What is the "2013" goto servo for LS2/XXL Single Servo mod ?
06-04-2013, 04:12 PM
#16
Uhh.. It make sense in that it is cheaper to buy four stock servos and have a couple spares on hand if one craps out, instead of buying one $100 servo and having no back-up. In a truggy or buggy a decent servo is more important IMO. In an MT, for bashing, I don't even think you notice the difference of a high-end servo that much...
As for strain, I'm not so sure about racing being all that harder on the steering servo(s) than bashing. Faster servos would make more sense.. Bashing for me means huge air, gravel pits, etc.. Most race tracks I've seen you don't get that much air... - and if you do, it's usually got a nice landing.. Bashing can mean lots of heavy bad landings at awkward angles, cartwheeling, etc., which also I would think strains the steering servos, especially with those big heavy wheels/tires.. Racing I think is maybe more strain in that when running on a track, you're normally just running longer and more intensively, so in that sense stuff gets more wear on it.. Bashing it's like back and forth, try a big air, repeat..
06-04-2013, 09:38 PM
#17
I agree about the constant use during racing. But in bashing a truck takes bigger hits(normally), and all the cartwheeling and bad landings are another kind of strain.. But yes you're right, all the constant turning in racing causes strain too...
As I said, cheap servos in my LST2's is just what I prefer given my circumstances. It depends what your priorities are, and what you're trying to do. Back in the day 2DMAX was big into racing, and I believe he fried 7955's, and he was running two. If you're racing (but who does that anymore really?), and have lighter tires on and all, then OK, better servos are a much higher priority. But if you're just into bashing and still running the ten-ton stock tires/wheels, well I anyway can live with the stock steering servos, and having a dirt cheap replacement or two on hand if one craps out(which I can order from jennys with other useful spares for cheap...) What I'm not as keen on is the stock throttle/brake servo... I have two LST2's, an RC8T, an RC8B, an SC8, a DM-1, and an MT4 G3*. That's 17 servos!... (Got two Savox 1258's and a couple stock XXL steering servos in reserve..)
What I actually think is a bigger issue than the performance is that the stock servos do die.. And it is a MASSIVE PIA to switch out a steering servo on a Losi MT IMO. But even then, I can live with the risk, when the backup servo costs 20 bucks. Out and in, done. No need to buy special servo savers, mod this, dremel that, whatever...
As Overdriven stated too, with a decent receiver battery they can be peppy enough.. And in any case, when cruising around a field or gravel pit or hitting a ramp, you don't really need the best servos..
Back in the day people used to ask this all the time - about switching to a single servo on steering, and I'm pretty sure the consensus was that it was a bad idea. If that has changed then cool, I'd be keen to hear more about it too. Might consider it next time one of mine dies... (I could put a Savox 1256 in it, if it'd hold up and have the power..)
* Random tip: that is too many RC's.. Too much to keep up with(servos for ex..) Unfortunately the resale scene is awful. I've tried to sell a few of them several times, each time reducing the price, and still no bites...
As I said, cheap servos in my LST2's is just what I prefer given my circumstances. It depends what your priorities are, and what you're trying to do. Back in the day 2DMAX was big into racing, and I believe he fried 7955's, and he was running two. If you're racing (but who does that anymore really?), and have lighter tires on and all, then OK, better servos are a much higher priority. But if you're just into bashing and still running the ten-ton stock tires/wheels, well I anyway can live with the stock steering servos, and having a dirt cheap replacement or two on hand if one craps out(which I can order from jennys with other useful spares for cheap...) What I'm not as keen on is the stock throttle/brake servo... I have two LST2's, an RC8T, an RC8B, an SC8, a DM-1, and an MT4 G3*. That's 17 servos!... (Got two Savox 1258's and a couple stock XXL steering servos in reserve..)
What I actually think is a bigger issue than the performance is that the stock servos do die.. And it is a MASSIVE PIA to switch out a steering servo on a Losi MT IMO. But even then, I can live with the risk, when the backup servo costs 20 bucks. Out and in, done. No need to buy special servo savers, mod this, dremel that, whatever...
As Overdriven stated too, with a decent receiver battery they can be peppy enough.. And in any case, when cruising around a field or gravel pit or hitting a ramp, you don't really need the best servos..
Back in the day people used to ask this all the time - about switching to a single servo on steering, and I'm pretty sure the consensus was that it was a bad idea. If that has changed then cool, I'd be keen to hear more about it too. Might consider it next time one of mine dies... (I could put a Savox 1256 in it, if it'd hold up and have the power..)
