Tekno ET48 Build - TP 4070
#1
Tekno ET48 Build - TP 4070
Current configuration
Motor - Poseidon 1527, 43x106mm, 1500kv, 5mm shaft, 660g
Motor Cooling - Yeah Racing heat sink & twin 30mm fans
ESC - Castle Mamba Monster Extreme with extra capacitors
Battery - Turnigy Graphene 6S 5000mah 65C
Connectors - Castle 6.5mm bullets
Pinion - Tekno 25T
Spur - Agama 43T
Center Diff - Losi Heavy Duty case with metal inserts
Diff Oil - 10F/100C/5R
Tires - Proline Badlands, belted with 50 lb. fishing line braid
Anti-Wheelie - T-Bone Racing wheelie bar, flattened
The complete weight of this truggy with battery is 10.25 lbs. I have it geared at 75 mph for off-road use.
Poseidon 1527 - Grass Destroyer
Poseidon 1527 - Wheelies
TP 4070 - On board with GPS telemetry
BMX Track on 6S
MX Track on 6S
MillCreek Motocross Park
Mobile Bay RC Track
I just picked up a lightly used Tekno ET48 roller from a Team Tekno driver. This is my first 1/8 truggy and this will be a 2015 project. If anyone has any suggestions on big power setups, let me know.
This kit looks very beefy.
- 4mm CNC 7075 aluminum hard anodized lightened chassis
- 6mm front, 5mm rear CNC 7075 aluminum shock towers
- CNC hardened steel straight cut differential ring and pinion gears
- 2-piece CNC aluminum motor mount with precise dual clamping gear mesh adjustment
- Straight center driveline for maximum efficiency
- 16mm big bore shocks w/4mm shafts
- 14mm thick suspension arms
Motor
I was looking for one of the most powerful 40mm motors. Dr T has had great results backed up with data with his TP 4070 powered Losi 8ight T. Since this motor is so long, the ESC won't be going in the normal location. I have a smaller TP 2940 in another car and it has performed extremely well.
TP 4070
40x102mm, 1440kv, 3Y, 32V Max, 230A Max, 8mm Shaft, 7500W Max Power
Pinions
I originally ordered a Kershaw Designs 8mm Bore Mod 1 pinion gear. I wasn't sure how big it was going to be and found out that it's too large to fit through the motor mount. I then ordered a 3-Pack of the Novak 5mm Bore Mod 1 pinion gears (21,22,23T). So now I need to reduce the shaft from 8mm to 5mm with a dremel. I've done it before on other motors easily, going from 4mm to 3.17mm, but I'll be taking extra care and time with this one as the motor is a bit more expensive.
ESC
I'm going with the Castle Creations Mamba Monster Extreme ESC with extra capacitors, from the Traxxas XO-1. If it's good enough for the Castle 1717 motor and 100 mph out of the box, it should be good enough for me. I'll be placing this behind the motor where the receiver box is supposed to go. It looks like the ESC will fit good right there and the caps will overhang some. I'll be making an ESC plate for it to sit on.
Servo
It came with a Hitec HS-7954SH servo. Looks like a nice servo to me.
Battery
I'm going with a Turnigy Nano-Tech 6S 5000mah 65/130C battery. This battery should provide up to 325 amps (on paper), so it should be able to feed the 230 amp motor. I had to modify the battery tray in 3 places to get this thing to fit. Dimensions are 153x49x55mm and weight is 846g.
Wheels & Tires
I'm going with the Proline Desperado 3.8" wheels and Proline Badlands Tires (5.85" height). I really want to eliminate tire ballooning. I've always used gorilla tape with good results. I've heard of another method using drywall tape and rubber cement that was said to work better. I want to avoid the fish line method. I'll also be using Bob Smith Industries IC-2000 Black Rubber Toughened CA glue. I've heard really good reviews on it over regular CA glue. Anyone have any suggestions?
Oil
I've got some Kyosho 300,000 weight oil that I'm going to try in the center diff. The front diff came with 10k and the rear diff came with 7k. Anyone have any suggestions?
Connectors & Wiring
I'm going with the Castle Creations 6.5mm bullets & connectors, and 8awg wire to go from the motor to ESC.
Motor - Poseidon 1527, 43x106mm, 1500kv, 5mm shaft, 660g
Motor Cooling - Yeah Racing heat sink & twin 30mm fans
ESC - Castle Mamba Monster Extreme with extra capacitors
Battery - Turnigy Graphene 6S 5000mah 65C
Connectors - Castle 6.5mm bullets
Pinion - Tekno 25T
Spur - Agama 43T
Center Diff - Losi Heavy Duty case with metal inserts
Diff Oil - 10F/100C/5R
Tires - Proline Badlands, belted with 50 lb. fishing line braid
Anti-Wheelie - T-Bone Racing wheelie bar, flattened
The complete weight of this truggy with battery is 10.25 lbs. I have it geared at 75 mph for off-road use.
