sorry i am a newbie on this forum and a newbie to off road 1/18th scale. I do alot of electronic repair on various appliances and so forth. I used to own an xmods did alot of my own work on it. I'm not fully newbie but def. not a pro.
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RC 18T (my Iraqi insanity setup) (waiting for the SC18)
Brushless 8900kv, 1800mah and 2200mah Lipo battery 7.4v, exotek slipper 57/13 gearing, iNtegy wide suspension kit, Exotech kuda body, Alum 80mm bumper, Teflon sealed bearings, Alum 5 spoke rims w/street meats, alum shocks, spur and pinion gear cover, metal geared servo, driving lights, paddle and smashers from team losi.
sorry i am a newbie on this forum and a newbie to off road 1/18th scale. I do alot of electronic repair on various appliances and so forth. I used to own an xmods did alot of my own work on it. I'm not fully newbie but def. not a pro.
I was wondering if you could post a pic of your 18t, I was considering getting the wide arm set.
Seems like the 1/16 e-revo brushless would be a nice addition to your collection too, it looks durable enough and just a bit bigger than the 18t.
It soundz durable, but from my experience itz gonna make you real mad... lol
I say that because I put together one almost just like it. I had alluminum everything just like urz, but did not have the widetrack armz. I built mine for speed runz and drag racing. Anyway first test run hit a lil pebble, flipped end over end ( 20 feet on the street) and that was the end of that. All 4 A armz bent, shock towerz broke..... well name it I broke it.. lol.. I do race another 18T on a off road track with a stock chassis, rpm armz and a 6800 and no major problemz. Also bash a mini revo on a 1/8 track and that lil b#stard wont break.. so I guess itz all relative on how ur gonna drive it ..good luck
IMO and based on experience; aluminum is a waste of money. When you add aluminum and then have a wreck the aluminum frequently bends but most often it breaks something else like a bulkhead or chassis. If you use the stock pieces you may break an arm but that is much cheaper than the damage aluminum can cause.
Thats imo to much aluminium. I'm almost back to stock with my RC18. The plastic parts are durable enough even for brushless. My advice for a durable RC18:
- Get the driven products steering drag link, pinion & spurgear cover from thetoyz.com
- hardened steel outdrives from MIP
- Steel swingshaft CVD's
- 3racing threadened dampers
- rpm front bumper
- steel diff and input gear
- 2 sets of shims for diff shimming
- rpm lower arms if you don't trust in the stock ones
- rubber sealed bearings
alloy is not really needed, it adds weight and it's mostly just for bling.
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M18Pro
M18MT
RC18B/R
mini e-revo vxl
Tamiya Fire Dragon ^_^
I have the alum pinion spur gear, I don't have the cover though. the outdrives have the sleeves which i believe should hold up. cvd's come with the wide body. the dampers might be a good idea, I did pick up a front bumper thats 80mm wide, the steel diff and input gear is something for in the future i saw alot of people just shim the diffs, but its in the future. and i have the teflon bearings. I'm not worried about weight, i'm worried about breaking anything cause it takes over 2-3 weeks to ship here in iraq. Alum is going to be better than plastic thats why i'm going that hard core.
and gotta bling a little bit
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RC 18T (my Iraqi insanity setup) (waiting for the SC18)
Brushless 8900kv, 1800mah and 2200mah Lipo battery 7.4v, exotek slipper 57/13 gearing, iNtegy wide suspension kit, Exotech kuda body, Alum 80mm bumper, Teflon sealed bearings, Alum 5 spoke rims w/street meats, alum shocks, spur and pinion gear cover, metal geared servo, driving lights, paddle and smashers from team losi.
Dont waste your money or time with aluminum, unless your trying to impress your friends with something flashy.
The best upgrades for durability was RPM parts. Go to the RPM website and order all of the parts that they offer for the 18t, its not that expensive, and you will be set, the right way, the first time.
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Original RC 10T. Bl eRevo, Tekin RX8.
i own 18r used for few times. 8900kv motor is over kill will have tourque steer problem and chassiss is not that durable. you will also need gear cover for pinion and supur. get sc18 if you can all new chassiss with dual belt drive and sealed trans.
Thats imo to much aluminium. I'm almost back to stock with my RC18. The plastic parts are durable enough even for brushless. My advice for a durable RC18:
- Get the driven products steering drag link, pinion & spurgear cover from thetoyz.com
- hardened steel outdrives from MIP
- Steel swingshaft CVD's
- 3racing threadened dampers
- rpm front bumper
- steel diff and input gear
- 2 sets of shims for diff shimming
- rpm lower arms if you don't trust in the stock ones
- rubber sealed bearings
alloy is not really needed, it adds weight and it's mostly just for bling.
Listen too this guy right here , the only thing I would add too his list is the Lunsford titanium turnbuckle and hinge pin kit .
As stated before the aluminum is only going to add weight and transfer impact energy into weaker parts .
If you really want to have the most durable mini then I would sell the RC18 and get a Mini E REVO VXL , IMO its MUCH tougher outta the box and a lot more fun too drive . I have owned them all and the Mini E REVO is the best by far IMO .
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My collection:
LST2 , Muggy , 8ight Te , REVO 3.3 , B/L E REVO , Ofna CORR Truck , Mini E REVO , B44 , Micro SCT
MIP Differentials and Spur Gear cover: guess thats the next two. The chassis is all alum. infact the only part that will not be is the hubs from what it looks like. I got the 8900kv motor and 30A esc as a kit off ebay got it for fair price there wasn't any other but i might go for a 5400kv if i can find one for the right price. I appreiciate the help and as for weight I'd rather it be heavy and not get wicked air and land in one piece than plastic light and fly to its death upon landing.
yes i like having some flashiness to the truck so that maybe i can get more than just us three in my unit into the swing. I picked the truck up for cheap in box new off ebay so cant fight with that
AND YES I WILL GET THE SC18 WHEN ITS OUT LOOKS TOO BAD ASS TO NOT PICK UP!
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RC 18T (my Iraqi insanity setup) (waiting for the SC18)
Brushless 8900kv, 1800mah and 2200mah Lipo battery 7.4v, exotek slipper 57/13 gearing, iNtegy wide suspension kit, Exotech kuda body, Alum 80mm bumper, Teflon sealed bearings, Alum 5 spoke rims w/street meats, alum shocks, spur and pinion gear cover, metal geared servo, driving lights, paddle and smashers from team losi.
wondering if this RC18T is durable enough
