LST2 Fwd/Rvse problem + other random questions
02-07-2006, 04:40 PM
#1
LST2 Fwd/Rvse problem + other random questions
Howdy folks,
First of all, quite often (9 times out of 10) when I try to switch between forward and reverse on my LST2 it wont change. It gets stuck in neutral and when I rev it (to drive in my selected direction, but of course it just sits there reving its tits off) I can hear rattly sounds. I'd imagine the rattly sounds are due to it almost/trying to engage the gear, so I'm not overly worried about that. But can anyone point out how I can solve this problem? It's quite annoying and probably damaging the gears.
I have other questions, but can't think of too many right now.
One was what brands are good to look at for alu parts? So far I have only broken a steering shaft (not sure what they're called) and a steering block. I replaced the shaft so now I have a spare shaft and two spare shaft ends and I glued the steering block back together and with one brief test run it seems ok, but I am thinking it may be worth upgrading to alu steering blocks. The only ones I could find were the Dynamite ones sold by horizon hobbies, I'm not even sure that they will mail them to me (down under).
The other question is in regards to tuning. The engine seemed to hesitate for brief moments, like it was misfiring. So I leaned the high speed needle out a bit and that stopped it to a certain extent, but it still does it every now and again, seemingly when it gets hot. It is still putting out thick smoke, can I continue leaning it out so long as it keeps blowing thick smoke?
First of all, quite often (9 times out of 10) when I try to switch between forward and reverse on my LST2 it wont change. It gets stuck in neutral and when I rev it (to drive in my selected direction, but of course it just sits there reving its tits off) I can hear rattly sounds. I'd imagine the rattly sounds are due to it almost/trying to engage the gear, so I'm not overly worried about that. But can anyone point out how I can solve this problem? It's quite annoying and probably damaging the gears.
I have other questions, but can't think of too many right now.
One was what brands are good to look at for alu parts? So far I have only broken a steering shaft (not sure what they're called) and a steering block. I replaced the shaft so now I have a spare shaft and two spare shaft ends and I glued the steering block back together and with one brief test run it seems ok, but I am thinking it may be worth upgrading to alu steering blocks. The only ones I could find were the Dynamite ones sold by horizon hobbies, I'm not even sure that they will mail them to me (down under).
The other question is in regards to tuning. The engine seemed to hesitate for brief moments, like it was misfiring. So I leaned the high speed needle out a bit and that stopped it to a certain extent, but it still does it every now and again, seemingly when it gets hot. It is still putting out thick smoke, can I continue leaning it out so long as it keeps blowing thick smoke?
02-07-2006, 05:11 PM
#2
Tech Apprentice
is the servo going to the reverse thingy binding on something?
02-07-2006, 05:25 PM
#3
Nope, it appears to be moving back and forth freely just as it was before the problem started. Maybe there is some way of adjusting it? Or could I have buggered a setting in the transmitter by bumping batteries that is limiting the servo stroke?
02-07-2006, 05:30 PM
#4
in regards to the fwd/rvrs prblem, i havent seen a revers module on a savage in action but i know t-maxxes have that problem and its common among them. so it may be just a problem r/c cars have getting into reverse. like wake said check the servo to see if its having any problems. if it seems to be stopping when it tries to switch you may want a more powerful one or just dont use reverse.
im sure lunsford makes Ti turnbuckles for the lst2 by now or just use any 92MM x 4.5 turnbuckle (assuming your reffering to the turnbuckles as steering shafts) and it doesnt appear horizon ships internationally. you can call them and see what they can do for you or browse around other sites or ask an LHS.
In regards to your engine, it sounds like its too rich. just keep leaning it out till the engine runs good. really if the engne is running good then it probably isnt getting hot. but still make sure its making a noticeable trail of smoke.
im sure lunsford makes Ti turnbuckles for the lst2 by now or just use any 92MM x 4.5 turnbuckle (assuming your reffering to the turnbuckles as steering shafts) and it doesnt appear horizon ships internationally. you can call them and see what they can do for you or browse around other sites or ask an LHS.
In regards to your engine, it sounds like its too rich. just keep leaning it out till the engine runs good. really if the engne is running good then it probably isnt getting hot. but still make sure its making a noticeable trail of smoke.