Poseidon 1527 - Grass Destroyer
+ YouTube Video | |
Poseidon 1527 - Wheelies
+ YouTube Video | |
TP 4070 - On board with GPS telemetry
+ YouTube Video | |
BMX Track on 6S
+ YouTube Video | |
MX Track on 6S
+ YouTube Video | |
MillCreek Motocross Park
+ YouTube Video | |
Mobile Bay RC Track
+ YouTube Video | |
I just picked up a lightly used Tekno ET48 roller from a Team Tekno driver. This is my first 1/8 truggy and this will be a 2015 project. If anyone has any suggestions on big power setups, let me know.
This kit looks very beefy.
- 4mm CNC 7075 aluminum hard anodized lightened chassis
- 6mm front, 5mm rear CNC 7075 aluminum shock towers
- CNC hardened steel straight cut differential ring and pinion gears
- 2-piece CNC aluminum motor mount with precise dual clamping gear mesh adjustment
- Straight center driveline for maximum efficiency
- 16mm big bore shocks w/4mm shafts
- 14mm thick suspension arms
Motor
I was looking for one of the most powerful 40mm motors. Dr T has had great results backed up with data with his TP 4070 powered Losi 8ight T. Since this motor is so long, the ESC won't be going in the normal location. I have a smaller TP 2940 in another car and it has performed extremely well.
TP 4070
40x102mm, 1440kv, 3Y, 32V Max, 230A Max, 8mm Shaft, 7500W Max Power
Pinions
I originally ordered a Kershaw Designs 8mm Bore Mod 1 pinion gear. I wasn't sure how big it was going to be and found out that it's too large to fit through the motor mount. I then ordered a 3-Pack of the Novak 5mm Bore Mod 1 pinion gears (21,22,23T). So now I need to reduce the shaft from 8mm to 5mm with a dremel. I've done it before on other motors easily, going from 4mm to 3.17mm, but I'll be taking extra care and time with this one as the motor is a bit more expensive.
ESC
I'm going with the Castle Creations Mamba Monster Extreme ESC with extra capacitors, from the Traxxas XO-1. If it's good enough for the Castle 1717 motor and 100 mph out of the box, it should be good enough for me. I'll be placing this behind the motor where the receiver box is supposed to go. It looks like the ESC will fit good right there and the caps will overhang some. I'll be making an ESC plate for it to sit on.
Servo
It came with a Hitec HS-7954SH servo. Looks like a nice servo to me.
Battery
I'm going with a Turnigy Nano-Tech 6S 5000mah 65/130C battery. This battery should provide up to 325 amps (on paper), so it should be able to feed the 230 amp motor. I had to modify the battery tray in 3 places to get this thing to fit. Dimensions are 153x49x55mm and weight is 846g.
Wheels & Tires
I'm going with the Proline Desperado 3.8" wheels and Proline Badlands Tires (5.85" height). I really want to eliminate tire ballooning. I've always used gorilla tape with good results. I've heard of another method using drywall tape and rubber cement that was said to work better. I want to avoid the fish line method. I'll also be using Bob Smith Industries IC-2000 Black Rubber Toughened CA glue. I've heard really good reviews on it over regular CA glue. Anyone have any suggestions?
Oil
I've got some Kyosho 300,000 weight oil that I'm going to try in the center diff. The front diff came with 10k and the rear diff came with 7k. Anyone have any suggestions?
Connectors & Wiring
I'm going with the Castle Creations 6.5mm bullets & connectors, and 8awg wire to go from the motor to ESC.
Last edited by 0verkill; 04-03-2018 at 12:17 PM.
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
Looks like a fun build. With that amount of power, you may want to carpet tape the wheels and foams, and I think that CA glue is a great choice. It just takes forever to set. So, be patient with that one. You might consider a thicker diff fluid for the front and rear, maybe 15kF all around.. Interested to see what you do with it!
#3
crazy
let us know how heavy is the whole thing
don't forget a fan to keep the motor cool, i just burnt a tork 2200kv on 6s in a buggy... i should have waited for the fans I ordered...
let us know how heavy is the whole thing
don't forget a fan to keep the motor cool, i just burnt a tork 2200kv on 6s in a buggy... i should have waited for the fans I ordered...
#5
Looks like a fun build. With that amount of power, you may want to carpet tape the wheels and foams, and I think that CA glue is a great choice. It just takes forever to set. So, be patient with that one. You might consider a thicker diff fluid for the front and rear, maybe 15kF all around.. Interested to see what you do with it!
That's the plan.
#6
The ID of the motor mount insert is 12.90mm and the OD of the KD 8mm bore pinion gear is 14.12mm. Just 1.22mm too big. I was looking through the Tekno parts and they have a lightened motor mount insert that looks like it may have a bigger opening through the middle or it could be opened up much easier to fit this larger pinion gear.
Last edited by 0verkill; 12-13-2014 at 11:10 AM.
#7
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
You may want to check when your motor comes in, but I don't recall if the pinion sits that low into the mount.
Cool project. As a tip, you may want to see about how your diffs are shimmed, with more power, you may want to shim them a bit tighter than what someone racing would do.
Also, may want the steel spur gear.
Cool project. As a tip, you may want to see about how your diffs are shimmed, with more power, you may want to shim them a bit tighter than what someone racing would do.
Also, may want the steel spur gear.
