pretty much any engine. If the truck runs well and runs through the full tanks with little to no stalling out 8 tanks is just fine. I run more if I have a few tanks where it didn't get up to temp as long due to stalling out or something. During break in I didn't touch the needles at all, I just used my throttle trim to set my idle up a little so it would run without stalling and started easier. I've used that exact method for years and it works quite well. The most important things are to make sure you keep the throttle input smooth and vary it often and keep it at 1/2 throttle or lower. Monitor your temps closely and make sure the engine cools enough (To about 70 degrees or so) between runs at bottom dead center. To measure bottom dead center, take out your glow plug and rotate the flywheel with your finger while watching the piston through the plug hole. When it bottoms out in there stop and mark the top of your flywheel with a paint marker or a scribe. This is necessary for good sleeve wear in during the cooling cycle. I like to leave my engines at bottom dead center all the time when they're sitting even after break in anyways so that mark comes in handy later on. The most important thing to remember is to wait for the engine to fully cool between runs, this will help the metals wear into each other better. If you're using a fuel with lower than 10% oil I add some castor oil to it for break in as well. I broke my KE25 in on 30% nitro with 10% oil and it worked fine.
Most importantly have fun with your new ride, I know I am!! This is by far the most fun truck I've ever driven.
50% offset would be like the stock rims on the mad Force where the hub sits about half way in from the outer face of the rim. The F-11 has a 50% offset as does the Desperado, I think Proline calls it 1/2 offset so that's what you'd want to go with. I think someone noted the Duratrax rims and tires here earlier, which also come in 50% offset flavors. I like the Duratrax Hatchet MT tire, I want to get a set of those some day to try out. Higher offset than 50% is rare these days, but can still be found sometimes. Examples of 80% offset would be Tamiya Clodbuster rims, and Ofna Monster Pirate, Monster Titan, and Dominator rims. Those are kind of pricey and heavy as hell though, and the Ofna ones are the only ones that are 17mm.
3.8" is the diameter of the rim without the tire on it. It is basically the modern standard 1/8 scale Monster truck rim size. All Traxxas 1/8 scale rims, HPI Savage 4.6 rims, the stock Mad Force rims, and the aftermarket 1/8 scale MT rim sizes are 3.8". The width may vary slightly, but most all tires made for a 3.8" rim will mount on one as long as the bead style is the same. There is standard bead, and Traxxas style bead. Proline uses the Traxxas bead mostly, which most people prefer over the standard style as they seem to come off the rim less often. I'm not positive, but I think standard bead 3.8" tires would work with the stock Mad Force bead lock rims.
For my break in I used the standard heat cycle method. I fired the truck up, ran it until it ran out of fuel while monitoring my temps closely, and let it cool about 10-15 minutes with the piston at bottom dead center. I drove mine around in the grass and on pavement just like I would normally do, just kept my throttle input smooth and at less than 1/2 throttle. For the first 2 or 3 tanks I went really easy on it, ran at about 1/4 throttle on level ground, driving in large circles and varying my throttle often. The silver limiter does stop you from going full throttle, though so you don't really have to worry about that part as much. I even did some hill climbing after the 5th tank, I'm never afraid to run the truck normally after a few tanks are through it. I repeated that process through 8 tanks. After the eighth tank I removed the silver intake limiter and put the blue on in, and tuned it a little. It's not quite tuned in fully yet, but I did lean it out a bit from stock after break in. I usually go 8-10 tanks for break in on pretty much any engine. If the truck runs well and runs through the full tanks with little to no stalling out 8 tanks is just fine. I run more if I have a few tanks where it didn't get up to temp as long due to stalling out or something. During break in I didn't touch the needles at all, I just used my throttle trim to set my idle up a little so it would run without stalling and started easier. I've used that exact method for years and it works quite well. The most important things are to make sure you keep the throttle input smooth and vary it often and keep it at 1/2 throttle or lower. Monitor your temps closely and make sure the engine cools enough (To about 70 degrees or so) between runs at bottom dead center. To measure bottom dead center, take out your glow plug and rotate the flywheel with your finger while watching the piston through the plug hole. When it bottoms out in there stop and mark the top of your flywheel with a paint marker or a scribe. This is necessary for good sleeve wear in during the cooling cycle. I like to leave my engines at bottom dead center all the time when they're sitting even after break in anyways so that mark comes in handy later on. The most important thing to remember is to wait for the engine to fully cool between runs, this will help the metals wear into each other better. If you're using a fuel with lower than 10% oil I add some castor oil to it for break in as well. I broke my KE25 in on 30% nitro with 10% oil and it worked fine.
