SloRacer1080

iTrader: (15)

All you need is the engine. The ez-start will bolt right up to the back plate on the new motor(so will a pull start if you want to go that route, remember to order a glow ignitor if you do, like a 'Hot Shot'), the clutch assembly will do the same. Just swap it from the traxxas motor and install on the dynamite one. And thats it Break in the engine per dynamites instructions and you'll be ready to rip!

EDIT: Just noticed, the dynamite motor uses a spring to hold the header on, Traxxas use 2 screws. It comes with all you need. the 2 half circle pieces you see in one of the pics wrap around the header, line up the holes in the plates and the spring wraps around the motor to the other hole in the half circle pieces.

The only thing you might need would be clutch bearings, if your's feel gritty or don't spin freely just replace em before they seize up, and possibly the brass collet for the flywheel. It's a conical shape and it works like a compression fitting. I doubt you'd need one, but just throwing it out there. If anything, I'd replace the bearings and the clutch spring/shoes just on principle. Smooth clutch bearings make me happy and the clutches fail so often. I am on #3 in 2 gallons, it's gotten to where I keep a spare in my box.

bdyman

iTrader: (4)

i really dont think i want the ez start any more its nice and all but when it fails i was told it could damage the engine and give false tuning info, so the ezstart is out

so i need another glow plug, a ignitor, and a new fly wheel, and clutch assembly, so what pull start should i get then and with the weather cooling down her ein the windy city should i go with a medium plug or a cool plug

SloRacer1080

iTrader: (15)

I just stumbled into this...
You might want to read through it first

Really curious how the starter can give you "false tuning info"? It's preference in the end. Do you want to carry around a 6cell battery in a box, or a little glow stick in your pocket while playing? I like being lazy when I am playing with my truck so I left the ez-start on mine. When the maxx first came out the one way bearings sucked, and would always slip, I couldn't even guess how many I replaced, so the ez-start got a real bad rep from that. But I surprisingly haven't had a single issue with the new setup.

You shouldn't need a new flywheel. Unless it's really beaten up, like chunks missing or it's bent/warped. If it's just like the ridges around it are smoothed over, it's fine. The ridges on them is really for setups that use starter boxes, the ridges give the rubber wheel something solid to grab. Can't use a starter box with a maxx. Your clutch bell should be fine, just grab the shoes/spring for $8. And check your bearings, they could be fine also.

I'm pretty sure the consensus is going to be to use a hotter plug in the colder weather. Personally I use mediums year round, in the colder times I just use bodies with less cooling air flow.

bdyman

iTrader: (4)

so your saying i have to use the ez start and CANT use a pull start??
ya know im going to replace everything, i dont want any problems with a new engine, flywheel and clutch assembly, kinda sucks i cant use a pull start
and ill stick with a medium plug then

bdyman

iTrader: (4)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...harness-TRX-33

ez start 2, can it be used with the engine im buying

SloRacer1080

iTrader: (15)

You should in theory already have that. Or do you have the old ezstart with the little box that zipties to the battery?

If you dont have the newer ezstart where the battery is in a box, you might as well spend the $40 on a better motor in my opinion.

Ok, after reading more about it, all you need are 3 little washers between the pull start and the motor on the pull start screws and you are set.

bdyman

iTrader: (4)

your right i do have the ez start 2, for 40 bucks brand new i guess ill stick with it, well i guess i will start ordering parts

bdyman

iTrader: (4)

got the new engine ok, new ezstart, had a issues with but everything is fine, thanks for that recomendation awesome engine btw..............ok but now it doesnt want to move

i took the engine back out, and started looking at the trans, the truck can roll freely on the ground, the fly wheel on the trans the nut is tight, if i move that it just spins

if i push the truck on the ground i see the driveshafts moving and i can hear something in the trans rattling around, so once again do i have a bad trans

got_nitro

iTrader: (24)

Time to pull the trans out. Could be a bunch of things.

Things to look for.
Grub screw pin came out (it goes into the primary gear, through the shaft) that got wedged inbetween a gear and possibly stripped out a few teeth. It's not only the primary gear that has grub pins in them. Look at all of them.

Reverse gear stripped out and got all up in the other gears.

While you are in there if you haven't done it or if it's not done yet, do the F.O.C shaft and gear. (Forward only conversion..) It's like $14 or so bucks.

bdyman

iTrader: (4)

fantaastic, just more money im really pissed off that i traded for a pile of crap

SloRacer1080

iTrader: (15)

Hey you know what, I have a spare 2.5 style transmission just sitting around that I have no use for. PM me, just cover the shipping and its yours. I got it on a used roller that I used for parts, I put about 2-3 tanks through it, and it worked fine. Still has reverse.