Mini-Z LiPo conversion.
#1
Mini-Z LiPo conversion.
Greetings!
I was wondering if I could mod my Mini-Z AWD MA-010 to use lipo batteries. So I ordered a 2S 300mAh battery and a UBEC 5v/5A.
I installed everything and it sometimes works. I'll explain myself. When the car is free of load, that's not on the track, the motor runs nice, smooth and faster than before. The problem comes when it is on the track, under load, and the motor doesn't want to start working. It's "coughs" many times and then it starts to spin, sometimes but only with the battery in storage mode. The curious thing is that with a fully charged LiPo, the motor just coughs, it doesn't get to spin.
As I could see, the Mini-Z ASF electronics can handle up to 6v, so the 5.4v that the UBEC is giving should be alright (even being more that I wished). Also, the motor shouldn't draw more than 5A being a 48T, unless the UBEC can't provide what it states.
Can you help me isolate the issue? With the AAA batteries it works ok, the thing is I want to get rid of them and use LiPos.
Thanks!
I was wondering if I could mod my Mini-Z AWD MA-010 to use lipo batteries. So I ordered a 2S 300mAh battery and a UBEC 5v/5A.
I installed everything and it sometimes works. I'll explain myself. When the car is free of load, that's not on the track, the motor runs nice, smooth and faster than before. The problem comes when it is on the track, under load, and the motor doesn't want to start working. It's "coughs" many times and then it starts to spin, sometimes but only with the battery in storage mode. The curious thing is that with a fully charged LiPo, the motor just coughs, it doesn't get to spin.
As I could see, the Mini-Z ASF electronics can handle up to 6v, so the 5.4v that the UBEC is giving should be alright (even being more that I wished). Also, the motor shouldn't draw more than 5A being a 48T, unless the UBEC can't provide what it states.
Can you help me isolate the issue? With the AAA batteries it works ok, the thing is I want to get rid of them and use LiPos.
Thanks!
#2
You should use the specific 6.6v life baterys. It will be totally safe and more faster then 4 AAA's, even if using the R1Wurks 750uho! (the mother of racing AAA's)
For what i know... i have been into Miniz since i am into RC's... the lipo 2s = 7.4v will work fine only on AM 27mhz boards....not the ASF 2.4ghz! And on the AM 27mhz boards potenciometer will dye in a year of use it with lipos 2s.
I never tried a 2s lipo = 7.4v on ASF 2,4ghz boards.... it could work but is a high risk of damage.
See some of mine with those miniz 6.6v life baterys over the years...even xmods with miniz boards!!
-In here i have the AM 27mhz board...but later changed to a ASF 2.4ghz...
-That is my Miniz Monster!
-One of my GEN1 Xmods with AM 27mhz miniz board with 6.6s 2s li-fe baterys
-My Miniz AWD AM 27mhz board with 6.6v 2s li-fe baterys...
-My ASF 2.4ghz board with 6.6v 2s li-fe baterys on one of my evo xmods.
-One of my ASF 2.4ghz boards on a Gen1 Xmod with 6.6v 2s li-fe baterys...
-This one uses a li-po 2s 7.4v but the board is a Losi Micro Board. Total safe for 2s lipos 7.4v....
-My xmod Evo truck with ASF 2,4ghz board with 6.6v li-fe baterys
And this is my brushless xmod with ASF 2.4gz VE brushless board with 2s li-fe 6.6v baterys...
For what i know... i have been into Miniz since i am into RC's... the lipo 2s = 7.4v will work fine only on AM 27mhz boards....not the ASF 2.4ghz! And on the AM 27mhz boards potenciometer will dye in a year of use it with lipos 2s.
I never tried a 2s lipo = 7.4v on ASF 2,4ghz boards.... it could work but is a high risk of damage.
See some of mine with those miniz 6.6v life baterys over the years...even xmods with miniz boards!!
-In here i have the AM 27mhz board...but later changed to a ASF 2.4ghz...
-That is my Miniz Monster!
-One of my GEN1 Xmods with AM 27mhz miniz board with 6.6s 2s li-fe baterys
-My Miniz AWD AM 27mhz board with 6.6v 2s li-fe baterys...
-My ASF 2.4ghz board with 6.6v 2s li-fe baterys on one of my evo xmods.
-One of my ASF 2.4ghz boards on a Gen1 Xmod with 6.6v 2s li-fe baterys...
-This one uses a li-po 2s 7.4v but the board is a Losi Micro Board. Total safe for 2s lipos 7.4v....
-My xmod Evo truck with ASF 2,4ghz board with 6.6v li-fe baterys
+ YouTube Video | |
And this is my brushless xmod with ASF 2.4gz VE brushless board with 2s li-fe 6.6v baterys...