02-07-2006, 06:29 PM
#5
Thanks for that info. Indeed I was refering to the turnbuckles when I said shafts. At the moment I have a spare one, but I have bookmarked lunsford for future reference.
I guess I would be better off with Ti steering blocks too, I forgot that you can get Ti parts. Can anyone tell me where to look for Ti hop-ups for the LST2? Or even where I should watch out for them to appear as they become available?
With the fwd/rvrs problem - I was just at home for lunch and triple checked the servo was doing it's job and as far as I can tell it is moving the selector to the full extent that it should be. That means the problem is likely to be an internal one. I do like to use reverse and would like to be able to do so in future, should I be thinking about a warranty repair? Perhaps I should ring the HS I bought it from and have a chat to the bloke there and see what he thinks.
I guess I would be better off with Ti steering blocks too, I forgot that you can get Ti parts. Can anyone tell me where to look for Ti hop-ups for the LST2? Or even where I should watch out for them to appear as they become available?
With the fwd/rvrs problem - I was just at home for lunch and triple checked the servo was doing it's job and as far as I can tell it is moving the selector to the full extent that it should be. That means the problem is likely to be an internal one. I do like to use reverse and would like to be able to do so in future, should I be thinking about a warranty repair? Perhaps I should ring the HS I bought it from and have a chat to the bloke there and see what he thinks.
02-07-2006, 06:44 PM
#6
yea talk to your lhs about it. they actually dont make steering blcoks in Ti. to difficult to machine, it isnt practical for most companies. we are probably lucky we are getting as much titanium parts as it is. your only real option is an aluminum set.
02-07-2006, 07:08 PM
#7
Ah ok. What are the better brands for aluminium parts then?
At least I can get the turnbuckles in Ti when I run out of them
At least I can get the turnbuckles in Ti when I run out of them
02-09-2006, 02:11 AM
#9
well realy any kind of brand that makes alloy parts is the same there all alloy,they all fit,they all do the job, there all the same crap
and for the fwd reverse thing i think u should try enable/disable it like 2 or 3 times wen u try use it OR if u have tried hitting reverse at a higher speed u MAY have chewed up ur gears or snapped some teeth i know it mite sound stupid to do that but at one stage we all get so excited we wana do somthing stupid LOL i know wen i put my .21 in my dragster i done a nice long donut and chewed up the rear diff [im so stupid]
so yeah i would recomend pulling it apart and having a look at it
or the best solution to all ur problems would be sell/throw away the LST2 and buy a SAVAGE 4.6 SS and chip in like another 50 bucks for the reverse module and instead of buying 2 channel radio buy 3 !!!! then u dont worry about breaking any parts !!!
and for the fwd reverse thing i think u should try enable/disable it like 2 or 3 times wen u try use it OR if u have tried hitting reverse at a higher speed u MAY have chewed up ur gears or snapped some teeth i know it mite sound stupid to do that but at one stage we all get so excited we wana do somthing stupid LOL i know wen i put my .21 in my dragster i done a nice long donut and chewed up the rear diff [im so stupid]
so yeah i would recomend pulling it apart and having a look at it
or the best solution to all ur problems would be sell/throw away the LST2 and buy a SAVAGE 4.6 SS and chip in like another 50 bucks for the reverse module and instead of buying 2 channel radio buy 3 !!!! then u dont worry about breaking any parts !!!
02-09-2006, 07:34 AM
#10
First, my experience has been that all companies are not equal. Two companies I refuse to buy from are Integy and Hot Racing. All the parts I have bought from those two have been of extremely poor quality.
As far as getting parts in Oz, check out http://www.killerhobbies.com They will ship to you and they have some of the best prices on the net (U.S.).
For the forward and reverse, remove the servo linkage and push the selector by hand and see if you can get it to engage. I've seen several times where the AUX channel on the TX had the EPA set so that the tranny wouldn't engage. If that doesn't do the trick, the shift fork may be worn. Its a Y shaped piece in the tranny that moves the gears from fwd to rvs and back.
Bad A$$ Creations makes a steering link that you can't break. Its $10 US at Killer. Ive never broken a bell crank, but Dynamite makes good stuff, and you can get that kit at Killer as well.
If you are seeing lots of smoke, and you are still running hot (over 250F), you may have an air leak. Make sure that the glow plug is in tight and that the head cooler is fully tightened down. If those don't do the trick, go see your LHS and let them know you think you might have an air leak and could they please show you how to seal everything up.
