RC TTwins

iTrader: (43)

Getting the minis back up and running!

SpinRush_C1

I hate to have to make my introduction to this forum like this, but here we go.

I purchased the LOSI MINI 8ight DB. I open the box 2 days ago. This is my first LOSI product and it's been a bit shady from the start. I own a Typhon 6S and Team Associated Reflex 14B. This is my first car by LOSI.


I had high hopes. I made space on the shelf and drawer space for all the little things.

RTR = Ready to Run. NO, not at all. I'll save the best for last though.


The Ni-Mh battery - 10 hours to charge. Pfft I got connecters and I'm overcharging as fast as I can. I don't have 10 hours to charge anything. I don't even sleep that long. That sucks.


The Plastic Tool - Really? I'm sorry but Team Associated 14B Reflex Combo set comes with some pretty decent tools and plenty of spare parts. Not a good look.


The Steering Servo - Full battery connected, hit the "ON" switch and suddenly the wheels turned to the left. Everything on the controller was centered out. Well, the steering servo seems very off. Not centered at all. It's a pain to get to it as well. They zip tied everything to the lengthwise center bar. I had to cut those then unscrew practically everything just to get access to the servo. Problem isn't solved yet. I'm worried I may overcrank the steering servo when I do center it out.


Any advice about this issue? If it's already been solved please link me.


I guess I'm in a special LOSI club now. I hope the LOSI Tenacity DB Pro 1/10 doesn't have these same issues.

Backyard RC

Losi and Team Associated in my opinion seem to have an approach with their RTR's that several items like the servo need replacing almost immediately. The good news is that after a few upgrades the M8-DB is a pretty fun rc car.

Have you taken the servo horn off and let the servo center before putting it back on?

SpinRush_C1

Yeah, I got that done last night. Pain in the butt. What’s worse is the more you take this thing apart the looser it gets. Where’s the locktite? Gonna need it. One Basher here said it perfectly, it’s “Ready to Rebuild”. This did not happen with my Reflex 14B. That buggy is solid. All I had to do was adjust the shocks to my liking. Adjustments, not repairs.

After reading so many posts here this is what I picked up:
Get a Robinson Steel Spur or equivalent.
Strap the antenna outside the car if you aren’t upgrading soon.
3S is going to blow the motor and maybe more. Stay 2S
My dogbones are going to bend faster than I imagine. Buy replacements beforehand.
These screws strip easily. Once you are done doing mods use blue locktite.
When you get your brand new M8 DB, be ready to recenter your servo horn.
You’ll need more zip ties if you want to keep everything neat in there.
Did I miss anything?

It’s a beautiful looking machine. It’s just sad to imagine there will be such bad days ahead in it’s life. I think the 1/14 scale is taking off. I’ll take a chance on the LC Racing 1/14 now.

Backyard RC

If you get a steel spur you'll need a steel pinion as well. In fact you should get a few sizes. 14t to 16t
I used a body reamer to put holes in the passenger part of the body, right behind the seat. This will help with motor temps. 2S only on this motor.
You'll want to use blue locktite on any metal to metal screws. The grub screws on the center drive shaft drive cups need it immediately.
The dog bones are so soft that you can usually straighten them back out fairly easily.
Other than that it works pretty good. Keep in mind the scale of these things and you'll have a fun time with it.

targetingxmod

FDHog

Being quarantined and bored, I started to work onsite of my trucks. The DB needed some attention. The shocks were crap out of the box and the servo sucked.
Put in Hitec 5245MG. Needed a little modding to get it in right.
Biggest improvement was the shocks. They were stiff and kept sticking. Took them apart and the insides had burrs and the pistons in two of them were chewed up.
Rebuilt them and put 20W in the rear and 25W in the front. Now this thing is the way it should've been as an RTR.
Next on line is my 14B. Looking for metal shocks for that.

vsquaredbyrho

The stock 1200mah nimh battery on my new Mini 8ight-DB is over 170°F after a run. The motor is 130°F and the ESC is 110°F, both stock. I'm still using the stock gearing. What could be the root cause?

I run mostly on my asphalt driveway with 30 second jaunts into the yard with short scrubby grass. I read about overheating issues, so I have already removed the black plastic cockpit piece. The wheels turn easily by hand off the ground.

Backyard RC

A NIMH battery does get hot as it unloads it's charge. You might want to take a look at lipo batteries. A 2S battery will give you more power from the start and that power will stay constant. Do a little research on lipo battery safety and then you'll be ready to go. The esc may need an adjustment to run lipo batteries too.

vsquaredbyrho

Thanks, BackyardRC. I'm actively searching right now for a 2S lipo that would fit (and be in stock). I've discovered the Turnigy batteries from HobbyKing that are much cheaper than the ones Horizon sells. I just have to triple check that the size will work with the small battery compartment.

It just seems strange that the provided nimh battery in an RTR kit would get so incredibly hot. I wish I had taken the battery temp on the first run for comparison. Maybe it's always been like that and I just didn't notice.

Backyard RC

I think 92mm is the max length and 26mm height for battery size.

sms0613

Looking for any recommendations for a suitable 2S LIPO that would fit the M8 DB chassis. Running the stock ESC and motor. Thanks!

vsquaredbyrho

The battery compartment on the Mini8ight-DB can be shortened to about 90mm long. You'll have to unscrew the rear battery holder from below and shift it to the other set of holes. Also, drill a new hole in the hold-down bar so you can secure the battery safely.
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