+ YouTube Video | |
Last edited by targetingxmod; 07-02-2016 at 08:24 AM.
#3
Thanks for the answer, targetingxmod. I appreciate the time you used to write all that. That's a nice "bunch" you have.
Anyway, that doesn't help me with the question I asked. I knew about LiFe batteries (Route 246), and I also know that they cost around 15$ each, and I need two plus the wire to use them in parallel. That's +32$ just for one pack of batteries.
I'm from Spain, and here it's not easy to find "rare" batteries. Can't find Route 246, mush less those Eagle Racing you use.
LiPo batteries cost 3$ and the car runs with just one, because they are 2S. I know they are 7.4v, that's why I use a UBEC to get that voltage down to 5v that is close to the 4.8v of the AAA batteries. Maybe I'm wrong thinking that a UBEC can do the job I need, that's supply the motor with enough "juice" to run. This is what I need to know.
Now that I say this, I'm noticing that AAA batteries when charged have around 1.4v-1.5v. Does the ASF electronics have any kind of low voltage protection?
I don't want to sound ungrateful for your answer "targetingxmod" (I thank you for your time). Excuse me for my word if that's the case. English is not my native language.
I'm just tired of only "playing" with Kyosho solutions, they are overpriced. This is a project. I like to tinker. I race with my Atomic AMZ, and soon with my BZ, as soon as it arrives. Xmods wasn't my "cup of tea".
Thanks again.
Anyway, that doesn't help me with the question I asked. I knew about LiFe batteries (Route 246), and I also know that they cost around 15$ each, and I need two plus the wire to use them in parallel. That's +32$ just for one pack of batteries.
I'm from Spain, and here it's not easy to find "rare" batteries. Can't find Route 246, mush less those Eagle Racing you use.
LiPo batteries cost 3$ and the car runs with just one, because they are 2S. I know they are 7.4v, that's why I use a UBEC to get that voltage down to 5v that is close to the 4.8v of the AAA batteries. Maybe I'm wrong thinking that a UBEC can do the job I need, that's supply the motor with enough "juice" to run. This is what I need to know.
Now that I say this, I'm noticing that AAA batteries when charged have around 1.4v-1.5v. Does the ASF electronics have any kind of low voltage protection?
I don't want to sound ungrateful for your answer "targetingxmod" (I thank you for your time). Excuse me for my word if that's the case. English is not my native language.
I'm just tired of only "playing" with Kyosho solutions, they are overpriced. This is a project. I like to tinker. I race with my Atomic AMZ, and soon with my BZ, as soon as it arrives. Xmods wasn't my "cup of tea".
Thanks again.
#4
I am from Portugal!
Yep, xmods are not cup cup of tea either...with the toy board they have . But once they got the right alloy and a RC board...they rock!
There is no other toy evo grade Rc with those possibility's.
I used to buy a lot of stuff from www.TRP.cc, they deliver the next day into Portugal, and they are from Spain.
Also from www.dcarmen.es , they used to FET my fets on my miniz boards! :P And my first RC charger come from them... a Thunder AC6.
Yes the AMZ had come to conquer... I used to have a brushless 4x4 1/28 all before that AMZ come along...it's called the "Razr"...i selled it a few years ago!
Yep, xmods are not cup cup of tea either...with the toy board they have . But once they got the right alloy and a RC board...they rock!
There is no other toy evo grade Rc with those possibility's.
I used to buy a lot of stuff from www.TRP.cc, they deliver the next day into Portugal, and they are from Spain.
Also from www.dcarmen.es , they used to FET my fets on my miniz boards! :P And my first RC charger come from them... a Thunder AC6.
Yes the AMZ had come to conquer... I used to have a brushless 4x4 1/28 all before that AMZ come along...it's called the "Razr"...i selled it a few years ago!
+ YouTube Video | |
+ YouTube Video | |
Thanks for the answer, targetingxmod. I appreciate the time you used to write all that.
Anyway, that doesn't help me with the question I asked. I knew about LiFe batteries (Route 246), and I also know that they cost around 15$ each, and I need two plus the wire to use them in parallel. That's +32$ just for one pack of batteries.
I'm from Spain, and here it's not easy to find "rare" batteries. Can't find Route 246, mush less those Eagle Racing you use.
LiPo batteries cost 3$ and the car runs with just one, because they are 2S. I know they are 7.4v, that's why I use a UBEC to get that voltage down to 5v that is close to the 4.8v of the AAA batteries. Maybe I'm wrong thinking that a UBEC can do the job I need, that's supply the motor with enough "juice" to run. This is what I need to know.
Now that I say this, I'm noticing that AAA batteries when charged have around 1.4v-1.5v. Does the ASF electronics have any kind of low voltage protection?
