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Old 07-29-2014, 06:59 AM
  #766  
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Originally Posted by synic
I'm willing to do this, but what is the best way to go about doing it? Should I remove the entire back end? (Never needed to do this before so it's new to me.)
It's pretty simple really. The exploded views on losi's site can help as well.

Step 1: Remove the gear cover (6 screws total, 4 on top, 2 on the bottom. Note the threads on what goes where!)
Step 2: Remove the 4 screws on the bottom at the rear of the chassis. These are all the same size and are longer than the ones you removed from the top.
Step 3: Lift and slide out the whole rear assembly, the center diff will come with it (and the ds will fall out).
Step 4: Adjust slipper
Step 5: Reverse steps 3-1 and you are done.

This is one of the easier cars to work on, just take your time and be careful of what screws go where (coarse vs fine threads. Remember that the fine threads go into metal and you will be fine). Look at it like this, even if you completely disassemble it, it will all go back together.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:21 AM
  #767  
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Originally Posted by eg6motion
Been doing RC for nearly 20 years, I think that's longer than most. Long enough to watch many people make unnessesary adjustments for the sake of adjusting. Shimming should be done to compensate for poor tolerances only. Even then, its better to replace the housings instead. Shimming has its place, but the mini 8T does NOT need it out of the box. Its likely to cause more harm than good as a tight mesh is far worse than a slight amount of play.
Worked in the hobby store while going to college and met guys like you all the time with all the '20+ years' behind them and lost count of the many times they were wrong and were learning something for the first time from me
And according even to you a slight amount of play is what is good...
After I shimmed the diffs to take up 0.03" of side to side play in the diff case, I NOW have a slight amount of play which is different than the excessive play it had before shimming...
I do however agree about shimming too tight and should never be the case on such small gears... but the diff housing argument...
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:00 AM
  #768  
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer
Worked in the hobby store while going to college and met guys like you all the time with all the '20+ years' behind them and lost count of the many times they were wrong and were learning something for the first time from me
And according even to you a slight amount of play is what is good...
After I shimmed the diffs to take up 0.03" of side to side play in the diff case, I NOW have a slight amount of play which is different than the excessive play it had before shimming...
I do however agree about shimming too tight and should never be the case on such small gears... but the diff housing argument...
My point was shimming shouldn't be done unless necessary.
I also worked in 3 Hobbyshops and received similar questions that people post online.
If someone is interested in the M8T and asks about any known issues or upgrades, shimming isn't something I'd recommend. There's documented instances of people having trouble, but it's a very small group. If it is due to poor tolerances, then shimming is a good choice. If the tolerances are good from the factory, as they are on mine, you will have told someone to shim something that would then cause binding and create wear. It's the same reason I don't recommend other fine-tuning adjustments for a new vehicle, or a new person to the hobby. It's like telling someone to sand the pistons on a new vehicle out of the box. It may need it, it may not... but it's a more advanced method of tuning an RC vehicle that requires a bit more understanding of the hobby, and the vehicle being worked on. If the diffs are destroyed out of the box, I would contact Horizon as it is a warranty issue. For those that have been around awhile, it's wise not to trust an RTR, but certainly not something I would consider as "good" advise to tell novice hobbyists to do out of the box. It also turns people off a product to indicate that it requires such work, when chances are it won't need it.

Last edited by eg6motion; 07-29-2014 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:21 AM
  #769  
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Originally Posted by mkiiina
It's pretty simple really. The exploded views on losi's site can help as well.

Step 1: Remove the gear cover (6 screws total, 4 on top, 2 on the bottom. Note the threads on what goes where!)
Step 2: Remove the 4 screws on the bottom at the rear of the chassis. These are all the same size and are longer than the ones you removed from the top.
Step 3: Lift and slide out the whole rear assembly, the center diff will come with it (and the ds will fall out).
Step 4: Adjust slipper
Step 5: Reverse steps 3-1 and you are done.

