Winter Weather/ Glow Plugs...
11-13-2009, 06:50 AM
#1
Winter Weather/ Glow Plugs...
I'd like to run my LosiXXL this winter and was wondering which plugs you would recommend.
The climate will be between 30F - 50F, low humidity and very close to sea level.
What plug brand and model would work well on the 454?
Thanks in advance...
The climate will be between 30F - 50F, low humidity and very close to sea level.
What plug brand and model would work well on the 454?
Thanks in advance...
11-15-2009, 11:36 AM
#3
Well because of colder temps you can run a medium hot plug like..
http://osengines.com/accys/glowplugs.html
No.7
does your engine use turbo or normal plugs?
http://osengines.com/accys/glowplugs.html
No.7
does your engine use turbo or normal plugs?
11-15-2009, 04:30 PM
#4
Plug this and plug that hehehe....I have run many different engines.....Where I live it can be 110 in the summer and 30-50 in the winter and I run hot plugs all yr long...os p3s for my turbo plugs and in standard plugs mc 8 and 59`s
Try running a os8 in your 454..Thats all I ran in my mach engines
Try running a os8 in your 454..Thats all I ran in my mach engines
11-15-2009, 07:37 PM
#5
Tech Rookie
i drove my tmaxx all day yesterday, and it was around 40 degrees (rough estimate but it was COLD) and it was fine, i just had to mess with tuning a bit, but it sat awhile before that
11-16-2009, 10:38 AM
#7
It's a stock 454...
McCoy8 or OS8? What fuel are you guys using?
The motor is brand new and has not been run yet. I want to use a good plug and fuel combo to break it in and tune it.
McCoy8 or OS8? What fuel are you guys using?
The motor is brand new and has not been run yet. I want to use a good plug and fuel combo to break it in and tune it.
11-16-2009, 12:13 PM
#9
11-16-2009, 02:06 PM
#10
Don't know what they put in it stock but try it if you have a hard time try the mc59 for break in only though. You also may have to give the low speed needle a few hours of leaning from stock break in settings to get it to idle.
What break in method do you plan on using? I recomend the heat cycling method myself.
quick over view of the method can be found here. http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=397
What break in method do you plan on using? I recomend the heat cycling method myself.
quick over view of the method can be found here. http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=397
11-16-2009, 07:11 PM
#11
This is the break in method I like to use..I have super sucess with it..Yes you can use the plug that came with the engine to break it in..Although I would suggest changing it out to a OS# 8, MC#8 or MC #59 before you start getting a good tune on it
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
11-17-2009, 06:38 AM
#12
Thanks everyone for the plug advice.
11-17-2009, 06:43 AM
#13
This is the break in method I like to use..I have super sucess with it..Yes you can use the plug that came with the engine to break it in..Although I would suggest changing it out to a OS# 8, MC#8 or MC #59 before you start getting a good tune on it
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
A few questions;
1) Would it be OK to use this method in a cooler climate? Say 50F?
2) "Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down. " --- When you say "full throttle" ... do you mean on the ground or on a stand?
3) What would the ideal engine temperature be before starting the break-in process? Stock Losi 454... and if needed I will wrap the cooling head to retain some of the heat.
Thanks in advance.
11-17-2009, 10:38 AM
#14
190 F is the temp you want to get it up to for starting the break in and run it up to about 220. That break in method has a few flaws in it. It would work if you are in a rush to break it in but a slower process works best break in on most of my motors is anywhere between 3/4 and a whole gallon.
A motor is not fully broken in and ready for a race tune till you can pull the plug and turn the motor over freely by hand with no pinch at the top of the sleeve. at that point you are ready for an all out race tune.
Here is what I recomend for break in.
Set carb opening to 1mm gap w/ full break applied. Set both hsn and lsn to flush (This is break in settings on 95% of motors) Use a high quality fuel such as byrons 20-30% nitro and 11% oil.
Start it and alow it to idle through 1 tank of fuel making sure engine temps do not go above 230 F. This alows for all the parts to get nicely lubercated and to knock down and burs that their may be in the motor.
For the second tank of fuel put the truck down on the ground and start it. Do slow figure eights or whatever verying the throtal between 0 and 1/4 throtal being sure temps go above 190 and running it up to about 210 than shutting it off put the piston at botom dead center and alow it to cool completely. Start it back up once it is cooled and repeat this process for the rest of the first 1/3 gallon of fuel. ( If you are not getting the temps up to at least 190 you are not mating the piston to the sleeve at all. Lean it out on the hsn 1 hour at a time till you can get the temps up)
For the second 1/3 of a gallon do the same as above but taking it up to 1/2 throtal. ( be sure to do this smoothly and don't blip the throtal)
For the last 1/3 of a gallon you are going to be doing wot passes keeping your temps under 240 but slowly leaning out the hsn for proformance.
Here is a great link for engine tunning written up by Robin of ERCM.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums...ad.php?t=12260
By the time you are done you will have a well tuned fully broken in motor that will last you for many gallons.
One other thing is that on a fully broken in motor after it cools I set the piston to top dead center to seal off the exsust port of the motor to keep air out.
At the end of the season I will put a drop of after run oil down the glow plug hole and in the carb and turn the motor over a few times to lubercate it and seal it up in a ziplock bag till next season. After run oil is not needed if you are going to be running your motor again within two or three weeks.
A motor is not fully broken in and ready for a race tune till you can pull the plug and turn the motor over freely by hand with no pinch at the top of the sleeve. at that point you are ready for an all out race tune.
Here is what I recomend for break in.
Set carb opening to 1mm gap w/ full break applied. Set both hsn and lsn to flush (This is break in settings on 95% of motors) Use a high quality fuel such as byrons 20-30% nitro and 11% oil.