Most importantly have fun with your new ride, I know I am!! This is by far the most fun truck I've ever driven.
04-28-2015, 11:22 PM
#49
No problem bro, always glad to help! Yea the manual that came with this truck is next to useless and is poorly translated to boot! Normal temp I'm guessing is around 220-240 Farenheit, I like to keep my engines below 250 degrees max if at all possible. For break in just try and keep it at around 190-220, wrap the head up if you need to. I'm finding that most big blocks run around the same temps and are slightly cooler than small blocks, and seem to all run around the same temps. I had to wrap mine in a sock and run it with the shell on for break in and it ran around 190-200. When leaned out a bit and after removing the factory silver intake limiter it heated up a bit more and runs about 200-220 under sustained throttle, slightly cooler under light throttle and slow driving.
50% offset would be like the stock rims on the mad Force where the hub sits about half way in from the outer face of the rim. The F-11 has a 50% offset as does the Desperado, I think Proline calls it 1/2 offset so that's what you'd want to go with. I think someone noted the Duratrax rims and tires here earlier, which also come in 50% offset flavors. I like the Duratrax Hatchet MT tire, I want to get a set of those some day to try out. Higher offset than 50% is rare these days, but can still be found sometimes. Examples of 80% offset would be Tamiya Clodbuster rims, and Ofna Monster Pirate, Monster Titan, and Dominator rims. Those are kind of pricey and heavy as hell though, and the Ofna ones are the only ones that are 17mm.
3.8" is the diameter of the rim without the tire on it. It is basically the modern standard 1/8 scale Monster truck rim size. All Traxxas 1/8 scale rims, HPI Savage 4.6 rims, the stock Mad Force rims, and the aftermarket 1/8 scale MT rim sizes are 3.8". The width may vary slightly, but most all tires made for a 3.8" rim will mount on one as long as the bead style is the same. There is standard bead, and Traxxas style bead. Proline uses the Traxxas bead mostly, which most people prefer over the standard style as they seem to come off the rim less often. I'm not positive, but I think standard bead 3.8" tires would work with the stock Mad Force bead lock rims.
For my break in I used the standard heat cycle method. I fired the truck up, ran it until it ran out of fuel while monitoring my temps closely, and let it cool about 10-15 minutes with the piston at bottom dead center. I drove mine around in the grass and on pavement just like I would normally do, just kept my throttle input smooth and at less than 1/2 throttle. For the first 2 or 3 tanks I went really easy on it, ran at about 1/4 throttle on level ground, driving in large circles and varying my throttle often. The silver limiter does stop you from going full throttle, though so you don't really have to worry about that part as much. I even did some hill climbing after the 5th tank, I'm never afraid to run the truck normally after a few tanks are through it. I repeated that process through 8 tanks. After the eighth tank I removed the silver intake limiter and put the blue on in, and tuned it a little. It's not quite tuned in fully yet, but I did lean it out a bit from stock after break in. I usually go 8-10 tanks for break in on pretty much any engine. If the truck runs well and runs through the full tanks with little to no stalling out 8 tanks is just fine. I run more if I have a few tanks where it didn't get up to temp as long due to stalling out or something. During break in I didn't touch the needles at all, I just used my throttle trim to set my idle up a little so it would run without stalling and started easier. I've used that exact method for years and it works quite well. The most important things are to make sure you keep the throttle input smooth and vary it often and keep it at 1/2 throttle or lower. Monitor your temps closely and make sure the engine cools enough (To about 70 degrees or so) between runs at bottom dead center. To measure bottom dead center, take out your glow plug and rotate the flywheel with your finger while watching the piston through the plug hole. When it bottoms out in there stop and mark the top of your flywheel with a paint marker or a scribe. This is necessary for good sleeve wear in during the cooling cycle. I like to leave my engines at bottom dead center all the time when they're sitting even after break in anyways so that mark comes in handy later on. The most important thing to remember is to wait for the engine to fully cool between runs, this will help the metals wear into each other better. If you're using a fuel with lower than 10% oil I add some castor oil to it for break in as well. I broke my KE25 in on 30% nitro with 10% oil and it worked fine.
