Just Ordered a Revo 3.3
04-28-2011, 12:36 PM
#1
Just Ordered a Revo 3.3
A racing buddy of mine and I just bought Revo 3.3's and they are en route. We race on road carpet so these are basically to bash around the yard and possibly race in the future if we changed classes.
I searched for available hop-ups for the vehicle and there seem to be a lot of them. What I was wondering is what hop-ups would you all recommend to help with the durability of the truck? They seem to sell damn near every part in aluminum but from my on road experiences the stock plastic parts are able to flex a little and not bend under force like the aluminum ones do. I've also come across a large variety of roll cages so if one is known to be much better that would be good to know too.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I searched for available hop-ups for the vehicle and there seem to be a lot of them. What I was wondering is what hop-ups would you all recommend to help with the durability of the truck? They seem to sell damn near every part in aluminum but from my on road experiences the stock plastic parts are able to flex a little and not bend under force like the aluminum ones do. I've also come across a large variety of roll cages so if one is known to be much better that would be good to know too.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
04-29-2011, 01:49 PM
#4
I just ordered and got mine about 2 weeks ago also. First thing I would do, is get RPM A-Arms all around. IThat is the first step that I did and they are very strong and light. I went a step further and got the true-track for the rear and they are super nice. Sets toe-in automatically for you at I think 1 degress and comes with a hub carrier. I also upgraded to the CVD drive shafts from traxxas. If you do that, make sure you also order the extended diff cups for them. Once you start jumping with it, the ones that come with the CVD's are too short and the axles will pull out from the diff cup. Next, I upgraded to the adonized aluminum sterring push rods and tie rods from Traxxas. Rmember, if you get the true-track from RPM, don't order the tie-rods for the rear because the RPM version gets rid of the tie rods! They are lighter and stronger and a really good upgrade. I also upgraded to the vented disc brake from Traxxas. It is thicker and I noticed a noticeable difference in braking power with it.
I have had bad luck with aluminum. The RPM A-arms are just as strong as aluminum and they are cheaper and a better product. With aluminum, if you hit somehting you will bend it, and it will be permanently weaker. I highly suggest the a-arms first, especially for bashing.
I have had bad luck with aluminum. The RPM A-arms are just as strong as aluminum and they are cheaper and a better product. With aluminum, if you hit somehting you will bend it, and it will be permanently weaker. I highly suggest the a-arms first, especially for bashing.
04-30-2011, 04:20 AM
#5
I just ordered and got mine about 2 weeks ago also. First thing I would do, is get RPM A-Arms all around. IThat is the first step that I did and they are very strong and light. I went a step further and got the true-track for the rear and they are super nice. Sets toe-in automatically for you at I think 1 degress and comes with a hub carrier. I also upgraded to the CVD drive shafts from traxxas. If you do that, make sure you also order the extended diff cups for them. Once you start jumping with it, the ones that come with the CVD's are too short and the axles will pull out from the diff cup. Next, I upgraded to the adonized aluminum sterring push rods and tie rods from Traxxas. Rmember, if you get the true-track from RPM, don't order the tie-rods for the rear because the RPM version gets rid of the tie rods! They are lighter and stronger and a really good upgrade. I also upgraded to the vented disc brake from Traxxas. It is thicker and I noticed a noticeable difference in braking power with it.
I have had bad luck with aluminum. The RPM A-arms are just as strong as aluminum and they are cheaper and a better product. With aluminum, if you hit somehting you will bend it, and it will be permanently weaker. I highly suggest the a-arms first, especially for bashing.
I have had bad luck with aluminum. The RPM A-arms are just as strong as aluminum and they are cheaper and a better product. With aluminum, if you hit somehting you will bend it, and it will be permanently weaker. I highly suggest the a-arms first, especially for bashing.
So, you went out and spent all that money and time to replace perfectly good parts..... That makes sense....
OP, hold off on buying anything until you bust something.
04-30-2011, 05:16 AM
#6
I think mjeally's advise is spot on. The OP asked for upgrades to strengthen his revo and those are the best upgrades to do so.
The RPM tru tracks are a must for racing (and will save hassle when bashing too) as the rear toe links are quite vulnerable and one tap from behind (or a good tumble) and your toe is out. I got sick of constantly adjusting rear toe and replacing rear toe link rods ends and the Tru tracks have been trouble free. The only down side is they are set at only 1.5 degrees per corner, whereas i prefered 3 degrees.
