mid tank converssion for savage help me out.
08-19-2010, 03:45 PM
#1
mid tank converssion for savage help me out.
Ok I'm hearing to some about the mid tank converssion for the savage what dose it do for handeling.
Will it fit the old savage 21.
I have the lcg chassis right now but if this will emprove perfomance then I'm all game to getting it. What kind of extra things will I need to complete the converssion? New tank? Servo mounts ...is there any thing. What are some pros and cons of this chassis?
Will it fit the old savage 21.
I have the lcg chassis right now but if this will emprove perfomance then I'm all game to getting it. What kind of extra things will I need to complete the converssion? New tank? Servo mounts ...is there any thing. What are some pros and cons of this chassis?
08-20-2010, 06:32 AM
#2
I would help you out, but this is one of the few things that I'm not an expert on with the Savage. Never seen it up close myself or tried it. Just gonna have to wait for Casey or one of the other guys to help you out. I'm just serving as a thread bump. 
08-20-2010, 08:53 AM
#4
To do the midtank conversion you need either the extended CF plates (forget company, it's on HPISF), or the Extended LCG TVPs from Fast Lane Machines. You also need to get a servo plate from them to mount your tank on. It's all about 80$ to do for the chassis conversion.
After you do this you buy either a Mugen MBX5 tank (125cc) or you can go with a bigger tank depending on your preference and modification skills. If you go with a 250cc you will have to do a rear mounted throttle servo, if you go with the 125 Mugen you can keep your servo in the same spot for throttle (although it's much better in the back).
As for handling, it doesn't affect it either way, although the LCG extended chassis will help you a lot. What the mod is intended to do is get rid of the half tank lean that plagues the stock Savage tank. The problem consists of fuel being above the carb for half the tank, then dipping below it, causing a different ratio which is unavoidable. It's why you hear some Savage drivers having to fill up after jus a half tank to keep running problem free. With the mod you can flip over and it'll run all day with a truggy tank if you please.
After you do this you buy either a Mugen MBX5 tank (125cc) or you can go with a bigger tank depending on your preference and modification skills. If you go with a 250cc you will have to do a rear mounted throttle servo, if you go with the 125 Mugen you can keep your servo in the same spot for throttle (although it's much better in the back).
As for handling, it doesn't affect it either way, although the LCG extended chassis will help you a lot. What the mod is intended to do is get rid of the half tank lean that plagues the stock Savage tank. The problem consists of fuel being above the carb for half the tank, then dipping below it, causing a different ratio which is unavoidable. It's why you hear some Savage drivers having to fill up after jus a half tank to keep running problem free. With the mod you can flip over and it'll run all day with a truggy tank if you please.
08-20-2010, 01:17 PM
#5
I'm new to monster trucks so would it be hard to do this converssion. Is there a lot of modding and custom parts ill have to make? Or dose every thing I need come in a kit?
08-20-2010, 05:55 PM
#6
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To do the midtank conversion you need either the extended CF plates (forget company, it's on HPISF), or the Extended LCG TVPs from Fast Lane Machines. You also need to get a servo plate from them to mount your tank on. It's all about 80$ to do for the chassis conversion.
After you do this you buy either a Mugen MBX5 tank (125cc) or you can go with a bigger tank depending on your preference and modification skills. If you go with a 250cc you will have to do a rear mounted throttle servo, if you go with the 125 Mugen you can keep your servo in the same spot for throttle (although it's much better in the back).
As for handling, it doesn't affect it either way, although the LCG extended chassis will help you a lot. What the mod is intended to do is get rid of the half tank lean that plagues the stock Savage tank. The problem consists of fuel being above the carb for half the tank, then dipping below it, causing a different ratio which is unavoidable. It's why you hear some Savage drivers having to fill up after jus a half tank to keep running problem free. With the mod you can flip over and it'll run all day with a truggy tank if you please.
After you do this you buy either a Mugen MBX5 tank (125cc) or you can go with a bigger tank depending on your preference and modification skills. If you go with a 250cc you will have to do a rear mounted throttle servo, if you go with the 125 Mugen you can keep your servo in the same spot for throttle (although it's much better in the back).
As for handling, it doesn't affect it either way, although the LCG extended chassis will help you a lot. What the mod is intended to do is get rid of the half tank lean that plagues the stock Savage tank. The problem consists of fuel being above the carb for half the tank, then dipping below it, causing a different ratio which is unavoidable. It's why you hear some Savage drivers having to fill up after jus a half tank to keep running problem free. With the mod you can flip over and it'll run all day with a truggy tank if you please.