Most importantly have fun with your new ride, I know I am!! This is by far the most fun truck I've ever driven.
50% offset would be like the stock rims on the mad Force where the hub sits about half way in from the outer face of the rim. The F-11 has a 50% offset as does the Desperado, I think Proline calls it 1/2 offset so that's what you'd want to go with. I think someone noted the Duratrax rims and tires here earlier, which also come in 50% offset flavors. I like the Duratrax Hatchet MT tire, I want to get a set of those some day to try out. Higher offset than 50% is rare these days, but can still be found sometimes. Examples of 80% offset would be Tamiya Clodbuster rims, and Ofna Monster Pirate, Monster Titan, and Dominator rims. Those are kind of pricey and heavy as hell though, and the Ofna ones are the only ones that are 17mm.
3.8" is the diameter of the rim without the tire on it. It is basically the modern standard 1/8 scale Monster truck rim size. All Traxxas 1/8 scale rims, HPI Savage 4.6 rims, the stock Mad Force rims, and the aftermarket 1/8 scale MT rim sizes are 3.8". The width may vary slightly, but most all tires made for a 3.8" rim will mount on one as long as the bead style is the same. There is standard bead, and Traxxas style bead. Proline uses the Traxxas bead mostly, which most people prefer over the standard style as they seem to come off the rim less often. I'm not positive, but I think standard bead 3.8" tires would work with the stock Mad Force bead lock rims.
For my break in I used the standard heat cycle method. I fired the truck up, ran it until it ran out of fuel while monitoring my temps closely, and let it cool about 10-15 minutes with the piston at bottom dead center. I drove mine around in the grass and on pavement just like I would normally do, just kept my throttle input smooth and at less than 1/2 throttle. For the first 2 or 3 tanks I went really easy on it, ran at about 1/4 throttle on level ground, driving in large circles and varying my throttle often. The silver limiter does stop you from going full throttle, though so you don't really have to worry about that part as much. I even did some hill climbing after the 5th tank, I'm never afraid to run the truck normally after a few tanks are through it. I repeated that process through 8 tanks. After the eighth tank I removed the silver intake limiter and put the blue on in, and tuned it a little. It's not quite tuned in fully yet, but I did lean it out a bit from stock after break in. I usually go 8-10 tanks for break in on pretty much any engine. If the truck runs well and runs through the full tanks with little to no stalling out 8 tanks is just fine. I run more if I have a few tanks where it didn't get up to temp as long due to stalling out or something. During break in I didn't touch the needles at all, I just used my throttle trim to set my idle up a little so it would run without stalling and started easier. I've used that exact method for years and it works quite well. The most important things are to make sure you keep the throttle input smooth and vary it often and keep it at 1/2 throttle or lower. Monitor your temps closely and make sure the engine cools enough (To about 70 degrees or so) between runs at bottom dead center. To measure bottom dead center, take out your glow plug and rotate the flywheel with your finger while watching the piston through the plug hole. When it bottoms out in there stop and mark the top of your flywheel with a paint marker or a scribe. This is necessary for good sleeve wear in during the cooling cycle. I like to leave my engines at bottom dead center all the time when they're sitting even after break in anyways so that mark comes in handy later on. The most important thing to remember is to wait for the engine to fully cool between runs, this will help the metals wear into each other better. If you're using a fuel with lower than 10% oil I add some castor oil to it for break in as well. I broke my KE25 in on 30% nitro with 10% oil and it worked fine.
Most importantly have fun with your new ride, I know I am!! This is by far the most fun truck I've ever driven.
I hope I did the KE25 break-in correctly. This is what I did: First 2 tanks at idle with 10 minute break in between (engine temps were around 210). 3rd tank, removed blue sleeve and installed silver sleeve, per the manual and began driving around in circles with short 1/4 throttle bursts (no tuning yet).
4th tank I did 1/2 throttle bursts with no tuning. 5th tank I did 3/4 throttle bursts with no tuning. 6th tank I did full throttle and starting tuning.
