Herrsavage

OWB in the LST2 and XXL is the same..

Basically, here's a quick list of differences between the LST2 and XXL:

1.) XXL has a longer chassis.
2.) XXL has taller(faster) gearing - internally in the transmission, plus +1 on the CB.
3.) XXL has the 454 engine and DX3S radio.
4.) Wheels are different, tires the same.
5.) LST2 has hi/lo.
6.) I think the XXL has upgraded servos - the old JR 650's instead of the 590's..
7.) XXL has plastic shocks instead of the blue alu like on the LST2..

Arms, bumpers, shock towers, tank, 2-speed, etc.. - all the same..

The Aftershock has a simple bushing in the 2-speed instead of the bearing like in the LST2 and XXL. Again, LST2 and XXL 2-speed are the same.

If you want to race your XXL or just run on a track, get the tallest truggy tires you can get. I always had issues, because the smaller tires require big adjustments to the 2-speed shift points. I had issues, but others seem to have gotten on with no problems. Simple 17mm buggy or truggy hexes. Losi has some, but Mugen for ex. will work(what I have..) HPI Terra Pins will be better than the stock tires for bashing and running on a track even. Though real truggy tires will be much better for the track. The stock wheels are good for jumping, pavement, etc.. - they last FOREVER.

I would get a wing kit and sway bars for the track too.. The heavy duty front skid plate is a very good upgrade as well - protects the servos...

LGWGM

iTrader: (7)

Okay I'm almost set to post my final order (hopefully no more parts to add, lol).

I'm still clueless which glow plug should I buy

PS: anyone tried the Losi TiNi Diff ring/pinion? Are they worth the price?

sickpuppy1

iTrader: (32)

Worth the money? not really, although I have them,lol But you definetley dont want to use them unless you have the Tini clutchbell gears too

LGWGM

iTrader: (7)

omg.... seriously? You mean the low/high speed TiNi pinions and gears?

Herrsavage

Tini is a waste I'm afraid. Not needed, and yeah, if you get one, you need the other..

For LST stuff, jennysrcparts on ebay has been a great supply for me over the years. I forget who's who here, and who's ordering from where, but if like me you live in some country with crappy parts support, stocking up on parts like arms, bumpers, hubs, etc.. can be useful. There are now some others that are also very good, with frankly amazing prices.. Got some stuff from dollarhobbyz recently - everything perfect..

Here's a short list of parts I would suggest having on hand:

1.) arms
2.) hubs
3.) bumpers
4.) one or two steering servos. A bit pricey (can be had for 20 bucks apiece..) - but you'll be glad to have them if one craps out..
5.) more long term, I like to have a package of the bulkhead parts. Cheap, like 5 bucks or something..
6.) maybe a set of spindles and carriers, with bearings even.. I got a whole bearing set a long time ago, and haven't used them all, but it's always good to have bearings around - long term..
7.) DEFINITELY a screw kit
8.) A spare diff if you can get one cheaply..
9.) a whole new clutch and clutch bell
10.) a whole new 2-speed

The last three are expensive-ish new, but from a chop shop A LOT cheaper than buying new from a regular shop.. Shop around on ebay.com, and you can get good deals on them.. And again - just good to have. Not all of it is absolutely necessary, but I find those things listed above to be cheap and good to have on hand, when you live in a country with no parts support.

Besides that, I would get:

1.) Dynamite engine brace
2.) good set of hex drivers - 1/16 and 3/32. Also good to have a 2.0mm.
3.) wing-kit
4.) sway-bars
5.) hard ano front skid plate - maybe the middle..
6.) I like running Savage air filters on mine.. Always good to have a couple as backups..
7.) A few replacement clutch bearings..

Glow plug - Odonnells purple.. They are DIRT CHEAP at amain right now.. Get several...

LGWGM

iTrader: (7)

Grrr..... I wish the admin permitted my account to post here earlier
Already bought some useless upgrade

I'll check back later to redo my list to buy parts as it will require me a lot of time to add/remove the important parts and useless parts.
I will also try to cancel my order for the TiNi pinions/gears and some, lol

Thanks for the very informative response. Very much appreciated

Cheers

mongdex

Ordering from A-main is a PAIN. I prefer to order from Hobbyking or RCmart.


Well, thanks for all the replies. I have decided to get another revo 3.3. Get all the RPM upgrades!


BTW, I think it is a good idea to convert this thread to a thread about racing monster trucks. I think the class should be revived because that is how I remembered RC before all that brushless, and short course non-sense. NITRO ALL DA WAAAYY!!!!

LSVTIEG

Shoulder just gone with the savage. Sure it may not handle as well but it can be made to handle better with a few mods & won't break as much. But to each his own. Gl

ntrain42

iTrader: (33)

Too heavy..........try 1-5k tops...........

dracy69

iTrader: (5)

10-12,000 works for the front in low traction. I run 10k in the front of my savvy

Herrsavage

I researched it back in the day when MT racing was big. Most were saying 30, but that seemed thick to me, so I went with 10. It worked very well - my LST2 for the track always had truggy-like balance and was very snaky through the curves..(til I gave up trying to get it to run consistently with truggy tires.. 2-speed issues..) Many also said no sway bar up front btw.

ntrain42

iTrader: (33)

On the LST's diffs, even 10k is way too heavy.......ecrssive wear and tear, pins take a beating. I run 1k up front and 3k in the rear........and even this is a bit on the heavy side in the rear when the track is freshly watered and groomed, sometimes having 1/1 as best front and rear. For bashing, 1k front, 3k rear, works best for combo pavement.

If your running 10k or higher, your basically nearly locking your diffs under torque.........diffs and the gears are too small with very low fluid volume, and the fluid is too heavy for such a small gear/volume diff.

Do yourself a favor and try 1k/3k F/R diff fluid for awhile...........you'll notice better handling and traction characteristics all around.

LGWGM

iTrader: (7)

Anyone would like to enlighten me a bit? I noticed most people chooses the LRP .30 for their LST XXL over the O.S. .30??

Reason for asking, I might upgrade my power mill as I felt my 454 isn't powerful enough to do some quick acceleration especially on dirt though I haven't fine tuned my power mill yet. (just checking for options or maybe I'm just looking for something to upgrade. lol)

mongdex

LRP or OS is fine. They are both high quality, race grade engines. People choose LRP because they are probably biased over OS.

nismoflip

iTrader: (57)

hey there. i've been out of the monster truck scene for awhile. i have an lst2 and i'm wondering if there are any true monster truck racing tire/wheel combos available. or are you all running truggy tire/wheel setups? i already have an 8ight t 2.0 so i'm really interested in running a larger setup. at my local track my 8ight hooks u well with the stock losi xtt tires. do they make larger tires and wheels that would fit my lst2? it currently has the weird 20mm hexes but i don't mind running 17m or 23mm. upon searching proline, it looks like any sort of monster truck racing rims and tires are long discontinued. any help is appreciated. thanks.