I don't want to sound ungrateful for your answer "targetingxmod" (I thank you for your time), it's just that after all that time, you only give me the commercial solution that I already knew of.
I'm tired of only "playing" with Kyosho solutions, they are overpriced. This is a project. If I can get this to work, I can spare myself the pain of checking AAA batteries at my local club to help people to find out why their Mini-Z doesn't go as fast as before, and then match batteries to make packs.
I race with my Atomic AMZ, and soon with my BZ, as soon as it arrives. Xmods wasn't my "cup of tea".
Thanks again.
Anyway, that doesn't help me with the question I asked. I knew about LiFe batteries (Route 246), and I also know that they cost around 15$ each, and I need two plus the wire to use them in parallel. That's +32$ just for one pack of batteries.
I'm from Spain, and here it's not easy to find "rare" batteries. Can't find Route 246, mush less those Eagle Racing you use.
LiPo batteries cost 3$ and the car runs with just one, because they are 2S. I know they are 7.4v, that's why I use a UBEC to get that voltage down to 5v that is close to the 4.8v of the AAA batteries. Maybe I'm wrong thinking that a UBEC can do the job I need, that's supply the motor with enough "juice" to run. This is what I need to know.
Now that I say this, I'm noticing that AAA batteries when charged have around 1.4v-1.5v. Does the ASF electronics have any kind of low voltage protection?
I don't want to sound ungrateful for your answer "targetingxmod" (I thank you for your time), it's just that after all that time, you only give me the commercial solution that I already knew of.
I'm tired of only "playing" with Kyosho solutions, they are overpriced. This is a project. If I can get this to work, I can spare myself the pain of checking AAA batteries at my local club to help people to find out why their Mini-Z doesn't go as fast as before, and then match batteries to make packs.
I race with my Atomic AMZ, and soon with my BZ, as soon as it arrives. Xmods wasn't my "cup of tea".
Thanks again.
Last edited by targetingxmod; 07-02-2016 at 02:15 PM.
#5
Tech Rookie
Tenavolts 1.5 on amazon should work
#6
Tech Rookie
Is it a brushless
#7
Tech Rookie
Everything gets a lil hotter but it lasts forever and has more power
#8
Tech Addict
Thanks for the answer, targetingxmod. I appreciate the time you used to write all that. That's a nice "bunch" you have.
Anyway, that doesn't help me with the question I asked. I knew about LiFe batteries (Route 246), and I also know that they cost around 15$ each, and I need two plus the wire to use them in parallel. That's +32$ just for one pack of batteries.
I'm from Spain, and here it's not easy to find "rare" batteries. Can't find Route 246, mush less those Eagle Racing you use.
LiPo batteries cost 3$ and the car runs with just one, because they are 2S. I know they are 7.4v, that's why I use a UBEC to get that voltage down to 5v that is close to the 4.8v of the AAA batteries. Maybe I'm wrong thinking that a UBEC can do the job I need, that's supply the motor with enough "juice" to run. This is what I need to know.
Now that I say this, I'm noticing that AAA batteries when charged have around 1.4v-1.5v. Does the ASF electronics have any kind of low voltage protection?
I don't want to sound ungrateful for your answer "targetingxmod" (I thank you for your time). Excuse me for my word if that's the case. English is not my native language.
I'm just tired of only "playing" with Kyosho solutions, they are overpriced. This is a project. I like to tinker. I race with my Atomic AMZ, and soon with my BZ, as soon as it arrives. Xmods wasn't my "cup of tea".
Thanks again.
Anyway, that doesn't help me with the question I asked. I knew about LiFe batteries (Route 246), and I also know that they cost around 15$ each, and I need two plus the wire to use them in parallel. That's +32$ just for one pack of batteries.
I'm from Spain, and here it's not easy to find "rare" batteries. Can't find Route 246, mush less those Eagle Racing you use.
LiPo batteries cost 3$ and the car runs with just one, because they are 2S. I know they are 7.4v, that's why I use a UBEC to get that voltage down to 5v that is close to the 4.8v of the AAA batteries. Maybe I'm wrong thinking that a UBEC can do the job I need, that's supply the motor with enough "juice" to run. This is what I need to know.
Now that I say this, I'm noticing that AAA batteries when charged have around 1.4v-1.5v. Does the ASF electronics have any kind of low voltage protection?
I don't want to sound ungrateful for your answer "targetingxmod" (I thank you for your time). Excuse me for my word if that's the case. English is not my native language.
I'm just tired of only "playing" with Kyosho solutions, they are overpriced. This is a project. I like to tinker. I race with my Atomic AMZ, and soon with my BZ, as soon as it arrives. Xmods wasn't my "cup of tea".
Thanks again.
You can try finding some aaa sized LIFE cell using two cells at a time. and fill the empty two with dummy cells.