Now for the problems
High-speed is tuned but for some reason the idle is not consistent. I also have an issue with the pipe spitting out alot of fuel. At first, after tuning, I had an issue keeping the engine running without it stalling out. So what I did was I adjusted the idle and went about 2 full turns clockwise. Now the engine doesnt stall but still spits out fuel out of the muffler. I also adjusted the low end to have better take-off speed. Idle still inconsistent and fuel spits out of the muffler. Another issue I am also having is that when I drive the car, it seems to idle really high, then after about 30 or so seconds, the idle goes back to normal. An example is if I am doing full throttle in a straight line and then go to neutral, the car will roll with high idle and after 30 seconds sounds calm again. I also have an issue with the damn pull start getting stuck! When it gets stuck, I have to loosen the 3 screws and the pull start coils itself back in. The highest temp my engine was 270 degrees. This was after a 30 minute bash at a construction site. Per the manual though, it says not to let the temp exceed 140 C (284 F).
Other than that the mad force kruiser 2.0 is awesome ride and is very durable. Had a few crashes already and nothing has broke. I did a lose a screw and luckily I had an extra one from another kyosho. Funny thing too is that I didnt check or loctite any screws before break-in or first bash session. This car is solid and I ordered all these extra parts and probably wont even use any of it
.Please kindly help me with my engine issues. Took me an hour to get it going the day I went bashing. Do you think I need to adjust my low-speed and idle? When you lean out the low-speed is the idle suppose to increase? Meaning...if I lean out the low-speed do I need to open up the idle to balance it out? Also, what can I do about the pull start getting stuck? The pull start doesn't always get stuck but when it does its a pain in the ass.
Please help! Thanks!
04-29-2015, 04:05 PM
#50
Here is how I set my needles:
HSN - mainly by temperature, to be less than 130-140 celsius, ideal around 120
LSN - pinch the fuel tube next to the carburetor and listen to the motor: it should die after 4-5 seconds after a slightly increase in rpm. More than 5 sec, too rich, less than 3-4 sec, too lean. However, mine like to runs on the lean side. Another way to check: let the engine runs at idle for 20 sec and go to full throttle: if any hesitation and a lot of smoke, too rich. If it goes like crazy and no smoke, too lean. If it dies after 30 sec or more, it also mean that LSN is too rich (the engine is flooded).
You also have to check the opening on the carburetor on idle, shouldn't be more than 1 mm. If it's more than that and the idle seems to be right it means it's to rich on the LSN. Also it would be pretty hard to start the engine and even maybe to shut down immediately after you remove the starter
Overall, I would say your engine is too rich on the LSN (two complete turns in from factory settings - WAY too rich) and maybe too lean on the HSN (140 degrees celsius). Not sure, though, the spitting can be caused both by LSN and HSN being too rich
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EizVUHLB1g
HSN - mainly by temperature, to be less than 130-140 celsius, ideal around 120
LSN - pinch the fuel tube next to the carburetor and listen to the motor: it should die after 4-5 seconds after a slightly increase in rpm. More than 5 sec, too rich, less than 3-4 sec, too lean. However, mine like to runs on the lean side. Another way to check: let the engine runs at idle for 20 sec and go to full throttle: if any hesitation and a lot of smoke, too rich. If it goes like crazy and no smoke, too lean. If it dies after 30 sec or more, it also mean that LSN is too rich (the engine is flooded).
You also have to check the opening on the carburetor on idle, shouldn't be more than 1 mm. If it's more than that and the idle seems to be right it means it's to rich on the LSN. Also it would be pretty hard to start the engine and even maybe to shut down immediately after you remove the starter
Overall, I would say your engine is too rich on the LSN (two complete turns in from factory settings - WAY too rich) and maybe too lean on the HSN (140 degrees celsius). Not sure, though, the spitting can be caused both by LSN and HSN being too rich
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EizVUHLB1g
Last edited by Tzicul; 04-29-2015 at 04:24 PM.
04-29-2015, 10:24 PM
#51
Make sure your idle gap is no more than 1mm. The key to tuning IMO is finding the right balance between the LSN and the idle gap. The HSN is easy... Anyway, if you lean the LSN and idle goes up, you can reduce the idle with the idle screw. Conversely, if your idle is too high, you might need to richen the LSN. And so on.. But the gap itself needs to be really small(take off filter and look..)
Also, just keep in mind, a perfect neverending idle is a rare thing. Blip the throttle every few seconds as necessary to keep it running.. I think sometimes people tune for a good idle instead of good performance. The point is not to idle.. Though yes a good stable idle is nice. Anyway, blip it!
Temps IMO are not that important if you can see smoke and it performs and sounds right...