Wish RPM would make a 3 degree version
The only thing i wouldn't bother with is the CVD's. i've had my Brushless Erevo for nearly 2 years and been racing it for a year and only ever twisted one yolk on the stock driveshafts. If they can handle Brushless power i doubt you'll have issues with 3.3 power
We have about 8 - 10 Revo's / Erevos at our club and no one is running CVD's, some are running summit shafts as they are stronger but can be problematic in the front end if you do the steering mods, as they dont handle the extra angle.
I assume you know to replace your shock oil with 60 (light bashing or racing) or 70wt (big jump bashing). The stock goop the shocks come filled with is not much chop for anything more than a leisurely drive.
I've had no experience with roll cages and personally dont believe they are necessary unless you are a really bad driver. Especially not for racing.
Have fun with the new trucks.
The RPM tru tracks are a must for racing (and will save hassle when bashing too) as the rear toe links are quite vulnerable and one tap from behind (or a good tumble) and your toe is out. I got sick of constantly adjusting rear toe and replacing rear toe link rods ends and the Tru tracks have been trouble free. The only down side is they are set at only 1.5 degrees per corner, whereas i prefered 3 degrees.
Wish RPM would make a 3 degree versionThe only thing i wouldn't bother with is the CVD's. i've had my Brushless Erevo for nearly 2 years and been racing it for a year and only ever twisted one yolk on the stock driveshafts. If they can handle Brushless power i doubt you'll have issues with 3.3 power
We have about 8 - 10 Revo's / Erevos at our club and no one is running CVD's, some are running summit shafts as they are stronger but can be problematic in the front end if you do the steering mods, as they dont handle the extra angle.I assume you know to replace your shock oil with 60 (light bashing or racing) or 70wt (big jump bashing). The stock goop the shocks come filled with is not much chop for anything more than a leisurely drive.
I've had no experience with roll cages and personally dont believe they are necessary unless you are a really bad driver.
Especially not for racing.Have fun with the new trucks.
04-30-2011, 06:24 AM
#7
Keep it simple.. buy/upgrade as you break.. personaly RPM arms to me flexed way too much. had to reset some of my settings alot on race day.. I broke 1 arm in 3 years of racing.. keep the cvds stock.. I tried the steel ones and had the dog bones come out a couple times.. I do understand they might have a cup that is longer now but I still would'nt switch..have'nt had any stock shaft issues and if need be, replacement parts are cheap.The main thing I realy don't like on the 3.3 is the 3.3.. The 1st two platinums I had we were going to use the engines and never could get them to stay consistent.so we went the BB route for the 1st couple years, but this year we're trying an engine that is a direct drop in and thier working great so far..as I said at the begining, keep it simple and upgrade, if need be as you go.. I for one am one of these many guys who had to have that new and improved part, but as time went on, I'm pretty much using stock parts for racing this year..
04-30-2011, 06:54 AM
#8
I think mjeally's advise is spot on. The OP asked for upgrades to strengthen his revo and those are the best upgrades to do so.
The RPM tru tracks are a must for racing (and will save hassle when bashing too) as the rear toe links are quite vulnerable and one tap from behind (or a good tumble) and your toe is out. I got sick of constantly adjusting rear toe and replacing rear toe link rods ends and the Tru tracks have been trouble free. The only down side is they are set at only 1.5 degrees per corner, whereas i prefered 3 degrees. Wish RPM would make a 3 degree version
The only thing i wouldn't bother with is the CVD's. i've had my Brushless Erevo for nearly 2 years and been racing it for a year and only ever twisted one yolk on the stock driveshafts. If they can handle Brushless power i doubt you'll have issues with 3.3 power We have about 8 - 10 Revo's / Erevos at our club and no one is running CVD's, some are running summit shafts as they are stronger but can be problematic in the front end if you do the steering mods, as they dont handle the extra angle.
I assume you know to replace your shock oil with 60 (light bashing or racing) or 70wt (big jump bashing). The stock goop the shocks come filled with is not much chop for anything more than a leisurely drive.
I've had no experience with roll cages and personally dont believe they are necessary unless you are a really bad driver. Especially not for racing.
Have fun with the new trucks.
The RPM tru tracks are a must for racing (and will save hassle when bashing too) as the rear toe links are quite vulnerable and one tap from behind (or a good tumble) and your toe is out. I got sick of constantly adjusting rear toe and replacing rear toe link rods ends and the Tru tracks have been trouble free. The only down side is they are set at only 1.5 degrees per corner, whereas i prefered 3 degrees.
