Redlinez

iTrader: (1)

I put a Hobbywing motor and esc in my sons Megatech (same truck). You can get it and a 2.4g radio setup from Hobbyparts for about $50. We used the 5200kv/18a combo I believe. We haven't run any of our trucks in months, but I believe it really needs a lipo to realize the potential of that motor.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

I found this on another site:
Hasn't been updated since 2009 though
I- WHEELS
1- rc18t wheels, -rc18mt stock wheels /tires (rims may slightly contact c-hub screws. ae# 21065 x 2)
2- Mini-t rear wheels
3- 18t 12mm hex adapters


II- AXLES
1- 18t will work, but they are a little shorter in the threads
2- 18t wheel pins will work, but they are slightly shorter than stock.

III- DIFFERENTIALS
1- 18t ball diff will drop in bearings and outdrive sleeves will be reused (will be required for other mods)
2- 18t ball dif rebuild kit. Megetech does not offer a rebuild kit for their diff, however the 18t rebuild kit fits perfectly.
3- 18t diff input (pinion) gear fits the PP shaft exactly
4- diff shims: inner 8mm, outer 10mm (ae part #21141)
5- hot racing steel diffs for rc18t are a direct drop in
6- to use mip diffs for rc18t you may need to shave some material from diff case.

IV- HUBS, CARRIERS, ARMS
1- 18t hubs and carriers will work, they use the same bearings and mount in the same manner. the hinge pin diameter is slightly larger so you will need 18t hinge pins to complete this mod.
a- 18t hubs also are 1mm closer to the differential outdrive so you will need 18t dogbones
2- 18t arms. will work, with stock PP pins at the chassis, but the hub hinge pins are larger in diameter and will have to upgraded to 18t hinge pins

Use of the stock camber and tie links is possible with 18t hubs, but not recomended (gives a lot of camber front and rear)

V- SUSPENTION
1- Mini-t springs fit
2- 18t shocks and springs
3- 18t threaded shocks
4- 18t steel and titanium turnbuckle sets
5- 18t ball studs needed if using 18t alloy hubs

VI-EXTRAS
1- Vendetta Bumpers
2- integy bumper, little cutting required, optional drilling
3- 18t bodies
4- 2mm shafted motors, stock esc rated at 80amp for dual motor setup
5-bearing sizes: 9 - 8 x 12 x 3.5mm, 6 - 4 x 8 x 3mm
6-Rpm bumper for rc18t (The rpm bumper will replace the stock front toe in plate and three holes will have to be drilled on the underside of the diff case to mount the bumper.Pics shown at end of post)


VII-Drivetrain
1-18t spur gears will work but you will have to use a 18t center shaft to as the 18t spur uses a hex drive and the propulse uses a pin drive.
2- 18t pinion gears will work with stock propulse spur gears
3- 18T Dogbones, too short with pp hubs, ok with 18t hubs.
4- MIP CVD's work in conjunction with 18t hubs.
A- 18t dogbone and cvd drive pins are longer than the slots available in the PP dif outdrives. the PP outdrives will have to be slotted like ( ) or the pin ends will have to be shortened. the pins work fine with the 18t diffs.
5-exotek slipper clutch & spur (requires enlarging of spur gear housing to accomodate larger 57t slipper gear)

servos:
hs-56hb (requires use of supplied hitec servo mounts and hitec servo saver ae # 21049)
hs-65mg (requires light filing of stock servo mount and hitec servo saver ae # 21049)
HXT-900(available at hobbycity, stock saver and mount works, new mounting holes have to be drilled 5mm back from stock holes)
TP MG90 Metal Gear sub micro servo (available here http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...h14g-TP/Detail, requires lightly filing the servo mount and drilling (and countersinking) two new holes approx. 1/8" back from the original holes, stock servo saver fits with a little elbow grease and a M2.5x9 screw for the rc18t is required to bolt it on)

Batteries:
rhino 1750mAh 7.4v 20c 2s (tight fit before trimming chassis chamfers. 88x16x34mm)
rhino 1750mAh 11.1v 20c 3s (break out the dremel! 85x30x25mm)
zippy flightmax 2200mAh 11.1v 20c 3s (*WARNING* VERY tight fit! requires shifting of cells to accomodate CF driveshaft. 100x34x27mm ) *not recommended due to potential risk of cell damage. use at your own risk!*

Brushless:
castle creations cm20xx (aka mamba. requires slight filing of motor mount)
losi xcelorin 26mm (requires trimming of lower chassis to accomodate longer motor can. May require slight filing of motor mount)

Links to mods:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8741115 (mamba brushless installation)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8656609 (Drift tires mod)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8503576 (Hs65 servo installation)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8602488 (Hot racing steel diffs installation)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8599535 (Rhino Lipo)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8884809 (Motor cooling fan installation)

rpm 18t wide front bumper mod
The rpm bumper will replace the stock front toe in plate and three holes will have to be drilled on the underside of the diff case to mount the bumper.Pics shown at end of post:


Enjoy and anybody else that has anything to add and has pics to prove that it works may post. and i will edit this post with the new information. if anybody has questions feel free to post them and i/other members will/should be glad to help you.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

I just got one of these that was fixin to go out in the trash. Hooked up a Spektrum receiver and it works!
The supplied 1400mah ni-cd sucks though. Bad! Maybe 2min of run time!
Need a lipo! Also brushless would be nice, wondering if this would fit?
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/castle-...059-10/p245795

It's a fun lil buggy!
But, when I get on the throttle it wants to steer left!
Anybody else have thisproblem?
May just need a glitch buster?