Also, just keep in mind, a perfect neverending idle is a rare thing. Blip the throttle every few seconds as necessary to keep it running.. I think sometimes people tune for a good idle instead of good performance. The point is not to idle.. Though yes a good stable idle is nice. Anyway, blip it!
Temps IMO are not that important if you can see smoke and it performs and sounds right...
04-30-2015, 12:05 AM
#52
You did the old school break in method, idling the first few tanks on a bench. That works just fine, most people these days will just drive through all the break in tanks, I always do. Your temps at 210 degrees are perfect for break in.
Which insert are your running right now? The silver one is for break in only, and the blue one is for running after break in. The silver one acts as a restrictor plate if you're familiar with Nascar cars. Basically it just limits the amount of air your engine can breathe in thus making it run richer and limiting your throttle at the same time. You should have the blue one in now that you're done with break in and you should tune with that in.
As the other guys said, Adjusting your low and idle is the first thing you should get right, then do the high end with some full throttle test runs. The idle gap at about 1mm like Herrsavage said, and then use the pinch test for the low end. If the truck won't run with the idle gap at 1mm, just use the throttle trim to temporarily bump it up a bit. Once you get closer on the low end, zero the trim and pinch test it until it's right with the proper gap. Once that crap is outta the way it's smooth sailing as the high end is pretty easy to tune in. After that you shouldn't have to mess with the low end much if at all and only high end tuning for drastic temp changes is necessary. I agree too with Herrsavage on engine temps. Once the truck is broken in I only test the temp if I think it's running way too hot. I've really only needed to do that with Traxxas RTR engines, though.
Mine is still a bit rich on the low end, but it starts in 1 or 2 pulls every time so it's pretty close. It will probably take several tries to get it right, it did for mine anyways. If you want some assistance there are a lot of videos on youtube showing how the pinch test should sound. A guy called squirrel did a really good 8 or 9 part tuning video series a few years ago that should still be up there. In it he shows how the engine should and shouldn't run from high and low end tweaks.
Glad to hear you're liking the truck! I love mine as well, it is a lot of fun! I've been running it instead of my T Maxx lately. Mine did break a few days ago after a run away. They still happen apparently lol. Mine happened when my receiver pack wire unplugged from the switch after a front flip, the receiver lost power of course, and the truck ran half steam in second gear into a brick wall. I guess return springs don't fully return the throttle after an abrupt loss in power. The front axle hit the wall right at the corner, so no tire to take some force away! All that broke was the left suspension arm, and the center front shaft bent. All said and done $20 fixed it, I'm surprised that's all that broke. Lesson learned, now my receiver pack and receiver are held in the box with servo tape and the plug is tucked between them with some foam padding.
Which insert are your running right now? The silver one is for break in only, and the blue one is for running after break in. The silver one acts as a restrictor plate if you're familiar with Nascar cars. Basically it just limits the amount of air your engine can breathe in thus making it run richer and limiting your throttle at the same time. You should have the blue one in now that you're done with break in and you should tune with that in.
As the other guys said, Adjusting your low and idle is the first thing you should get right, then do the high end with some full throttle test runs. The idle gap at about 1mm like Herrsavage said, and then use the pinch test for the low end. If the truck won't run with the idle gap at 1mm, just use the throttle trim to temporarily bump it up a bit. Once you get closer on the low end, zero the trim and pinch test it until it's right with the proper gap. Once that crap is outta the way it's smooth sailing as the high end is pretty easy to tune in. After that you shouldn't have to mess with the low end much if at all and only high end tuning for drastic temp changes is necessary. I agree too with Herrsavage on engine temps. Once the truck is broken in I only test the temp if I think it's running way too hot. I've really only needed to do that with Traxxas RTR engines, though.
Mine is still a bit rich on the low end, but it starts in 1 or 2 pulls every time so it's pretty close. It will probably take several tries to get it right, it did for mine anyways. If you want some assistance there are a lot of videos on youtube showing how the pinch test should sound. A guy called squirrel did a really good 8 or 9 part tuning video series a few years ago that should still be up there. In it he shows how the engine should and shouldn't run from high and low end tweaks.
