yo man u know how u hadto cut out a slot in the back of your body for the wing? i was gona do exactly the same thing on my savage but instead i cut a shape thats looks likea H and i can slip the mounts through the body but thing is i have to take the wing off wen i want to..... but its very nice and looks very neat ! i like your body andiis that a T maxx? i didnt want to lose the nice silver stripeson my savage lol it looks nice tho andi still got the HPI RACING on the back and if i want to uninstallthe wing later on i dont have a huge slot missing out the back of my truck lol
and onroad dude i tried acetone but it didnt work lol the tyress wer bonded WAY tooooo good i didnt use CAi used magic super glue and that stuff bonds like mad so i just cut the rings from the rim and sliced the tyre off the rim with a brand new Xacto™ blade
Like to drive at night? I sure do. My Tmaxx runs an Mach 26 big block,integy MSR4 shocks Traxxas 4 MM chassis,many dynamite alloy bits,bulkhead,braces,mounts,full set of RRP drive bits,bell,slipper,spur,tranny gears Pro-line MAXX Masher tires on PL rims,cvd shafts hpi 70 El Camino body with 14 led lighting system 4head,4 on the motor,tank,2 running,2 brake and 2 reverse. It is real neat to see running in the dark. with all the lights running the 3 cell radio phone battery will last 4+ hrs. The whole system is very light and attached to the underside of the roof.
Last edited by Masher1; 03-03-2006 at 08:18 PM.
Reason: new photo
hey masher1 wer did u get that light kit? did u make it yourself or wat? im thinking about going to my local dicksmitch and buying some PCB and making my own circuit for some LEDS and stuff
This pcb came from a head-light i found at a hardware store. Princess Auto i think
the pcb has 3 settings 2-4-8 off paid 7.99 cdn. If you use this type of circut it runs the LED's as bright as possable. there is a chip that fires the LED in a way to make them much brighter. Brighter and longer than just using a load resistor alone. This type of light should be easy to get.
and how exactly did u wire it up to make it work? was it hard? im good with eletronics but i just cbf pulling shiz apart and doing stuff if its hard i cbf doing it lol
With this as a source for a pcb the photo of the whole unit
i just removed 4 of the 8 led's the inner ones. then i added legnths of wire to suit and re-attached the led's to the legnths of wire (i used IDE computer cable for durability) then soldered them into the holes the LED's were in poliarty counts. I also glued down the ends of the wire to the PCB to prevent the wire from breaking off from movement. The photo with the arrow points to a surface mount load resistor added. This bit will require a low wattage iron and some fine tweezers but it is not too hard to replace if your carefull not to roast the PCB too much. I soldered the wires in place and left this points wires un-cliped and used them to hold the reisitor in place and reheat the solder to the risistor ends clip short the wires. Add a battery and jack a select switch and an on off switch to prevent discharging while not in use. The small circle PCB is to fire the amber lights that require diffrent loads than the white ones. over all this system is very flexable and can do many lighting jobs for real cheap. the 2 led kit that the shopps sell is 29.00$ cdn for 2 LED and PCB and 9v clip. mine cost 7.99 for 8 LED's with park lo-beam/hi-beam/interior light options to boot. This sort of device to run LED's is becoming more and more aval. I used RS crome LED Bezels to keep them in the body (small rubber bits make them removable from the bezel if needed)
I sure hope this may get you out after dark tearing up the eveining.
Next i need an adjustable brake switch and the reverse light switch.
Just got this one home today!! Genesis ( new version) 46, monster. Only had its first tank so far, hope to be mashing soon though... I want to get a new body for it pretty soon, even though this is the limited edition silver ( wow)
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