* Random tip: that is too many RC's.. Too much to keep up with(servos for ex..) Unfortunately the resale scene is awful. I've tried to sell a few of them several times, each time reducing the price, and still no bites...
06-04-2013, 11:26 PM
#18
Good info guys, thanks.. Im going to go the el-cheapo route to start.. I grabbed a BAC and gonna try the o-ring trick on the ol servo savers for awhile. I have also a set of smaller truggy tires that I am going to throw on with the 17mm hex conversion so that should help as well.
Does anyone know how to tell the difference between the "BAC" steering link and the stocker without tearing the front end apart to measure ? From pictures they both look chrome, and both have set-screw collars on them so I cant really tell the difference.
I would just grab one, since they are only $12, but overdriveRC wants another $12 to ship the damn thing
Does anyone know how to tell the difference between the "BAC" steering link and the stocker without tearing the front end apart to measure ? From pictures they both look chrome, and both have set-screw collars on them so I cant really tell the difference.
I would just grab one, since they are only $12, but overdriveRC wants another $12 to ship the damn thing
06-05-2013, 02:24 AM
#19
I bought a BAC link years ago but have never installed it.. I was going to rcently when I was in there to replace stuff due to slop, but it seemed like a hassle so I just put stock parts in.. Think it requires some dremmeling and fiddling..
06-05-2013, 06:38 AM
#20
Hmmm , I use a JR9100T as a single servo and all I did was disassemble a burnt up Z590 and gut it of everything but the mainshaft and bearings . Then installed it and hooked it up to the 9100 just like stock using the factory linkages and servo savers .
The gutted servo acts as a pivot point for the 9100T . Steering is quick and smooth and it makes a HUGE difference when running on high grip surfaces ....
The gutted servo acts as a pivot point for the 9100T . Steering is quick and smooth and it makes a HUGE difference when running on high grip surfaces ....
06-05-2013, 06:41 AM
#21
Does anyone know how to tell the difference between the "BAC" steering link and the stocker without tearing the front end apart to measure ? From pictures they both look chrome, and both have set-screw collars on them so I cant really tell the difference.
I would just grab one, since they are only $12, but overdriveRC wants another $12 to ship the damn thing
06-11-2013, 07:08 PM
#22
THe "single servo" mod in reality is stupid. Why would anyone want to potentially cut their torque in half? Bondonutz is a complete moron. Not even sure if he is alive still considering he is a walking heart attack waiting to happen..........thats what happens when you live in your dad's basement and steal all his food.........
06-11-2013, 07:15 PM
#23
Curious though......how exactly do 2 servo's "fight" each other when they run in tandem?
No 2 servos are exactly the same, but the variance between a good pair of servos is insignificant.
06-11-2013, 08:39 PM
#24
THe "single servo" mod in reality is stupid. Why would anyone want to potentially cut their torque in half? Bondonutz is a complete moron. Not even sure if he is alive still considering he is a walking heart attack waiting to happen..........thats what happens when you live in your dad's basement and steal all his food.........
Another point to consider is the function of a servo. Tx indicates a position of the servo in its rotation. Center is center, 45 degrees right is 45 degrees right. Doesn't matter if the servos are mismatched in speed or torque they both go to the same position. With a properly adjusted linkage they won't be fighting each other WHEN they reach that position. A stronger and/or faster servo will work harder to get to that position if it has to "help" a weaker/slower servo though. But the variance between two servos of the same make and spec will be insignificant. And 200oz plus 150oz still equals 350oz.
06-12-2013, 03:41 AM
#25
Anything not DEAD on is significant enough considering one would not need a dual set up when a quality servo can turn MT tires whilst standing still on concrete. Not to mention flex the saver at the same time if the end points are not adjusted. Plus getting chastised for suggesting someone spend $200 on a servo, let alone a "perfectly matched tandem servo set" for $400 that does not exist
06-12-2013, 02:17 PM
#26
Well, I guess your question is kind of contradicting. You agree there are no 2 servos that are the same (meaning exact transit times) but yet state the variance between servo speeds is/are insignificant.