Glad to hear you're liking the truck! I love mine as well, it is a lot of fun! I've been running it instead of my T Maxx lately. Mine did break a few days ago after a run away. They still happen apparently lol. Mine happened when my receiver pack wire unplugged from the switch after a front flip, the receiver lost power of course, and the truck ran half steam in second gear into a brick wall. I guess return springs don't fully return the throttle after an abrupt loss in power. The front axle hit the wall right at the corner, so no tire to take some force away! All that broke was the left suspension arm, and the center front shaft bent. All said and done $20 fixed it, I'm surprised that's all that broke. Lesson learned, now my receiver pack and receiver are held in the box with servo tape and the plug is tucked between them with some foam padding.
05-18-2015, 08:08 PM
#53
I been building and bashing over 20 years and i would have to say the by far my favorite 1/8 monster truck is the Kyosho Mad Force NITRO. Its Fast, Solid Axle, Wheelie Machine, its a blast to drive and i have 10 times more enjoyment running my mad forces over my tmaxxs and savages.
I have owned hundreds of RCs throughout the years. I equally like electric and nitro the same BUT when it comes to monster trucks, I always go Nitro (unless i live in area that complains about noise). Nitro gives much more characteristic and excitement to the trucks VS electric. But thats only my opinion.
I have owned hundreds of RCs throughout the years. I equally like electric and nitro the same BUT when it comes to monster trucks, I always go Nitro (unless i live in area that complains about noise). Nitro gives much more characteristic and excitement to the trucks VS electric. But thats only my opinion.
05-21-2015, 02:16 PM
#54
I am sooooooooo glad I listened to you guys about getting the Mad Force Kruiser 2.0 ! It is the best RC I have ever had .... hands down. I have not broke one single thing yet! This MT is amazing. I'm still having tuning issues but I'm getting close . This car is fast, has alot of power and most importantly...very SOLID! Most durable RC I have ever had. Damn thing just wont break? I bashed at my favorite construction site the other day and the mad force literally fell off of a 30 foot cliff -NO LIES! Did not break a thing....well...body cracked but so what! I absolutely love this thing. Love it so much I bought another one (used though on ebay) to keep in my car LOL. Also have the electric version coming in the mail soon. Like I mentioned earlier, I purchased all these extra parts for it that I thought would break...have yet to use one...well...only 1 screw but that was my fault. I've had many RCs in the past and this is my favorite one too. I'm glad I didn't get the Savage! Savage is good but I like to play more then fix.
I have a question!!! For the LSN setting - I did the pinch test and the engine dies after 5-6 seconds. It will idle high then die. Am I too rich still on the LSN? When I set my idle at 1mm -engine idles wayyy to high and overheats quick! What is the general rule as far as LSN adjustment? If I go more lean does this mean that the idle has to be opened more? Car seems to want to idle higher when the LSN is more lean -is this normal? Also, my muffler still spits out alot of fuel..not sure if this is normal or if its residual fuel thats left in the muffler. It doesnt spit out alot of fuel...more like little drops. Wife is upset because our driveway and garage is riddled with little trails of nitro fuel HAHA! I probably shouldn't have laughed when she slipped. I ended up cleaning it because my kids play in there too and dont want them to slip. Its ok if my wife slips though. Other than that the car seems to have a descent tune. Thanks!!!
We need to start a Mad Force Kruiser Fan club! Thanks again guys for the recommendation on the Mad Force Kruiser 2.0. I am very happy with the car.
. This car is fast, has alot of power and most importantly...very SOLID! Most durable RC I have ever had. Damn thing just wont break? I bashed at my favorite construction site the other day and the mad force literally fell off of a 30 foot cliff -NO LIES! Did not break a thing....well...body cracked but so what! I absolutely love this thing. Love it so much I bought another one (used though on ebay) to keep in my car LOL. Also have the electric version coming in the mail soon. Like I mentioned earlier, I purchased all these extra parts for it that I thought would break...have yet to use one...well...only 1 screw but that was my fault. I've had many RCs in the past and this is my favorite one too. I'm glad I didn't get the Savage! Savage is good but I like to play more then fix.I have a question!!! For the LSN setting - I did the pinch test and the engine dies after 5-6 seconds. It will idle high then die. Am I too rich still on the LSN? When I set my idle at 1mm -engine idles wayyy to high and overheats quick! What is the general rule as far as LSN adjustment? If I go more lean does this mean that the idle has to be opened more? Car seems to want to idle higher when the LSN is more lean -is this normal? Also, my muffler still spits out alot of fuel..not sure if this is normal or if its residual fuel thats left in the muffler. It doesnt spit out alot of fuel...more like little drops. Wife is upset because our driveway and garage is riddled with little trails of nitro fuel HAHA! I probably shouldn't have laughed when she slipped. I ended up cleaning it because my kids play in there too and dont want them to slip. Its ok if my wife slips though. Other than that the car seems to have a descent tune. Thanks!!!