Good Luck!
As far as getting parts in Oz, check out http://www.killerhobbies.com They will ship to you and they have some of the best prices on the net (U.S.).
For the forward and reverse, remove the servo linkage and push the selector by hand and see if you can get it to engage. I've seen several times where the AUX channel on the TX had the EPA set so that the tranny wouldn't engage. If that doesn't do the trick, the shift fork may be worn. Its a Y shaped piece in the tranny that moves the gears from fwd to rvs and back.
Bad A$$ Creations makes a steering link that you can't break. Its $10 US at Killer. Ive never broken a bell crank, but Dynamite makes good stuff, and you can get that kit at Killer as well.
If you are seeing lots of smoke, and you are still running hot (over 250F), you may have an air leak. Make sure that the glow plug is in tight and that the head cooler is fully tightened down. If those don't do the trick, go see your LHS and let them know you think you might have an air leak and could they please show you how to seal everything up.
Good Luck!
02-09-2006, 07:46 AM
#11
Originally Posted by LSTracerX
First, my experience has been that all companies are not equal. Two companies I refuse to buy from are Integy and Hot Racing. All the parts I have bought from those two have been of extremely poor quality.
add 3racing to that list also
some of the best stuff out there is hardcore there is a reason why you will pay so much for it,its the best
02-13-2006, 04:22 AM
#12
Update Time.
I've now both fiddled with the end point adjustment and pulled the tranny apart to check for damage.
There is nothing damaged inside the tranny. The end point adjustment 'seems' fine. It pushes the shift lever to it's limit in both directions. That is, except for when the teeth on the selector are inline with the teeth on the gear it is trying to engage. When this happens, the servo and shift lever get stuck in that position and hence the shifter is not engaging forward OR reverse and the tranny gets stuck in a false neutral.
Now, I am hoping this is a better description of what is happening and will enable some of you to help me solve this, because as I have said I would like to keep reverse and I don't want to have to go to the truck and push it with my foot 9 out of 10 times when I want to change drive direction. So, do I simply need to put more force on the shift lever through EPA so that when the teeth on the selector and gear meet rather than mesh, the spring in the servo saver will keep force on the shift lever and push it into gear when I accelerate and drop into gear when I do just that (accelerate).
I am hoping the above is the case, otherwise I don't see any explanation on how it could work. There has to be something in place for when the gears don't just happen to mesh together right?
I've now both fiddled with the end point adjustment and pulled the tranny apart to check for damage.
There is nothing damaged inside the tranny. The end point adjustment 'seems' fine. It pushes the shift lever to it's limit in both directions. That is, except for when the teeth on the selector are inline with the teeth on the gear it is trying to engage. When this happens, the servo and shift lever get stuck in that position and hence the shifter is not engaging forward OR reverse and the tranny gets stuck in a false neutral.
Now, I am hoping this is a better description of what is happening and will enable some of you to help me solve this, because as I have said I would like to keep reverse and I don't want to have to go to the truck and push it with my foot 9 out of 10 times when I want to change drive direction. So, do I simply need to put more force on the shift lever through EPA so that when the teeth on the selector and gear meet rather than mesh, the spring in the servo saver will keep force on the shift lever and push it into gear when I accelerate and drop into gear when I do just that (accelerate).
I am hoping the above is the case, otherwise I don't see any explanation on how it could work. There has to be something in place for when the gears don't just happen to mesh together right?
02-13-2006, 01:01 PM
#14
Yep I've tried both those things, bliping the throttle doesn't help, because the servo isn't pushing it anymore as the remaining movement which the shift lever has not travelled is soaked up by the servo saver. Holding the brakes comes down to pot luck in wether or not the gears just happen to mesh, it usually doesn't work either 
02-19-2006, 03:28 AM
#15
Just an update for those interested.
I pulled the tranny apart to check for damage and there was none. So, I put a stronger spring in the servo saver on the fwd/reverse servo and bumped up the EPA a little more. It now changes directions flawlessly.
Thanks for all the help
I pulled the tranny apart to check for damage and there was none. So, I put a stronger spring in the servo saver on the fwd/reverse servo and bumped up the EPA a little more. It now changes directions flawlessly.
Thanks for all the help