Anything not DEAD on is significant enough considering one would not need a dual set up when a quality servo can turn MT tires whilst standing still on concrete. Not to mention flex the saver at the same time if the end points are not adjusted. Plus getting chastised for suggesting someone spend $200 on a servo, let alone a "perfectly matched tandem servo set" for $400 that does not exist
Anything not DEAD on is significant enough considering one would not need a dual set up when a quality servo can turn MT tires whilst standing still on concrete. Not to mention flex the saver at the same time if the end points are not adjusted. Plus getting chastised for suggesting someone spend $200 on a servo, let alone a "perfectly matched tandem servo set" for $400 that does not exist
And some of the top tier servos(Like Hitec)are programmable allowing you to fine tune and tweak them even further, including things like deadband/centering, curve, failsafes etc....
I run 4 Lst's, all run dual servos......none needed to be tweaked though with a programmer of any sort. Any good servo will have tight enough tolerances to run in tandem with 0 issues.
06-12-2013, 02:26 PM
#27
Wow dude. You not like the guy or you just that nice to everyone? Yeah Bondo is a large man, but I respect the things he's done in Rc, definitely not the work of a moron. Idk about his personal life, maybe he's a moron there. I think he disappeared to the crawler world and lives in a trailer or did judging by a video from a few years back. Anyway. Why is single servo a moron move? I've got a single servo with twice the combined torque of the stockers, more precise steering and I've hit large stationary objects at high speed with no ill effects. Haven't even broken the plastic servo horn. Unless you think I shouldve spent more and bought 2 servos, 2 MGT savers, etc. I've got 300 something ounces of torque (do you really need more in a 1-8 MT?) in one servo with less complications for less $, what more could you ask for?
I'm guessing Gotnitro thinks they'll always be fighting each other because many dual servo setups "buzz". Most of the time the buzzing is actually the servo trying to reach the position indicated on the Tx but the servo can't reach that position because of the resistance the tires provide. Lift the tires off the ground and a properly adjusted linkage won't make the servos buzz at any point in their travel. But if the linkage isn't adjusted right the servos will fight each other to reach their position whether the tires are off the ground or not.
Another point to consider is the function of a servo. Tx indicates a position of the servo in its rotation. Center is center, 45 degrees right is 45 degrees right. Doesn't matter if the servos are mismatched in speed or torque they both go to the same position. With a properly adjusted linkage they won't be fighting each other WHEN they reach that position. A stronger and/or faster servo will work harder to get to that position if it has to "help" a weaker/slower servo though. But the variance between two servos of the same make and spec will be insignificant. And 200oz plus 150oz still equals 350oz.
I'm guessing Gotnitro thinks they'll always be fighting each other because many dual servo setups "buzz". Most of the time the buzzing is actually the servo trying to reach the position indicated on the Tx but the servo can't reach that position because of the resistance the tires provide. Lift the tires off the ground and a properly adjusted linkage won't make the servos buzz at any point in their travel. But if the linkage isn't adjusted right the servos will fight each other to reach their position whether the tires are off the ground or not.
Another point to consider is the function of a servo. Tx indicates a position of the servo in its rotation. Center is center, 45 degrees right is 45 degrees right. Doesn't matter if the servos are mismatched in speed or torque they both go to the same position. With a properly adjusted linkage they won't be fighting each other WHEN they reach that position. A stronger and/or faster servo will work harder to get to that position if it has to "help" a weaker/slower servo though. But the variance between two servos of the same make and spec will be insignificant. And 200oz plus 150oz still equals 350oz.
But to the point. To me 300oz of torque on an LST is still on the weak side. In fact I believe thats now less than what they come with stock. I honestly will not do a steering setup on a MT of that size with anything less than 5-600oz of tq. Regardless of a single or dual servo setups.
Dual servos though give redundancy.......and actually cut the wear and tear down on each individual unit, so both share the load.
06-12-2013, 03:43 PM
#28
No 2 servos are 100% the same, but the differences in transit time/tq etc is so small and insignificant, that its a NON FACtor.
And some of the top tier servos(Like Hitec)are programmable allowing you to fine tune and tweak them even further, including things like deadband/centering, curve, failsafes etc....
I run 4 Lst's, all run dual servos......none needed to be tweaked though with a programmer of any sort. Any good servo will have tight enough tolerances to run in tandem with 0 issues.
And some of the top tier servos(Like Hitec)are programmable allowing you to fine tune and tweak them even further, including things like deadband/centering, curve, failsafes etc....
I run 4 Lst's, all run dual servos......none needed to be tweaked though with a programmer of any sort. Any good servo will have tight enough tolerances to run in tandem with 0 issues.
06-12-2013, 11:51 PM
#29
Tech Initiate
i was in same problem but i don't think so that Hitec HSR-5990TGis only solution therefore i am waiting still a cheap one......
06-13-2013, 05:20 AM
#30