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Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades

Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades

Old 12-11-2012, 09:26 AM
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Default Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades

I'm new to the forums today and would like to ask some questions to see if anyone could help answer them? Well the other day I was given a original Traxxas T-maxx classic with the 2.5 motor, still has all the stock servos in it and the stock reciever. This is my first nitro I have ever had, I have had plenty of electric trucks but no nitro. Ok so here are my questions with it...

1. What upgrades should i do to it?
2. Should I think about taking out the reverse gears out of it?
3. Should I consider putting the bigger 3.3 traxxas motor in it? Or even another brand, the traxxas one is all i know should fit
4. What type of servos should i put in it to replace the old stock ones?
5. Im only 15 so im on a budget so anything cheaper would be nice. But also have good durability.
I already have a extra hitec high speed servo and a spectrum receiver. All the answers I get from this would be greatly appreciated. And if you can think of anything else i should do to the truck would be awesome. And if anyone has some extra motors or parts they would sell i might be interested in them? Ill try adding some pictures of the truck at some point soon also.

Last edited by durangokid1997; 12-12-2012 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:01 PM
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1.) If you already have a Spektrum Radio, go ahead and throw that in there.

2.) As with any RTR, the servos will have to be upgraded at some point. For steering, I would look for something that fits your budget with at least 250 oz/in of torque. Then you can move the stock steering servo over to throttle and save some $$ there.

3.) If you are on a limited budget, I would only upgrade things when you break the stock stuff. If you break any plastics such as A-arms, upgrade to RPM.

There is a TON of aftermarket gear out there for the T-Maxxes. You can do about anything your mind (and budget) allows. I think O.S. has a pull-start engine that is a drop-in replacement for the Traxxas. Or you can buy the big-block conversion kit to allow you to run larger motors.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:48 PM
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great questions!
are the rpm a-arms aluminium or plastic?
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:58 PM
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I recommend doing the Foreward Only Conversion. It is easy and cheap and will greatly increase your enjoyment of the truck.
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by thirdelement
great questions!
are the rpm a-arms aluminium or plastic?
all rpm parts are plastic. they are very strong and great to use!
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:55 AM
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Thanks for the reply, Ill definitely have to buy the forward only conversion for the truck. Also just yesterday when i was tuning it it ran away on me and slammed into a tree, luckily only a lower a-arm broke nothing else. Ill probably stick with a stock arms for now as its going to snow where I live at some point soon. Ill upgrade in the springtime most likely. And also, my local hobby shop/track has a entire race class for monster trucks so I'm probably going to race the truck also. And as for that os motor you mentioned do you think you could send me a link to it? I'm going to stick with just a drop in motor and maybe buy a big block conversion eventually. Thanks for the great answers
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:00 AM
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Your first nitro?



To be able to adjust the carburetor of a nitro engine correctly, you need patience and must try and understand how this works. Sometimes nitro engines are difficult to set, and if you have difficulties, then we suggest you ask your LHS (Local Hobby Shop) or Dealer where you have purchased the engine to help you in this matter. If however you prefer to try yourself, here is how:

Attention: Work only on 1 carburetor adjustment at a time and make only small adjustments, maximum 1/8 of a turn! Pre adjustments.


Once the engine is started let it reach operating temperature, then proceed as follows:
Set the main needle by holding the car off the ground, then open throttle completely. The engine should not completely clean out and should stabilize at 80% of top RPM, but if the engine cleans out completely and the rpm continues to climb too high, close the throttle immediately and open the main needle and repeat the sequence, until the engine does not clean out completely and the rpm stabilizes at 80%. If the engine runs too rich (4-stroking aIl the way), lean the main needle until the engine just starts to clean out.
Set the idle rpm of the engine by holding the car off the ground, then open throttle till the engine rpm reaches the above rpm, and then close the throttle. If the engine stalls, then you need to increase the idle by turning the idle air screw clockwise until the engine does not stall anymore. However, when the idle of the engine remains too high, then you need to lower the idle rpm by turning the idle air screw counter clockwise.
Set the idle needle by holding the car off the ground, open the throttle until the engine reaches the 80% rpm, and then close the throttle. If the engine idles for 2-5 seconds and the idle rpm decreases, then the idle needle is set too rich, so lean this setting by turning the idle needle clockwise. Repeat this process until the engine has a constant rpm for at least 20-30 seconds after the throttle has been closed. If the engine idles for 2-5 seconds and then the idle rpm increases, the engine is running too Iean at the idle needle, so richen the idle needle by turning it counter clockwise to remedy this.
Set the idle rpm by using the idle air screw, and try to find a low but reliable idle rpm. A too high idle rpm makes it more difficult to slow the car during breaking.
Attention: When adjusting the idle needle, this then can effect the idle rpm, use the idle air screw to adjust the low rpm when it becomes too high or too low.


