CCH1978

iTrader: (27)

Hi guys, I need a little help deciding on getting a RC18t2 or changing my rc18r into a buggy, I had one back in the day and I only use it for speed runs or should I say bashing, my major concern is will the belt hold up to 3 cells and will the wheelie bar from the first version fit?

Thanks for any suggestions in advance

Driver86

iTrader: (1)

I don't like belts, myself. That's why I got a used 18t over the new 18t/b2

CCH1978

iTrader: (27)

Thanks man, thats what I was thinking...any more suggestions?

Mousesi2k

I was in the market for a 2nd RC18 and was on the fence on weather to get the og shaft drive or the new belt drive.

Now both have there pros and cons but from what i've read up on the new belt drivin models, there seems to be alot "negativity" about them right now.(Belt tensioners, rubbing, snapping belts etc etc.) Also, I already own an RC18R and know all of its little problems. So i went with the og shaft drive and bought an RC18B from Ampdraw for like $145 NIB.

some87

iTrader: (16)

i have the new b2 and i like it but like the others said there are the pros and cons. from what i have read the belt is very stiff when you first buy the car but after you break it in they have been saying it feels fine. some even say its better then the old ones too. the one thing i hated about the old car is that the spur came out through the bottom of the chassis and the servo saver too but thats an easy fix if you can get your hands on one of the new servo savers. give it some time and i bet ae will fix all the little problems with the new car very soon.

mcdragon2

iTrader: (9)

what makes you think ae will fix the new car the never fixed the old car

CCH1978

iTrader: (27)

I just picked up the rc18t2, wish me luck guys...more advice is welcomed!!!

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

sweet......did you get the rtr?
if so there are a few things you can do right off tofree up the drive train.
roll the buggy on the ground in a straight line..........Is it free or does it stop real quick??? If its free your good to go...if it seems stiff you have to loosen things up.....First loosen the top plate screws and check . Next remove the tensioner(remove steering rack to do this) then check....it should be free
if it still isnt you have to go deeper and remove diffs and slipper. Then check how they were built. It sounds like a lot of work but it is easy.....

Ernalycious

iTrader: (10)

Anybody got any pics of the T2 besides the pics from AE website.?

some87

iTrader: (16)

only problem with the old car is the servo saver from what i have seen but thats an easy fix with a different brand one. on the new car all they would have to do is maybe add one more tooth to the belt and it would be good but i want to see somebody else make a stronger belt like xray since all there 1/10 cars are belt driven.

some87

iTrader: (16)

there are a few under the rc18t2/b2 thread from thomas p. on page 18 there are a few and page 23 has 1 good one. http://www.rctech.net/forum/micro-mi...rc18b2-t2.html

CCH1978

iTrader: (27)

I got the kit berm, I will assemble it on the weekend of the 4th once I get of of work for a few days, I've been following the thread, thanks for the advice!

CCH1978

iTrader: (27)

Does anyone know if this wheelie bar fits?

http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...cat_name=RC18B

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

It is not going to be a direct fit. You most likely will have to drill holes in the chassis. I would also use some shoe goo to keep it in place.

CCH1978

iTrader: (27)

If anyone is interested I have a brand new one with a brand new AE servo, I have changed my mind on this build... the seal has beeen broken and I looked at the manual...pm me if interested