We need to start a Mad Force Kruiser Fan club! Thanks again guys for the recommendation on the Mad Force Kruiser 2.0.
I am very happy with the car.
05-21-2015, 02:40 PM
#55
My .21 engine likes to run a little bit lean on LSN. Did you try running the engine at idle for 30 seconds and then go full throttle?
Last edited by Tzicul; 05-21-2015 at 02:53 PM.
05-21-2015, 03:45 PM
#56
05-21-2015, 07:27 PM
#57
Mine also runs a bit on the lean side for the low end. For the low end I set my idle gap at about 1mm then tuned the low end. I only turned it maybe 3/16 turn or so leaner from factory and it seems good there. At a .5mm to 1mm idle gap it should idle well. If your gap is good and it's idling too high richen it a hair. If the gap is more open, the low end would have to be richer and more closed it will run leaner. It should spit a little fuel when it's cold, but when it hits running temp it should be pretty clean, that's another way to tell how good your low end is. Power output should feel snappy on the low end like pulling wheelies and such, if it's kind of boggy and hesitates it's too rich. Once I got mine set it's hard to keep the front end down It will flip right over backwards onto it's top if the ground is grippy enough.
For the 30 second test the guys are talking about, you get the truck warmed up first. Do a few high speed passes, then stop the truck in front of you and let it idle for 20-30 seconds. After the time has passed gun it to at least half throttle or full if it will without flipping, try to avoid a wheelie of course It should take right off with a nice puff of smoke with very little to no hesitation. If it smokes heavily but still takes off well it's a bit rich but very close and will be fine. If it bogs and blows a lot of smoke, too rich. If no smoke it's too lean. Do your adjustments very gradually like 1/16 turns at a time, the low end usually doesn't have to move much to make big differences.
I agree, these trucks need their own page and a fan club! My custom T Maxx is much faster than my Mad Force and handles better, but still I drive the Mad Force much more often. Even with all the money I stuck into that Maxx it's less reliable than the Mad Force is too. Great truck, that's for sure!
It will flip right over backwards onto it's top if the ground is grippy enough.For the 30 second test the guys are talking about, you get the truck warmed up first. Do a few high speed passes, then stop the truck in front of you and let it idle for 20-30 seconds. After the time has passed gun it to at least half throttle or full if it will without flipping, try to avoid a wheelie of course
It should take right off with a nice puff of smoke with very little to no hesitation. If it smokes heavily but still takes off well it's a bit rich but very close and will be fine. If it bogs and blows a lot of smoke, too rich. If no smoke it's too lean. Do your adjustments very gradually like 1/16 turns at a time, the low end usually doesn't have to move much to make big differences.I agree, these trucks need their own page and a fan club! My custom T Maxx is much faster than my Mad Force and handles better, but still I drive the Mad Force much more often. Even with all the money I stuck into that Maxx it's less reliable than the Mad Force is too. Great truck, that's for sure!
05-22-2015, 09:11 AM
#58
Mine also runs a bit on the lean side for the low end. For the low end I set my idle gap at about 1mm then tuned the low end. I only turned it maybe 3/16 turn or so leaner from factory and it seems good there. At a .5mm to 1mm idle gap it should idle well. If your gap is good and it's idling too high richen it a hair. If the gap is more open, the low end would have to be richer and more closed it will run leaner. It should spit a little fuel when it's cold, but when it hits running temp it should be pretty clean, that's another way to tell how good your low end is. Power output should feel snappy on the low end like pulling wheelies and such, if it's kind of boggy and hesitates it's too rich. Once I got mine set it's hard to keep the front end down It will flip right over backwards onto it's top if the ground is grippy enough.
For the 30 second test the guys are talking about, you get the truck warmed up first. Do a few high speed passes, then stop the truck in front of you and let it idle for 20-30 seconds. After the time has passed gun it to at least half throttle or full if it will without flipping, try to avoid a wheelie of course It should take right off with a nice puff of smoke with very little to no hesitation. If it smokes heavily but still takes off well it's a bit rich but very close and will be fine. If it bogs and blows a lot of smoke, too rich. If no smoke it's too lean. Do your adjustments very gradually like 1/16 turns at a time, the low end usually doesn't have to move much to make big differences.