Once you are satisfied with your carburetor settings you are ready to put the car on the track and make the final adjustments.
· Final adjustments while driving.
When ready with the pre adjustments you are now ready to put the car on the track and start your final adjustments. If you have set your idle needle and idle rpm correctly in the pre adjustment phase then you only need to adjust the main needle to find the correct setting and performances of your engine.
Start leaning the main needle by small increments (1/8 of a turn maximum) and run the car again, repeating this sequence until the engine completely cleans out, accelerates well and reaches maximum speed.
To prevent your engine from running too hot, it is advised then to richen the main needle (1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise), since running the engine too lean on the main needle will cause the engine to overheat, resulting in excessive engine wear and possible breakage.
A possible way to check the engine temperature is to apply a few drops of water on the cylinder head. The drops should evaporate only after 3-5 seconds, If they evaporate immediately the engine is too hot, so richen the main needle (1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise) immediately.
Check your engine temperature regularly. Another way of knowing if your engine is running too lean, is when you are driving and the engine starts too loose its power at the low rpm range and no smoke is coming from the exhaust; if this happens, richen the main-needle if you do not want to damage the engine.
Once properly adjusted, the engine should produce a strong, high-pitched sound at maximum speed, and a thin trail of smoke should be visible from the exhaust tailpipe.

NOTE: The carburetor settings may change with changes in weather conditions, fuel, glow plug or exhaust system. After changing any of these, always richen the main needle ¼ to ½ of a turn and then re-adjust the main needle again on the track.
NOTE: When the engine stops, the heat of the engine will go into the carburetor and alter the idle rpm. This can translate into a bad idle rpm, especially when you have your idle rpm a little low. This will come back to normal when you have made at least 1 lap on the track again so the carburetor has reached its normal working temperature.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:01 AM
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You need to make sure the engine has plenty of compression and no air leaks before you can be sure that it will run properly.

P.S. I copied the tuning guide from RBconcepts web page.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:05 AM
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Thanks for that information, The motor in the truck right now does have some problems, though when I was running it at my LHS, someone who races nitro said that it seemed to run alright but could use some better adjustments. I do plan on buying a better motor for it, maybe a trx 3.3 or a O.S someone had suggested to me. Not sure exactly what i would go with as I am on a budget.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:20 AM
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I break my engines in only slightly rich from a normal running tune and just buzz around the parking lot with them and gradually get higher in the rpm range as I go through tanks.

You will deffinitely want to seal up the back plate and the carb to prevent air leaks, they can drive you insane while you are tuning! You will also want some super sticky air filter oil to grab all those dust particles and keep the insides nice and clean.
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:31 PM
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Here are some pictures of the t-maxx as it sits
Attached Thumbnails Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades-28006_543848542311801_1640265531_n-1.jpg   Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades-59354_543855478977774_1527296741_n.jpg   Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades-154686_543848428978479_608389129_n-1.jpg   Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades-525867_543848482311807_895539295_n-1.jpg   Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades-543812_543855708977751_2003554485_n.jpg  

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Old 12-12-2012, 01:33 PM
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Some more
Attached Thumbnails Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades-563617_543855452311110_617246539_n.jpg   Traxxas T-maxx Classic upgrades-577763_543855645644424_1956694909_n.jpg  
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by durangokid1997
Thanks for that information, The motor in the truck right now does have some problems, though when I was running it at my LHS, someone who races nitro said that it seemed to run alright but could use some better adjustments. I do plan on buying a better motor for it, maybe a trx 3.3 or a O.S someone had suggested to me. Not sure exactly what i would go with as I am on a budget.

Here's the link to the OS Engine. I thought it was a pull start, but it uses either the standard pull-start or you can put the EZ-Start on it.

http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2082.html
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:21 PM
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First upgrade. Good radio and a fail safe. Then good running engine and pipe with forward only conversion.
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:55 AM
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Thanks for link to motor, and already have a good radio and receiver, Spectrum dx3r pro, and a spectrum 3 channel receiver with aux port
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