#8
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Not sure if you know this or not about the XO1 esc, but from the factory it is locked and you won't get full speed out of it. You need a Traxxas radio and the Traxxas app loaded on a device as part of the unlocking process. If you want to use another radio, after your done unlocking it with the Traxxasapp radio Castle Link Live must be disabled. All the ones I've seen in chop shops have not been unlocked at all.
The XO1 esc is just the latest (last) version of the MMM with a nicely mounted Cap Pack on it. Unless you have the necessary Traxxas radio and app already (or know someone) it seems like a hassle just to get the cap pack mount. It's well documented the MMM handles the 1717 just fine without it, including my In my LST XXL. Not discouraging running the XO1 esc, just making sure you don't find out the hard way.
The XO1 esc is just the latest (last) version of the MMM with a nicely mounted Cap Pack on it. Unless you have the necessary Traxxas radio and app already (or know someone) it seems like a hassle just to get the cap pack mount. It's well documented the MMM handles the 1717 just fine without it, including my In my LST XXL. Not discouraging running the XO1 esc, just making sure you don't find out the hard way.
#9
You may want to check when your motor comes in, but I don't recall if the pinion sits that low into the mount.
Cool project. As a tip, you may want to see about how your diffs are shimmed, with more power, you may want to shim them a bit tighter than what someone racing would do.
Also, may want the steel spur gear.
Cool project. As a tip, you may want to see about how your diffs are shimmed, with more power, you may want to shim them a bit tighter than what someone racing would do.
Also, may want the steel spur gear.
Not sure if you know this or not about the XO1 esc, but from the factory it is locked and you won't get full speed out of it. You need a Traxxas radio and the Traxxas app loaded on a device as part of the unlocking process. If you want to use another radio, after your done unlocking it with the Traxxasapp radio Castle Link Live must be disabled. All the ones I've seen in chop shops have not been unlocked at all.
The XO1 esc is just the latest (last) version of the MMM with a nicely mounted Cap Pack on it. Unless you have the necessary Traxxas radio and app already (or know someone) it seems like a hassle just to get the cap pack mount. It's well documented the MMM handles the 1717 just fine without it, including my In my LST XXL. Not discouraging running the XO1 esc, just making sure you don't find out the hard way.
The XO1 esc is just the latest (last) version of the MMM with a nicely mounted Cap Pack on it. Unless you have the necessary Traxxas radio and app already (or know someone) it seems like a hassle just to get the cap pack mount. It's well documented the MMM handles the 1717 just fine without it, including my In my LST XXL. Not discouraging running the XO1 esc, just making sure you don't find out the hard way.
#10
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Cool deal on the esc. Looks like she's going to be a monster! The 10/300/7 in the diffs should be pretty close for a basher. I run 15/100/10 in my 8ight-t 2.0 because I like a little bit of center diff action and find I can throw the truck around (sideways) a little easier when the rear has a slightly lower weight than the front.
#12
Tech Fanatic
#15
Awesome you'll be able to fit it 0verkill! I really like the ET48, but always assumed it was just too small for brute power set-ups, very cool you prove me wrong . This is gonna be fun!
FWIW, I run 20k/2000k/10k (F/C/R). Depending on how you use it, I'd expect the 300k CD is too light and will be running hot. Been thinking of upping my front and rear a bit (esp. the 10k rear, which is getting a bit leaky, which I suspect is because of the oil getting too hot) to something like 40k/20k (still "off-road-ish"), or 500k/40k (more "on-roadish"), but so far have been too lazy (I mean busy, obviously ) to get the diffs out.
Did you get the motor from the TP website? If so, then you can confirm whether the weight in their specs (think it's listed as 490 g or something, opposed to the ~586 g I got) is a typo or whether they changed something to the motor?
Or you just flash it with genuine Castle firmware, thanks to Lizard / Rodizio.
Edit:
Here, I'll throw in this pic about diff fluids from Bill de Long out of the Hudy set-up guide, maybe it's useful:
FWIW, I run 20k/2000k/10k (F/C/R). Depending on how you use it, I'd expect the 300k CD is too light and will be running hot. Been thinking of upping my front and rear a bit (esp. the 10k rear, which is getting a bit leaky, which I suspect is because of the oil getting too hot) to something like 40k/20k (still "off-road-ish"), or 500k/40k (more "on-roadish"), but so far have been too lazy (I mean busy, obviously ) to get the diffs out.
Did you get the motor from the TP website? If so, then you can confirm whether the weight in their specs (think it's listed as 490 g or something, opposed to the ~586 g I got) is a typo or whether they changed something to the motor?
Not sure if you know this or not about the XO1 esc, but from the factory it is locked and you won't get full speed out of it. You need a Traxxas radio and the Traxxas app loaded on a device as part of the unlocking process. If you want to use another radio, after your done unlocking it with the Traxxasapp radio Castle Link Live must be disabled. All the ones I've seen in chop shops have not been unlocked at all.
Edit:
Here, I'll throw in this pic about diff fluids from Bill de Long out of the Hudy set-up guide, maybe it's useful:
Last edited by Dr_T; 12-18-2014 at 03:47 PM.