This is one of the easier cars to work on, just take your time and be careful of what screws go where (coarse vs fine threads. Remember that the fine threads go into metal and you will be fine). Look at it like this, even if you completely disassemble it, it will all go back together.
shoo, sounds like the long way, all i did was take off the the top deck, and the stone guard, pop off the ball ends for the suspension linkages, remove the 6 screws the keep the diff together and lift the whole ring gear/slipper/spur gear assembly out...screw off the ring gear, take off the shaft end and use the wheel spanner and spanner that was supplied with the truck and adjust the gear...it easily slips back into place...(remember to lube) and seal it back up...but his way is better more thorough......im lazy lol
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:24 AM
  #770  
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I guess we will have to agree to disagree...
I will always air on the side of telling a customer of all the 'known' issues with an RC vehicle and all its 'potential' problems.
I never once had a customer mad at me for that type of customer service... and always had 1st timers appreciating all the 'necessary' info instead of keeping it from them.
But I did see other employees have mad customers for not NOT telling them which makes the employee seem like they don't know about their products.
Which is why you probably worked in 3 different hobby shops
Anyways I already wasted too much time today on this
Good Luck!
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:02 AM
  #771  
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3 Hobby shops? Please tell me the names of these shops.

Originally Posted by eg6motion
My point was shimming shouldn't be done unless necessary.
I also worked in 3 Hobbyshops and received similar questions that people post online.
If someone is interested in the M8T and asks about any known issues or upgrades, shimming isn't something I'd recommend. There's documented instances of people having trouble, but it's a very small group. If it is due to poor tolerances, then shimming is a good choice. If the tolerances are good from the factory, as they are on mine, you will have told someone to shim something that would then cause binding and create wear. It's the same reason I don't recommend other fine-tuning adjustments for a new vehicle, or a new person to the hobby. It's like telling someone to sand the pistons on a new vehicle out of the box. It may need it, it may not... but it's a more advanced method of tuning an RC vehicle that requires a bit more understanding of the hobby, and the vehicle being worked on. If the diffs are destroyed out of the box, I would contact Horizon as it is a warranty issue. For those that have been around awhile, it's wise not to trust an RTR, but certainly not something I would consider as "good" advise to tell novice hobbyists to do out of the box. It also turns people off a product to indicate that it requires such work, when chances are it won't need it.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:40 AM
  #772  
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Originally Posted by Reaper1ct
shoo, sounds like the long way, all i did was take off the the top deck, and the stone guard, pop off the ball ends for the suspension linkages, remove the 6 screws the keep the diff together and lift the whole ring gear/slipper/spur gear assembly out...screw off the ring gear, take off the shaft end and use the wheel spanner and spanner that was supplied with the truck and adjust the gear...it easily slips back into place...(remember to lube) and seal it back up...but his way is better more thorough......im lazy lol
The reason I prefer my method is it puts less strain on the ball cups keeping them from becoming loose and rounded through repeated removal. Usually is cleaner as well as you dont have to mess with the grease in the rear diff case so easier clean up after!
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:00 PM
  #773  
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer
I guess we will have to agree to disagree...
I will always air on the side of telling a customer of all the 'known' issues with an RC vehicle and all its 'potential' problems.
I never once had a customer mad at me for that type of customer service... and always had 1st timers appreciating all the 'necessary' info instead of keeping it from them.
But I did see other employees have mad customers for not NOT telling them which makes the employee seem like they don't know about their products.
Which is why you probably worked in 3 different hobby shops
Anyways I already wasted too much time today on this
Good Luck!
You are right, you win the internet as you are a special snowflake.

I worked at one, helped a startup then later came back to the first and helped run their sanctioned races. Aside from that, I never said I didn't inform people... but I certainly didn't immediately tell them they need shims for a vehicle as it would imply defect, and if it did, I would warn against purchasing a vehicle that needed a 3rd party solution out of the box. But that was ages ago, and now I watch the armchair experts sell novice people on items they don't need on internet forums. Silly you for purchasing a defective vehicle and not getting warranty support.