Wish RPM would make a 3 degree versionThe only thing i wouldn't bother with is the CVD's. i've had my Brushless Erevo for nearly 2 years and been racing it for a year and only ever twisted one yolk on the stock driveshafts. If they can handle Brushless power i doubt you'll have issues with 3.3 power
We have about 8 - 10 Revo's / Erevos at our club and no one is running CVD's, some are running summit shafts as they are stronger but can be problematic in the front end if you do the steering mods, as they dont handle the extra angle.I assume you know to replace your shock oil with 60 (light bashing or racing) or 70wt (big jump bashing). The stock goop the shocks come filled with is not much chop for anything more than a leisurely drive.
I've had no experience with roll cages and personally dont believe they are necessary unless you are a really bad driver.
Especially not for racing.Have fun with the new trucks.
If I was a RC part company, your the guy I'm looking for!
Suit yourself, your all big boys and can make your own decisions, even if they make no sense and are IMO bad ones.
04-30-2011, 07:15 AM
#9
Tech Regular
Some of the best upgrades for a revo are cheap, like ditching reverse, ez-start, and one steering servo. Sell the 3.3 before it ever runs and use the money for a real engine.
04-30-2011, 09:10 AM
#11
What If he never breaks a A-arm? Then he just spent unnecessary money....Yeah, thats GREAT! I just bought a BRAND NEW truck and I have to spend MORE money and buy parts for it that someone from the net told me about that I don't even "KNOW" I will need..
Real nice Einstein....
04-30-2011, 10:54 AM
#12
Tech Rookie
There is NOTHING to offer until you break something What If he never breaks a A-arm? Then he just spent unnecessary money....
Yeah, thats GREAT! I just bought a BRAND NEW truck and I have to spend MORE money and buy parts for it that someone from the net told me about that I don't even "KNOW" I will need..
Real nice Einstein....
What If he never breaks a A-arm? Then he just spent unnecessary money....Yeah, thats GREAT! I just bought a BRAND NEW truck and I have to spend MORE money and buy parts for it that someone from the net told me about that I don't even "KNOW" I will need..
Real nice Einstein....
Man thats good advise just break one buy one. you have another truck why anticipate the break. you might not break a thing. ever. I know folks that havent
04-30-2011, 12:53 PM
#13
Titanium push rods, toe and steering links ( forget the true track, not enough toe)
Titanium Rocker posts
Front vented brake
M2C brace
Variable damper kit and PE shocks
Stock arms and axles
Extended rear arms
RD racing axle carriers and 8mm stub axles
M2C hexes
PE tranny with 500K center diff
Proline aluminum steering arm and HD servo saver spring
All steering mods and aluminum servo horn with single steering servo
ERevo diffs
TRX sway bars
But what the hell do we know, we are just people you don't know on the net
Titanium Rocker posts
Front vented brake
M2C brace
Variable damper kit and PE shocks
Stock arms and axles
Extended rear arms
RD racing axle carriers and 8mm stub axles
M2C hexes
PE tranny with 500K center diff
Proline aluminum steering arm and HD servo saver spring
All steering mods and aluminum servo horn with single steering servo
ERevo diffs
TRX sway bars
But what the hell do we know, we are just people you don't know on the net
04-30-2011, 12:59 PM
#14
Tech Rookie
damn that makes me want to get a differant truck now TMAXX maybe I cant go wrong
04-30-2011, 02:31 PM
#15
Titanium push rods, toe and steering links ( forget the true track, not enough toe)
Titanium Rocker posts
Front vented brake
M2C brace
Variable damper kit and PE shocks
Stock arms and axles
Extended rear arms
RD racing axle carriers and 8mm stub axles
M2C hexes
PE tranny with 500K center diff
Proline aluminum steering arm and HD servo saver spring
All steering mods and aluminum servo horn with single steering servo
ERevo diffs
TRX sway bars
But what the hell do we know, we are just people you don't know on the net
Titanium Rocker posts
Front vented brake
M2C brace
Variable damper kit and PE shocks
Stock arms and axles
Extended rear arms
RD racing axle carriers and 8mm stub axles
M2C hexes
PE tranny with 500K center diff
Proline aluminum steering arm and HD servo saver spring
All steering mods and aluminum servo horn with single steering servo
ERevo diffs
TRX sway bars
But what the hell do we know, we are just people you don't know on the net