ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

most of you know i rebuilt my 3.3 t maxx. now im just trying to work the bugs out. i just ran it for about 10-15 minutes. the past couple times i ran my temps are getting above 300. im using the traxxas on-board temp gauge and i got the wire on the last groove of the cooling head. i got good smoke coming out the pipe. its 37 outside. i got a new glow plug in it. what is causing the temps to go up like that?

and today im running down the street, and no steering. the steering servo is not turning. its a almost brand new traxxas 2075 servo. its making a like high pitch screaming noise and you can hear it making noises when you turn the wheel on the controller but its not turning. im gonna take it off and check it out. but what is wrong you think with the servo? im running traxxas 2.4 rx/tx. i just cant see it going out already! i mean theres not even a couple hours on it.

so any help is greatly appreciated! thanks.

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

oh, one more thing. i notice when im running fuel is on top of my tank. i got the rd logics blue aluminum tank with an aluminum fuel tank cap. i even bent the spring that pushes the cap down to make it more tight. if i tip the truck upside down, it dont leak. but its like a little fuel is some how leaking out through the cap. i got the o-ring on the bottom of the lid. but i notice when the lid is closed, its night tight seal. like when you open or close the tank lid you should feel the o-ring rubbing the inside of the tank collar. but i cant feel that. but like i said theres nothing coming out when i put fuel in the tank and tip it upside down. im thinking the pressure from the exhaust blowing in the tank is causing like a mist of fuel coming out under the tank lid. and ideas how to stop it?

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

i took the servo out and it must be stripped inside. i been wanting to upgrade to a savox servo, but as long as the one i had worked i held off. now it looks like im going to have to get a new servo. im looking at the savox sc-0251 servo. its $39.99 shipped brand new. it has almost 100oz-in more torque than the one i was using. its not waterproof, but i should see a big improvement with it! tell me if you think this is a good one to get. money is pretty tight, so dont tell me about no $70 $80+ servo's please. here is the specs-

Savox SC-0251 "Larger Standard" Digital High Torque Metal Gear Servo

This is the Savox SC-0251 "Larger Standard" Digital High Torque Metal Gear Servo. This high torque servo is great for crawlers, 1/8 scale vehicles and 50 class airplanes.

Features:

Precision metal gears forms a strong and solid framework
Strict production and quality control of plastic components
Totally Green – from materials to production, these servos are environmentally friendly.

Specifications:

Speed @ 6.0V: 0.18 sec/60°
Torque @ 6.0V: 222 oz-in / 16.0 kg-cm
Weight: 61g
Bearing: Dual
Type: Larger Standard
Gear: Metal
Case: Plastic
Output Shaft: 25T Spline (Futaba)
Case Size (LxWxH): 40.7x20x42.4mm

NOTE: This servo is taller than standard size servos. Please verify that the dimensions of this servo will suit your application prior to purchase.

Wallee

iTrader: (1)

Usually in the winter I have to run a little more rich on the top end. Try richening up the HSN 1/8 turn.

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

yea i turned the hsn back to factory which is 4 turns out from tight. i counted 6 turns i had my hsn set. so i turned the hsn 1/2 turn at a time when i was running up and down the street. because when i first started at 4 turns out, when i gave it from 3/4-full throttle it would bog down and not go. but as i richened the hsn it went away. then my d*mn servo went out. so i gotta wait until i can get a servo before i get it back out. i dont care about running it in the winter, im just trying to get all the bugs worked out so when it does start to get warm its all ready to go

Wallee

iTrader: (1)

Thats great man! I have a t maxx project truck on the way to my house now, should arrive in the mail in 2 days and I will strt a build thread shortly after I get some parts ordered! What all do you reccommend upgrading on the stock t maxx off the bat?

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

go with rpm everywhere you can. just get parts as you go along, or get them and put everything on in one shot. aluminum bulkheads front and rear. that would be a good start. maybe go to 2.4ghz if its not already.

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

ok, i found the problem with the fuel tank. i tried 2 different plastic stock likds and the aluminum lid. i tried different o-rings, seals, etc... the fuel is leaking out under the lid only when you give it gas and the pressure builds enough in the tank. the problem is the aluminum tank collar where the lid sets down in and seals is to big. like if i set the lid on the tank, there is a little play in the collar. any ideas what i can do to seal it? but still be able to open the lid to refuel. if i cant figure something out, im going to have to get the stock plastic tank. i thought rd logics is a good company? im having issues here with the tank, and i had issues with the rd logics aluminum tranny housing im using. but someone please help me figure out how i can get this tank lid to seal. thanks!

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

ok, i took the foam seal out of the aluminum tank lid and i have a bunch of rubber o-rings. so i took one and put it in place of the foam seal. now when the lid closes, it snaps down instead of just closing down on the foam seal. my tank was probably a little over half full and i ran my truck for a good 5 minutes and no leaking! i guess that rubber o-ring i put in the lid sealed off the cap. i need to try it when the tank is full and see if fuel comes out around the lid again. but im still open to suggestions on how to seal the lid better.

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

ok, i just took the servo apart. and guess what...........one of the plastic gears was stripped. there was little white plastic pieces all in the gears and grease. i took the gears off and the biggest one is missing 2 teeth. so i looked on ebay and it was only $5.54 shipped for a new gear set-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400269615234...84.m1497.l2649

i figured for that price i will try to fix this servo until i can afford to get that savox. i just hope a new gear will fix it. because even when the servo was on and not moving it makes a kinda high pitch noise. i guess i'll find out when the new gears come in. i hope it will work right after the new gear goes in.

SloRacer1080

iTrader: (15)

As far as the motor temps, my 3.3 didn't like to run below 300. It ran like crap at anywhere from 250-280, right at 300 was it's sweet spot. I had ran about 2-2.5 gallons through it before I converted mine to brushless, and the motor was still running strong. Personally I tend not to worry too much about my Traxxas engines, they are almost disposable, granted the 3.3 is by far their best one yet.

Just my .02 on the 3.3 motor.

cdewalt1985

iTrader: (17)

I bought my trx 3.3 for my maxx new and it has always ran around 300 and never had any issues.

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

yea i mean during the summer it hit in the 300's a few times, but mostly i kept it around 250-270's. i hears when you see smoke coming off the engine thats not good. i just need to fine tune it some more i think. thanks for the input guys!

ckblood05

iTrader: (15)

well i thought i would try the servo after the gears were out. and its shot! when i plug it in and turn on the reciever the servo starts making a high pitch sound and a gear is always turning on its own. then when i try to turn it with the controller it dont do nothing. so i stripped it down and now im selling it all as parts. so i need to get that savox asap! oh yea, i sent the guy a message to cancel my order for that gear kit since i no longer need it.

SloRacer1080

iTrader: (15)

Your servo is probably fine actually. When you have all the gears off, you'll notice there is a brass piece that keys into the main output gear (the one with the splines for a servo arm). That part lets the servo know where the output gear is, like 0*, 30*, 60* (out of 360*) etc.... So if you go back and try it again, turn that piece of brass, you'll notice the motor will stop when you have the brass piece centered, that is how the servo motor knows its centered, and it stops turning. If I was at home I'd take a pic, but I think you can understand what I mean.