I agree, these trucks need their own page and a fan club! My custom T Maxx is much faster than my Mad Force and handles better, but still I drive the Mad Force much more often. Even with all the money I stuck into that Maxx it's less reliable than the Mad Force is too. Great truck, that's for sure!
It will flip right over backwards onto it's top if the ground is grippy enough.For the 30 second test the guys are talking about, you get the truck warmed up first. Do a few high speed passes, then stop the truck in front of you and let it idle for 20-30 seconds. After the time has passed gun it to at least half throttle or full if it will without flipping, try to avoid a wheelie of course
It should take right off with a nice puff of smoke with very little to no hesitation. If it smokes heavily but still takes off well it's a bit rich but very close and will be fine. If it bogs and blows a lot of smoke, too rich. If no smoke it's too lean. Do your adjustments very gradually like 1/16 turns at a time, the low end usually doesn't have to move much to make big differences.I agree, these trucks need their own page and a fan club! My custom T Maxx is much faster than my Mad Force and handles better, but still I drive the Mad Force much more often. Even with all the money I stuck into that Maxx it's less reliable than the Mad Force is too. Great truck, that's for sure!
Forgot to ask. Is it difficult to start the engine when its cold outside? I got a good bicep workout the other day from pulling the pull start over a hundred times before she finally fired up. Is this normal? What's a good technique to get it start easily on a somewhat cold day? Thanks!
05-22-2015, 02:13 PM
#59
If you have both the smoke and the flip over I would say you are spot on with LSN. Enough fuel but not too rich, enough air but not too lean And if you still see "fuel" spited on the exhaust it's ok, because it's not really fuel, but oil. Most of the oil from the mixture it is supposed to go out after completing its mission, to lubricate and cool down the motor. If the oil is burned, you have a big problem since it's burning point is way higher than a engine safe point (not very sure, but around 150C for synthetic and over 200C for castor). That's way most of the manufactures still use a combination of both oils. Synthetic has better lubrication characteristics and castor a higher burning point.
The other question: yes, leaner the LSN, higher the idle. If it's too lean and/or the idle is too high you'll have a runaway truck, since the clutch will engage because of the high rpms. Best idle is in the middle between a dying engine and a runaway truck. Hope I made myself clear enough since my native language is not English. Maybe someone who knows what I'm talking about can explain better in "plain english"
And if you still see "fuel" spited on the exhaust it's ok, because it's not really fuel, but oil. Most of the oil from the mixture it is supposed to go out after completing its mission, to lubricate and cool down the motor. If the oil is burned, you have a big problem since it's burning point is way higher than a engine safe point (not very sure, but around 150C for synthetic and over 200C for castor). That's way most of the manufactures still use a combination of both oils. Synthetic has better lubrication characteristics and castor a higher burning point. The other question: yes, leaner the LSN, higher the idle. If it's too lean and/or the idle is too high you'll have a runaway truck, since the clutch will engage because of the high rpms. Best idle is in the middle between a dying engine and a runaway truck. Hope I made myself clear enough since my native language is not English. Maybe someone who knows what I'm talking about can explain better in "plain english"
05-22-2015, 02:23 PM
#60
LE
It is impossible to start a nitro engine below 5-10C, maybe even higher. You are suppose to preheat it and you have various methods, anything between your car's hot/warm air from the fan and a gas (not gasoline, I mean) burning torch. I'm using a small torch and it is absolutely perfect. You only have to heat it up to the point when you feel the head pretty hot and you can barley keep your hand on it. And, of course, you can buy the battery powerd heater dedicated to this operation, you can find it on www https://www.google.ro/search?q=nitro...w=1376&bih=714
It is impossible to start a nitro engine below 5-10C, maybe even higher. You are suppose to preheat it and you have various methods, anything between your car's hot/warm air from the fan and a gas (not gasoline, I mean) burning torch. I'm using a small torch and it is absolutely perfect. You only have to heat it up to the point when you feel the head pretty hot and you can barley keep your hand on it. And, of course, you can buy the battery powerd heater dedicated to this operation, you can find it on www https://www.google.ro/search?q=nitro...w=1376&bih=714