08-21-2010, 10:19 AM
#7
¢
08-22-2010, 01:35 AM
#8
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Dammit, heli, you should know better than to bring science into a SAVAGE thread 
Going to have some aluminum left over after the XXX-NT's new chassis, so ThunderbirdJunkie is seriously considering a midtank only because of the clunk truggy tanks and ThunderbirdJunkie's slow fat ass running after the truck to flip it over.
Going to have some aluminum left over after the XXX-NT's new chassis, so ThunderbirdJunkie is seriously considering a midtank only because of the clunk truggy tanks and ThunderbirdJunkie's slow fat ass running after the truck to flip it over.
08-22-2010, 08:16 AM
#9
Right. No, you don't need an extended chassis for a mid-tank. You can just use the stock TVPs. In fact you don't really need a mid-tank at all, although it's great for people that can't seem to properly tune their truck otherwise. All you need is a couple pieces of aluminum (or plastic), and a method of cutting and drilling it, screws, some linkage, and a tank. Hate to contradict anyone, but the "mid tank lean" that people talk about is not caused by "fuel being above the carb for half the tank, then dipping below it". If that was the cause, every rc vehicle in existence would act in a similar manner. The "issue" is caused by a variance in hydro-pneumatic pressure, when the pressure exchange area goes from ~5.5 sq" (@ full to half tank) to ~3.25 sq" as it drops below the step in the tank. A decrease in PE area = a corresponding decrease in pressure. Simple. And yes there are (partial) kits out there but personally, I wouldn't spend money on any of the kits that I've seen so far.
¢
¢
08-25-2010, 04:49 AM
#10
Right. No, you don't need an extended chassis for a mid-tank. You can just use the stock TVPs. In fact you don't really need a mid-tank at all, although it's great for people that can't seem to properly tune their truck otherwise. All you need is a couple pieces of aluminum (or plastic), and a method of cutting and drilling it, screws, some linkage, and a tank. Hate to contradict anyone, but the "mid tank lean" that people talk about is not caused by "fuel being above the carb for half the tank, then dipping below it". If that was the cause, every rc vehicle in existence would act in a similar manner. The "issue" is caused by a variance in hydro-pneumatic pressure, when the pressure exchange area goes from ~5.5 sq" (@ full to half tank) to ~3.25 sq" as it drops below the step in the tank. A decrease in PE area = a corresponding decrease in pressure. Simple. And yes there are (partial) kits out there but personally, I wouldn't spend money on any of the kits that I've seen so far.
¢
¢Doing the "Mid-Tank Mod" does not guarantee it will eliminate the "Half-Tank-Lean" problem...
What I did was I shortened my back-pressure fuel tubing (it's about 5~6" in length) and added a "One-Way-Valve" (those plane guys use) just before the tank-cap; and also shortened the fuel line going to the carburetter.
By doing the above mentioned; the fuel tank "pressure" is constantly being maintained (pressurized), it can prevent the "Half-Tank-Lean" issue...
A thing to note is, often it is the other that causes problem...make sure your fuel tank cap's O-Ring (seal) is not hardened, many problem starts from it, check periodically by closing one end of the fuel line, and blow air from the other to check the integrity of the seal...
Just my experience.
08-26-2010, 07:12 AM
#11
So for about 15 bones I could fix my half tank lean issuse? ! :-)
08-26-2010, 12:05 PM
#12
Right. No, you don't need an extended chassis for a mid-tank. You can just use the stock TVPs. In fact you don't really need a mid-tank at all, although it's great for people that can't seem to properly tune their truck otherwise. All you need is a couple pieces of aluminum (or plastic), and a method of cutting and drilling it, screws, some linkage, and a tank. Hate to contradict anyone, but the "mid tank lean" that people talk about is not caused by "fuel being above the carb for half the tank, then dipping below it". If that was the cause, every rc vehicle in existence would act in a similar manner. The "issue" is caused by a variance in hydro-pneumatic pressure, when the pressure exchange area goes from ~5.5 sq" (@ full to half tank) to ~3.25 sq" as it drops below the step in the tank. A decrease in PE area = a corresponding decrease in pressure. Simple. And yes there are (partial) kits out there but personally, I wouldn't spend money on any of the kits that I've seen so far.
¢
¢
The tank is just a bad design on the Savage, and placement is poor.
08-26-2010, 01:31 PM
#15
What if we just run it alittle extra rich from the start? Is this a bad idea? And if I did run it alittle extra rich would I need to tune at half tank?