I questioned you about my problems on another Vendetta thread that you were also posting on and you didn't respond there. But I just PMed them to you.
You're a new member with only a few posts and you're only posting on this thread to try to start trouble. Real nice!
Socko is often busy with testing new toys for us.
If you ever have any questions or problems with any Duratrax Mini (that Noff or Socko do not immediately respond to), feel free to shoot me a PM or email.
I am not a DTX employee, nor am I a strictly DTX guy as far as rides, but I am almost as well versed as any with the Vendetta and would be happy to help out anyone with any queries.
Looking at the manual, it appears the improved cvds and outdrives should fit my ST?? I'd rather have the plastic CVDs hoping I can mod them like my 'Detta buggy to use 3mm studs for the wheels.....
Got any test vids yet Socko....as in your own?
I was also about to pick up a few of the Mini Hardcase lipos and wondered if you had any impressions about em.
Nope, no videos, sorry. I'm lucky to get all the testing I have scheduled for any given day finished. Video would be tough to add in.
I didn't have any of the hardcase packs available when I was testing so I can't give you any feedback. I'm sure they run as well as the soft sided stuff does. At least they will fit the new chassis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper
I questioned you about my problems on another Vendetta thread that you were also posting on and you didn't respond there. But I just PMed them to you.
Looking at them now. Give me a little time to get back to you.
You're a new member with only a few posts and you're only posting on this thread to try to start trouble. Real nice!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselpower
Socko is often busy with testing new toys for us.
If you ever have any questions or problems with any Duratrax Mini (that Noff or Socko do not immediately respond to), feel free to shoot me a PM or email.
I am not a DTX employee, nor am I a strictly DTX guy as far as rides, but I am almost as well versed as any with the Vendetta and would be happy to help out anyone with any queries.
The Vendetta line is not my only responsibility here too. I do all the DTX vehicles so I'm usually swamped. I try to check here every day but that doesn't always happen. Diesel is very knowledgeable as well so he can answer if I'm too busy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duster_360
Looking at the manual, it appears the improved cvds and outdrives should fit my ST?? I'd rather have the plastic CVDs hoping I can mod them like my 'Detta buggy to use 3mm studs for the wheels.....
The outdrives will go right in. The cvds are for the buggy suspension. We don't have the longer driveshafts for the ST suspension yet. I'll get with Noff about updating the ST shafts also.
Socko
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I'm using the cvd's with the studs, they have a slight shoulder where the x'sectional area changes which is where the break.
I want to be able to use 3mm wheel studs like the orig plastic cvds allow since they have enough meat in this area to still have some left after enlarging for 3mm wheel studs. These do a way better job of holding the wheels. I prefer using wheel nuts.
The mod was detailed on 1/18th.com, I'm sure you remember.
I'm using the cvd's with the studs, they have a slight shoulder where the x'sectional area changes which is where the break.
I want to be able to use 3mm wheel studs like the orig plastic cvds allow since they have enough meat in this area to still have some left after enlarging for 3mm wheel studs. These do a way better job of holding the wheels. I prefer using wheel nuts.
The mod was detailed on 1/18th.com, I'm sure you remember.
I sure do. Just curious as to what type of setup you're running that has you busting studs and screws on your axles?
I want to be able to use 3mm wheel studs like the orig plastic cvds allow since they have enough meat in this area to still have some left after enlarging for 3mm wheel studs. These do a way better job of holding the wheels. I prefer using wheel nuts.
The "problem" is the soft steel.
The other option instead of trying to use oversized bolts is just do the modification using "tougher/heavier grade" 2.6mm screws, and save all the tap-&-die problems.
I can't post URL links, or I'd show you the towerhobbies.com links for what you'd need.
Brushless setup using a heli motor called CoolRed, 3500kv version with a Flightpower 3S lipo with an orig Mamba 25. I run pretty much same setup in my buggy where the stock CVDs with the 3mm wheel studs do fine, haven't had any probs with them breaking - had to CA the pins but thats been the only prob. I run HPI mini-star wheels and what I can find that fits rubber wise. If I hit the crack inbetween these concrete street panels wrong at speed, there goes a wheel.
You may be onto something if there's a grade 9 type replacement for the screws, I've been using the ones that come with the cvds. These are the cvds that use the studs so you can use nuts, not the ones that use a machine screw similar to stock.
I think hexcrews has 3mm AP screws in pretty much any size as well.
Cool Red.....wow. I remember when I first came across that motor. I almost shrieked when I saw the price tag compared to anything else that was available for my Mini Quake. Great motor though, love the 2.3mm shaft.
You'd be surprised, I had been buying plane stuff from hobbylobby and got a spec offer from them that included the CoolReds - I bought 4 for $100 shipped and I have yet to wear out or trash one of them. Been one of my better rc purchases.
FYI - all the problems with metal gear diffs blowing up and being non-adjustable, at least in part, is the reason someone invented the ball diff. Proper maintenance is what racing, and RC, is all about - if you want to keep your stuff running. Maybe an RC-shopping cart is more your speed.
FYI - all the problems with metal gear diffs blowing up and being non-adjustable, at least in part, is the reason someone invented the ball diff. Proper maintenance is what racing, and RC, is all about - if you want to keep your stuff running. Maybe an RC-shopping cart is more your speed.
Gear diff's are tunable and i believe more efficient and as an added bonus need less maintenance. With a ball diff there is comprimise between slip and how much friction you want in the actual action of the diff.
Some people use there ball diffs as a slipper clutch. If i want a slipper clutch i will get one made but i want my diffs to act as diffs and not do two jobs at once.
It's a shame you don't know about the benefits of gear diffs they are superior in my opinion.
Looks like you still have a little to learn about the dynamics of a drive train.
Check out the 1/10 off road buggys. Now the R&D have finally got there act together the geared diffs are starting to be used again to great affect.
Yes RC is all about proper maintenance but if i am givin the option to have something that has less maintenance and is more effective i will take it. If you want to keep striiping your truck down when there are potentially better ways of doing things then you are a fool.
Proper maintenance is what racing, and RC, is all about - if you want to keep your stuff running. 
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