savyguyhp

iTrader: (1)

Ok so today i just tryed a new softwear on my blur esc (1.24) on 4s lipo pretty hard i never really let go of throttle for about the whole lipo i checked the temps through out the run and my temps were reaching on my esc 146 n motor 110 then i charged my lipos back up and put another fan on top of my esc and ran it for about 10-15 because it was getting dark and my esc temp was 149 and motor 115 i might of ran it alot harder then befor but after i checked the temps they were going down pretty fast. But wat i want to know if these temps are safe id think on a bash id be running this hard also im usually going to run 6s for bashing . Stock gearing is used

Cinnabun

iTrader: (39)

Motor temps and esc temps sound way off. Motor should be around 150-160, and esc 100-110.

What kind of batteries? How hot were the batteries after running them?

savyguyhp

iTrader: (1)

Im running two dynimite 30c 7.4v and batterys wernt hot they were warm around 70-75 degrees to the touch yea idk whats going on cause my esc gets really warm/hot and motor is just warm

Cinnabun

iTrader: (39)

Sounds like the batteries may not be able to provide enough current for the esc. Are the battery wires and connectors getting hot as well?

savyguyhp

iTrader: (1)

Im not sure i might have to check on that next time i run it. Its going to be a awhile till i run though cause its going to rain all week also what do u mean that my lipos may not provide enough current to the esc,do u mean the c rating or just the brand? Ok lets say my battery wires and connecters dont get hot what do u think now the problem might be?

Cinnabun

iTrader: (39)

If the wires are getting hot, the batteries could not be able to provide enough c. A 30c of brand x and a 30c of brand y could vary, I really like my smc lipos, and my nanotechs are pretty decent also.

aqeel200

my experience in this:

Email conversation with Castle tech team if i remember it correctly.

ESC
1. On-board temp for the fan to turn on is default at 150F. (this is for sure)

2. Anything between 150F to 200F(or it may be 250F - but i believe it is more 200F) on board temp - its like anything can happen - it may burn the ESC or it may be minimally safe to continue to run it..its like you are running the ESC is a risky situation.

3. Anything above 200F - on board, the risk is too high - chances it may get burned.

note: this is on-board temp...meaning there is a small electronic chip/sensor resistor to detect the temp.

now: can we detect the temp of the onboard using a temp gun? I dont think so...we can only detect ambient temp - which is lower than the on-board temp set on the ESC.

so - if we use ambient temp using the temp gun pointing at the outside of the ESC casing - near the heat sink area - it reads 120F..the on board temp may read 140F - and we know this because the fan is not yet turned on (point 1).

if the temp gun reading is 130F, and we just notice that the fan of the ESC is just turned on..then we know that ambient temp using a temp gun at 130F means that the on-board temp is 150F with the fan just turned on.

best to avoid an operating environment of the mid-to upper 150F-200F as variation of climate, current weather, terrain will determine if it goes up even higher.

your temp of 145F on 4S, i presume is using a temp gun. chances are high that the on board temp is more than 150F and the fan is already running. its either you gear down a bit for 4S application or change to a better lipo that gives sufficient power - minimum 35C. if you are using 6S - it is even more critical that you gear down and have a better lipo.

putting an additional high powered fan on top of the casing do help.

Motor-ESC temp.
Agree with Cinn, under normal operations : ESC temp (onboard and ambient) is lower than the temp of the motor. and lipo temps should also be upper warm. Brand/model/specs of the lipo do makes a different in temp management. I use ORCA 70C infinity on 4S - temp was acceptably higher compared to when I was using a 35C Turnity nanotech lipo..of course performance of my flux on a ORCA 70C lipo is far better compared to 35C Nanotech lipo..I have used a few other brands of lipo but now I stick with ORCA and nanotech as both provide the temp stability that I expected.

note: I use a telemmetry temp sensors fitted in the heat sink of the ESC - the same as using the temp gun, both telemetry temp sensors and temp gun are just threshold measurement indicators, regardless which is more accurate than the other. brands/models of temp gun also varies in accuracy.

just sharing as an insight of my experience if its of any value.

savyguyhp

iTrader: (1)

Ok now i seem to have a better undersatanding on how all this works, i was going to get some nano tech lipos 11.1v (45-80c) but know that i know that basically the higher c rating the better i might just get some (65-130c) 11.1v , also aqeel200 what is your gearing in preference, i tryed 20-49 gearing befor on 6s and it ran awsome, but i didnt check the temp i didnt run it super hard like how i was testing it on 4s but i was backfliping and doing some nice big jumps, my esc felt warm but then again i didnt check the temp, i forgot to mention that when i took my temps i pointed my temp gun upclose to where the motor wires pluged in to the esc thats where i got my high temp.

aqeel200

gearing - when i was using 21/49 - it was all fine. but my pinion does not last. I use 20T - robinson racing harden steel - it last only a little while longer. gear mesh is good..but my mode of play with all the wheelies and cudn't care much about landing with power on...so now I am using 25T tini pinion with an adapter kit from Losi. But now, I am using an castle 1800kv motor..this provide a better management of heat in my setup.

when I was using 2200kv on my flux, temp is a little bit higher when using 25T with stock 49T Spur...i can lower down the temp by changing either the spur or pinion..BUT i need durability/strength of the pinion more that anything else meeting to my mode of play(and my children)..its a real pain to keep on replacing the pinion..even worse if I cant take it out... - hence - i use 25T tini and adjust all the rest to suit that gearing...1800kv suits fine with 25T tini + 49T stock spur..temp is also good and safe - comparing with a 2200kv.

note: using higher C rate will increase the temp using the baseline of lower c rate with the same gear ratio. Check the temp in particular when you are using a higher C rate or a higher number of cell (4S to 5S or 6S) on the same gear ratio.

i just keep my 2200kv as spare for other application.

PS - i have been using the 25T tini pinion and i have never ever changed it for more than 1 year with my mode of bashing.

savyguyhp

iTrader: (1)

Ok man thanks alot, now im going to go to a friends house who has some 6cell lipo that im going to try with gearing ratio (20-49) and see where my temps are at, also ive been thinking about getting a 1717 to put in my savy, also i forgot to ask you sqeel what tires do u run? I run trenchers x

Cinnabun

iTrader: (39)

I have the 1717 on my truck also, I run 25/44 with the high speed idler.

aqeel200

i run 420 bowtie as i use it more on the track.

savyguyhp

iTrader: (1)

Mabe soon ill get a 1717 so i really dnt have to worry about over heating isues, but then i have worry about drive terrain

Cinnabun

iTrader: (39)

The 1717 is going to give the mamba monster a work out on 6s. Make sure you have good batteries and airflow to the esc.

savyguyhp

iTrader: (1)

I just recently tryed my savy on 6s (11.1v zippy 40c) with 20-49 gearing and my temps were nice and cool but then again the temperature outside was around 45-55 degrees, temps (esc 95-110 degrees)(motor around 110) i was driving it how i usually drive about moderate bashing mabe a little more,didnt use a body cause i dnt have one at this moment forgot to mention i did a huge jump around 40-50ft in distance,height around 15-20ft high just wanted to throw it out and im not trying to brag also i tested the durability cause i did two of those jumps and one i landed on the nose this was all just a little update