diff oil help? blown rear dff D8T
04-24-2012, 01:00 PM
#4
I would maybe suggest between 100k-300k in the center diff, 30k-50k in the front, 50-100k in the rear. See if that gets you the results you're looking for.
You could either go up on weight in the center (500k) or the front (100k) until you get the desired results.
The truggy should get more wheelie happy the more weight you add to the center.
You could either go up on weight in the center (500k) or the front (100k) until you get the desired results.
The truggy should get more wheelie happy the more weight you add to the center.
04-25-2012, 08:10 AM
#6
I would go between 10/15k for center, 5 or 7 front, and 5 or less in the rear. The big issue, IMO, that you're battling is the instant torque of an electric. I don't know anything about Castle products, but judging by your sig, this is what you're running. That said, I would look into your E.S.C settings. Does CC have any kind of current limiting option? If so, use that. That will help far more than your diff oils.
04-25-2012, 07:00 PM
#8
7k ft 3k rear. 30k thousand.
04-25-2012, 07:17 PM
#10
The higher the number, the thicker the fluid. The thicker the fluid, the less the differential will unload.
For example
5k is pretty thin.
7k is slightly thicker
30k is getting fairly thick
100k is normally not used except for bashing
500k is super thick. You will still get diff action but it will slow it down a lot.
And there are lots of variations between those weights, that just gives you an idea of how the weights go
A normal setup for a nitro truggy goes similar to this:
7k front, 10k center, 3k rear
If you are bashing though, a thicker center diff weight will probably add to the fun factor. I think 100k + in the center would be good on a brushless basher truggy.
However, It shouldnt have an issue with a locked center differential. All the brushless MT's have a solid center tranny which would be the same as a locked diff on your truggy. My brushless MGT has yet to strip any teeth off the diff gears. Your diff gears may have been loose meshing, or could have just been worn and finally gave out. I would have thought truggy diff's would be strong enough to handle a locked center though, especially since they are relatively light compared to MT's.
Might just have to rebuild it, shim it, and give it another try
For example
5k is pretty thin.
7k is slightly thicker
30k is getting fairly thick
100k is normally not used except for bashing
500k is super thick. You will still get diff action but it will slow it down a lot.
And there are lots of variations between those weights, that just gives you an idea of how the weights go
A normal setup for a nitro truggy goes similar to this:
7k front, 10k center, 3k rear
If you are bashing though, a thicker center diff weight will probably add to the fun factor. I think 100k + in the center would be good on a brushless basher truggy.
However, It shouldnt have an issue with a locked center differential. All the brushless MT's have a solid center tranny which would be the same as a locked diff on your truggy. My brushless MGT has yet to strip any teeth off the diff gears. Your diff gears may have been loose meshing, or could have just been worn and finally gave out. I would have thought truggy diff's would be strong enough to handle a locked center though, especially since they are relatively light compared to MT's.
Might just have to rebuild it, shim it, and give it another try
04-25-2012, 07:38 PM
#11
7k ft 3k rear. 30k center
05-25-2013, 08:46 AM
#12
Hey Guys.
What diff setup would you recommend for a Basher? I was thinking 70/100/50 FRONT/CENTER/REAR.
Running 4S on Tekin 2050kv.
Appreciate recommendations.
What diff setup would you recommend for a Basher? I was thinking 70/100/50 FRONT/CENTER/REAR.
Running 4S on Tekin 2050kv.
Appreciate recommendations.
05-25-2013, 09:47 AM
#13
You do realize this thread is over a year old before you posted?
Are you driving a D8T? If so, basher or racer you should run what is recommended from the factory or a bit heavier or lighter like racers try out and do. They are not designed to be almost or close to being locked. Center diff's are designed and are "supposed" to unload to the wheels that have the least abount of traction, if you want something that is locked or close to locked you are driving the wrong RC car.
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