Last edited by eg6motion; 07-29-2014 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:34 PM
  #774  
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Can we dispense with the internet e-pen contest? I went through 2 diffs before shimming my front diff tighter than normal and it seems like its good to go now, some people dont need to shim their's. I/We get it, YMMV. Let's move on.
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:51 PM
  #775  
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Originally Posted by eg6motion
You are right, you win the internet as you are a special snowflake.

I worked at one, helped a startup then later came back to the first and helped run their sanctioned races. Aside from that, I never said I didn't inform people... but I certainly didn't immediately tell them they need shims for a vehicle as it would imply defect, and if it did, I would warn against purchasing a vehicle that needed a 3rd party solution out of the box. But that was ages ago, and now I watch the armchair experts sell novice people on items they don't need on internet forums. Silly you for purchasing a defective vehicle and not getting warranty support.
I give you credit for changing your post from what you originally wrote...
Snowflake isn't as bad
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Old 07-29-2014, 02:45 PM
  #776  
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starting to think i can never win with this truck.....finally got the gears i was waiting for, installed it bashed the hell of the truck....came back in happy and smiling, my friend came over to show me his new cars and he wanted to see my m8t and guess what...not steering to the one side....stripped the car down....wheels move freely...thought the saver slipped but felt fine on the servo......plugged the battery in and more steering to one side.......only conclusion......stripped plastic (hopeless) servo gears....gosh i cant remember when last i stripped servo gears....cant believe they still make plastic geared servo's lol...i hope my one i ordered from tower arrives asap...gee PLEASE LOSI SAVE YOURSELF EMBARRASSMENT, MAKE A TLR VERSION FOR SERIOUS RC GUYS.....love the truck hate the parts...ps even the stock motor is good enough with a esc with timing
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Old 07-29-2014, 02:49 PM
  #777  
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Originally Posted by mkiiina
The reason I prefer my method is it puts less strain on the ball cups keeping them from becoming loose and rounded through repeated removal. Usually is cleaner as well as you dont have to mess with the grease in the rear diff case so easier clean up after!
As i said your method is better but im lazy lol

but will give it a go next time
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:30 PM
  #778  
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Originally Posted by Reaper1ct
starting to think i can never win with this truck.....finally got the gears i was waiting for, installed it bashed the hell of the truck....came back in happy and smiling, my friend came over to show me his new cars and he wanted to see my m8t and guess what...not steering to the one side....stripped the car down....wheels move freely...thought the saver slipped but felt fine on the servo......plugged the battery in and more steering to one side.......only conclusion......stripped plastic (hopeless) servo gears....gosh i cant remember when last i stripped servo gears....cant believe they still make plastic geared servo's lol...i hope my one i ordered from tower arrives asap...gee PLEASE LOSI SAVE YOURSELF EMBARRASSMENT, MAKE A TLR VERSION FOR SERIOUS RC GUYS.....love the truck hate the parts...ps even the stock motor is good enough with a esc with timing
The bad part about a TLR edition would be the price. IMHO its already a pretty pricy option compared to some of the other choices out there.

It's funny you had an issue with the servo as I have a brand new 5245 waiting to go in when the stocker bites the dust! Just hasn't died yet!
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:35 PM
  #779  
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funny thing is it was like that when i started up again...didnt have a issue before...
the nice thing about a tlr version is that it would be a roller and it would have some actual research and development so that once you buy you wont need to spend extra on improvement also you can buy the right servo/ esc/ motor combo and be pretty happy with that....IMHO it would have less complaints and just be better.
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Old 07-29-2014, 05:04 PM
  #780  
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Originally Posted by eg6motion
I'm also running velcro, but simply used the stock battery hold-downs as clamps like my DBXL brushless. Velcro is the way to go. Tighter hold and more adjustable. I can run 2 2s packs with velcro, for 4400mah total. Runtime ftw.
Will you post a pic of this setup please? Thanks!
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