Start it and alow it to idle through 1 tank of fuel making sure engine temps do not go above 230 F. This alows for all the parts to get nicely lubercated and to knock down and burs that their may be in the motor.
For the second tank of fuel put the truck down on the ground and start it. Do slow figure eights or whatever verying the throtal between 0 and 1/4 throtal being sure temps go above 190 and running it up to about 210 than shutting it off put the piston at botom dead center and alow it to cool completely. Start it back up once it is cooled and repeat this process for the rest of the first 1/3 gallon of fuel. ( If you are not getting the temps up to at least 190 you are not mating the piston to the sleeve at all. Lean it out on the hsn 1 hour at a time till you can get the temps up)
For the second 1/3 of a gallon do the same as above but taking it up to 1/2 throtal. ( be sure to do this smoothly and don't blip the throtal)
For the last 1/3 of a gallon you are going to be doing wot passes keeping your temps under 240 but slowly leaning out the hsn for proformance.
Here is a great link for engine tunning written up by Robin of ERCM.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums...ad.php?t=12260
By the time you are done you will have a well tuned fully broken in motor that will last you for many gallons.
One other thing is that on a fully broken in motor after it cools I set the piston to top dead center to seal off the exsust port of the motor to keep air out.
At the end of the season I will put a drop of after run oil down the glow plug hole and in the carb and turn the motor over a few times to lubercate it and seal it up in a ziplock bag till next season. After run oil is not needed if you are going to be running your motor again within two or three weeks.
11-17-2009, 10:48 AM
#15
190 F is the temp you want to get it up to for starting the break in and run it up to about 220. That break in method has a few flaws in it. It would work if you are in a rush to break it in but a slower process works best break in on most of my motors is anywhere between 3/4 and a whole gallon.
A motor is not fully broken in and ready for a race tune till you can pull the plug and turn the motor over freely by hand with no pinch at the top of the sleeve. at that point you are ready for an all out race tune.
Here is what I recomend for break in.
Set carb opening to 1mm gap w/ full break applied. Set both hsn and lsn to flush (This is break in settings on 95% of motors) Use a high quality fuel such as byrons 20-30% nitro and 11% oil.
Start it and alow it to idle through 1 tank of fuel making sure engine temps do not go above 230 F. This alows for all the parts to get nicely lubercated and to knock down and burs that their may be in the motor.
For the second tank of fuel put the truck down on the ground and start it. Do slow figure eights or whatever verying the throtal between 0 and 1/4 throtal being sure temps go above 190 and running it up to about 210 than shutting it off put the piston at botom dead center and alow it to cool completely. Start it back up once it is cooled and repeat this process for the rest of the first 1/3 gallon of fuel. ( If you are not getting the temps up to at least 190 you are not mating the piston to the sleeve at all. Lean it out on the hsn 1 hour at a time till you can get the temps up)
For the second 1/3 of a gallon do the same as above but taking it up to 1/2 throtal. ( be sure to do this smoothly and don't blip the throtal)
For the last 1/3 of a gallon you are going to be doing wot passes keeping your temps under 240 but slowly leaning out the hsn for proformance.
Here is a great link for engine tunning written up by Robin of ERCM.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums...ad.php?t=12260
By the time you are done you will have a well tuned fully broken in motor that will last you for many gallons.
One other thing is that on a fully broken in motor after it cools I set the piston to top dead center to seal off the exsust port of the motor to keep air out.
At the end of the season I will put a drop of after run oil down the glow plug hole and in the carb and turn the motor over a few times to lubercate it and seal it up in a ziplock bag till next season. After run oil is not needed if you are going to be running your motor again within two or three weeks.
A motor is not fully broken in and ready for a race tune till you can pull the plug and turn the motor over freely by hand with no pinch at the top of the sleeve. at that point you are ready for an all out race tune.
Here is what I recomend for break in.
Set carb opening to 1mm gap w/ full break applied. Set both hsn and lsn to flush (This is break in settings on 95% of motors) Use a high quality fuel such as byrons 20-30% nitro and 11% oil.
Start it and alow it to idle through 1 tank of fuel making sure engine temps do not go above 230 F. This alows for all the parts to get nicely lubercated and to knock down and burs that their may be in the motor.
For the second tank of fuel put the truck down on the ground and start it. Do slow figure eights or whatever verying the throtal between 0 and 1/4 throtal being sure temps go above 190 and running it up to about 210 than shutting it off put the piston at botom dead center and alow it to cool completely. Start it back up once it is cooled and repeat this process for the rest of the first 1/3 gallon of fuel. ( If you are not getting the temps up to at least 190 you are not mating the piston to the sleeve at all. Lean it out on the hsn 1 hour at a time till you can get the temps up)
For the second 1/3 of a gallon do the same as above but taking it up to 1/2 throtal. ( be sure to do this smoothly and don't blip the throtal)
For the last 1/3 of a gallon you are going to be doing wot passes keeping your temps under 240 but slowly leaning out the hsn for proformance.
Here is a great link for engine tunning written up by Robin of ERCM.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums...ad.php?t=12260
By the time you are done you will have a well tuned fully broken in motor that will last you for many gallons.
One other thing is that on a fully broken in motor after it cools I set the piston to top dead center to seal off the exsust port of the motor to keep air out.
At the end of the season I will put a drop of after run oil down the glow plug hole and in the carb and turn the motor over a few times to lubercate it and seal it up in a ziplock bag till next season. After run oil is not needed if you are going to be running your motor again within two or three weeks.
Should I even bother trying to break it in with the weather around our parts? It's around 50F today... Can I get the engine up to 190?