Suteki

iTrader: (8)

Ok So I'm getting tired of my Emaxx sitting by the way side.

After having it not running for 2 months due to a snapped driveshaft (I had other cars I was running) I figured time to get it going again.

So list of mods so far;

Big Joe 40 series on Axial 8 spoke beadlocks
Traxxas centre CVD's.
Traxxas axle CVD's
FLM Bulkheads
FLM Shock Tower
RPM A-Arms
Tekno axle carriers
Standard diffs shimmed
65t Spur

The traxxas axle cvd's (TRX5451R) were the most recent purchase and installation. After putting them on the truck it was later at night so I only had a quick go of driving it up and down the front of the house. Everything seemed good, everything stayed together. So I decided to take it down to the park and see how it would go on a more open field where I could put some power down. Ran up and back once or twice and everything seemed good. I had driven it for less than two minutes or so when I heard a 'snap' and it looked like I had lost power.

Figured at that point maybe I had snapped the pinion gear (my optional 21t pinion had exploded months ago some how). As I press the throttle I noticed one of the wheels turning, which seemed odd as obviously the transmission and pinion were fine then. Looked a bit closer and notice one of the front and one of the rear cvd axles had popped out of the cups. Whether it was before or after I don't know, but the rear dog bone pin had also snapped on one side.

The thing that really baffled me was that the dog bones had popped out at all. I hadn't heard of this happening, at least not with the standard diffs, maybe with extended arms but I didn't think these were extended? (model is 3908, again RPM A-Arms).

Now once again the Emaxx is back to status of sitting in the corner.

I want to try and get it so I can take the damn thing out and not come home with broken parts all the time, which is all that I seem to do. I do run 6S but I am linear with the power, after all it just flips if you give it full throttle anyway so I usually build up speed on open fields rather gradually. I don't really take it off jumps or anything as it seems to do a pretty good job of breaking itself without any further encouragement.

Thinking at some point I will put the FLM hybrid 1/8 bulks in but at the going rate I'm getting disappointed with the lack of run time versus time in repair with this thing to the point I some times don't even like to look at it and wonder whether sinking any further money into it is worth the time.

I am preparing one last attempt to get this thing going. Obviously I need to know why the cvd's popped out of the drive cups so I am going to assume maybe I should look at the optional drive cups? These ones are for the Revo with extended wheelbase, should I look at these drive cups to prevent the cvd's popping off in the future?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rive-Cup-Set-2

Secondly the dog bone pin which snapped. Shit luck or a sign or symptom? I pressume you can't just buy the cross pin separately?

Further, any help is appreciated, thing is driving me nuts. Love the power, stance and build of the Emaxx but it's just one drama after the other with this thing.

got_nitro

iTrader: (24)

After looking at your sig, you have some other nice cars. Your rigs are kind of like having a BMW, Porsche and a Hyundai <--traxxsucks..



The only help I can offer is to tell you to sell the money pit port-o-potty toilet and don't add up your loss's because it will only piss you off more.

moondoggie

iTrader: (35)

I would get the hybrid bulks, and Losi xxl cvd's with tekno carriers. You will need to order a associated bearing to go with the conversion. I just did a flm build not too long ago and I beat the piss out of the truck. Huge jumps and have run 6s quite a bit but right now it's set up on 4s. They did not have the complete hybrid package when I got mine so I can't give any feedback on those diffs.

Suteki

iTrader: (8)

Do the losi xxl cvds fit without modification? They do look a lot thicker. Which associated were you referring to?

moondoggie

iTrader: (35)

The only mods are running the tekno carriers and the associated bearing on the inner of the carriers. Also you will need a spacer in between your wheel hex and axle carrier unless you can drill a new hole in the xxl axles. Here is a link to my thread and it has the bearing link on the first page. http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...ce-thread.html

Suteki

iTrader: (8)

Being that I already have the Tekno carriers, chasing down the bearing should be pretty easy as should finding a washer or some shims for the axle itself. So you still use the standard hexes the Emaxx 3908 comes with and just add in the spacers?

So the XXL CVD's use a 6mm axle same as the standard unit?

Will keep at it with the traxxas cvd's first off get the extended drive cups and get a new dog bone pin, noticed dog bone pins removal tools are freaking expensive. Any decent ones that aren't up near $100? They seem excessively expensive.

Anyone know how the Mugen pin removal tool is? Seems expensive but if it works it'll save having to buy new driveshafts all the time and just buying replacement pins (maybe even strong ones) will make using the traxxas cvds worthwhile as that apparently is their biggest weakness.

If the driveshafts themselves bend / break I'll look into the XXL CVD's as they seem pretty cheap and if they are stronger then that's definitely an added bonus.

moondoggie

iTrader: (35)

no the losi axles are 8mm, i forgot they sell the tekno carriers by themselves. I bought the kit that comes with the stub axles and new 17mm hex. In the kit you use the outer bearing but have to gget the associated inner bearing

MiRatlhed

iTrader: (35)

I know people use Ejector pins for dog bone pins and CVD pins. I use them to make captured hinge pins and they work awesome.

http://www.plastixs.com/ep03.html

billzkustomz

iTrader: (12)

buy a lst/savage.. did the emaxx, real 1/8 scales own it in every way

blazerss

iTrader: (61)

I think Moondog and I both could put our Emaxx's against any other 1/8 scale truck and hang right there with them. Miratlhed also has a maxx that would hang with anything. If your willing you can make a maxx a real performer. I will admit though, you will have to sink some money into it.

melonpeel

iTrader: (6)

Make sure your pillow balls are in all the way, and lighten the wheels for 6s. I use AKA City Block truggy premounts and they work awesome.

The truck is best on 4s but can run 6s worry free with a beefed up driveline from pinion gear all the way out to the axles. If you want to spend a little.. the flm hybrid bulks with 1/8 scale heavy duty diffs and flm chassis are the ticket. MIP is now making some new bones as well that could handle 6s. RC monster pinions and drive cups, RRP steel spur are also a must. I spent a lot to bulletproof mine, and it's a blast to drive. With all the upgrades it drives similar to my losi truggy but still has a lilttle monster inside.

SloRacer1080

iTrader: (15)

Hey! Leaving me out of the running? jk

But yeah, dump some money into building one and you will come out with a mean machine. I think mine ended up around $800-$850, granted I did already have the motor/esc and radio.

blazerss

iTrader: (61)

Sorry soloracer, I forgot about yours. Off course I mention how good the maxx's are and I take mine out today and pull a pillow ball out of a knuckle in a pretty hard rollover. Just my luck

Suteki

iTrader: (8)

Just discovered too one of those Traxxas CVD's where the dogbone pin is broken, the driveshaft is also bent. I didn't even roll the car so it seems the Traxxas drive shafts aren't really up to 6S.

These XXL axles, are they up to task on 6S? These are the ones I should be looking at yeh;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-LOSI-LST-X...15598205314198

rustlererad3

iTrader: (1)

looks like a fun build