MRC / ZD Racing 1/16 Scale Vehicles
#31
The build quality is seems great for the price. A more expensive car may be built better, but the cost may not be worth it.
Heard from RC dad tht the 1/8 buggy is pretty good quality, but the factory build is not so great. Said a teardown and rebuild goes a long way. From the pics on the site the 1/8 comes with CNC rear hub carriers and front steering knuckles. Not even many of the higher end kits have those. They are only option parts.
Heard from RC dad tht the 1/8 buggy is pretty good quality, but the factory build is not so great. Said a teardown and rebuild goes a long way. From the pics on the site the 1/8 comes with CNC rear hub carriers and front steering knuckles. Not even many of the higher end kits have those. They are only option parts.
#32
The build actually wasn't too bad from the factory. Nothing felt out of place, etc. No stripped screws or other kind of over tightened parts.
The motor and esc combo has good power, and the lipo included is a good one.
All in all, I think for the money it has a lot of pluses going for it. My main thing to see right now is how the durability of the drivetrain is since it doesn't use a traditional gear/ball diff front and rear with slipper in center.
One thing I can recommend right now though is if you get one and it doesn't come with shims for the motor mount where the screws go through the chassis too the mount, get some. This will give it a better bite to the chassis and keep it from moving on impacts.
The upgraded motor mount in metal alloy isn't too expensive either, I think like $10? that probably would be a worth while upgrade.
I hope to get around someone with a Traxxas 1/16 revo / slash maybe next weekend to try there hexes on the vehicle.
the 1/8 ZD Racing buggy really needs a good teardown and rebuild based on what RC Dad got. I think it has potential, and who knows, if they offer it as a Pro level kit, could be a winner. I know that empireRC has the version with the saddle packs like a Caster Fusion.
The motor and esc combo has good power, and the lipo included is a good one.
All in all, I think for the money it has a lot of pluses going for it. My main thing to see right now is how the durability of the drivetrain is since it doesn't use a traditional gear/ball diff front and rear with slipper in center.
One thing I can recommend right now though is if you get one and it doesn't come with shims for the motor mount where the screws go through the chassis too the mount, get some. This will give it a better bite to the chassis and keep it from moving on impacts.
The upgraded motor mount in metal alloy isn't too expensive either, I think like $10? that probably would be a worth while upgrade.
I hope to get around someone with a Traxxas 1/16 revo / slash maybe next weekend to try there hexes on the vehicle.
the 1/8 ZD Racing buggy really needs a good teardown and rebuild based on what RC Dad got. I think it has potential, and who knows, if they offer it as a Pro level kit, could be a winner. I know that empireRC has the version with the saddle packs like a Caster Fusion.
#33
Thats the good thing about this hobby, options. I think the 1/8 may be a good buggy for my friend. I will keep in contact with RCdad here soon to see how it is holding up.
#34
Just to update, I went ahead and purchased a set of Traxxas 1/16 hexes, and they Fit perfectly. So you can run 12mm hex rims. Keep in mind though, when mounted up, you need a somewhat narrow rim or one with an offset up front.
I had a spare set of VTA rims and tires lying around, and I got the fronts on fine and rears as well. It should work out nicely for some carpet action, could do some sedan rubbers on the vehicle easily.
I had a spare set of VTA rims and tires lying around, and I got the fronts on fine and rears as well. It should work out nicely for some carpet action, could do some sedan rubbers on the vehicle easily.
#35
Sold, I ordered mine this morning. I will let everyone know how it is when it comes in
#36
#38
The parts look good quality, but the build quality from the factory is not so great. RCdad said that you should tear it down and rebuild it.
#39
Yeah, though, in fairness to ZD, any RTR I would rebuild as who knows who put it together.
The 1/16th scale was put together pretty well.
One thing I am going to look into is seeing about some sort of spacer as if you tighten the wheels too much, you bind up the bearings I believe.
The 1/16th scale was put together pretty well.
One thing I am going to look into is seeing about some sort of spacer as if you tighten the wheels too much, you bind up the bearings I believe.
#40
Hey guys, sorry for the long time between updates, there was a mixup on some parts I was supposed to get in so I didn't get to run my race due to that fact. I had broken a steering knuckle where the lower screw goes into the knuckle from below. So that is one part I would probably pickup spares on. Its pretty cheap part though and in-stock at amain.
Now, I was going to run the vehicle without the front tranny setup so I could nurse it around the track, but without all the shafts connected the transmission would just spin.
I am hopeful though that as a future hopup they could offer a ball diff setup front and rear, as I think that would offer a nice tuning option.
I will be getting in the truggy body and posts here soon to try out with the buggy wing. It looks like you can run both as the mounting holes are there.
I also got in some 24mm tires, and they work great, just narrow enough to run over the 12mm hexes.
The next thing I am working on solving is that when using aftermarket wheels in particular, if you tighten the nut down you get some binding up of the wheels. I think with a shim or two in the right area, I can solve this, just need some time to look into it.
Now, I was going to run the vehicle without the front tranny setup so I could nurse it around the track, but without all the shafts connected the transmission would just spin.
I am hopeful though that as a future hopup they could offer a ball diff setup front and rear, as I think that would offer a nice tuning option.
I will be getting in the truggy body and posts here soon to try out with the buggy wing. It looks like you can run both as the mounting holes are there.
I also got in some 24mm tires, and they work great, just narrow enough to run over the 12mm hexes.
The next thing I am working on solving is that when using aftermarket wheels in particular, if you tighten the nut down you get some binding up of the wheels. I think with a shim or two in the right area, I can solve this, just need some time to look into it.
#41
Sounds good.
#42
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
mc4798 here's the link
http://www.modelrec.com/search/produ...w.asp?ID=10155
#44
Well, I finally got to get in some real race track time with the ZD. I did have to do a few changes initially, mainly due to the fact that I had a bad oring in one of the shocks in the rear. unfortunately I didn't have a spare for replacement, so after some playing around with some shocks I had laying around, I was able to mount up a 2 shocks in the rear from an academy GV2 pro Buggy. using the front buggy shocks, I needed to just go with a much bigger piston, remove the thread nut (which can go back) and also a shorter eyelet. The stock ZD springs fit over the shock fine.
Went with a setup of I believe 60W front and 20W rear. stock springs, shocks leaned inwards. I did add some droop via the droop screws but didn't record the setting at the time. Pretty much got the rear arms limited to level and the front just above level.
I used Sorex 32Rs up front, and Sorex 28Rs in the rear. This setup was very easy to drive. I still had a ton of steering, I even let the tires go a heat or two without saucing them and the vehicle improved even more.
On the track I race at the stock motor and pinion combo was a tad slow, but one of the vehicles present driven by a Tekin sponsored driver was using a 6900Kv system in an RC18T, so I don't feel too bad
I think with a hotter motor setup, I could really laydown some comparable lap times.
The stock system however was very smooth on the bottom end. Almost too smooth as it didn't hit hard at all like you would think a brushless setup would.
Had great power with the included RFI lipo pack, and it was comparable to the durtrax 30C pack I purchased as another track I will race at required hardcased lipos.
With some of the future upgrades, I think I can make this vehicle a serious contender.
Went with a setup of I believe 60W front and 20W rear. stock springs, shocks leaned inwards. I did add some droop via the droop screws but didn't record the setting at the time. Pretty much got the rear arms limited to level and the front just above level.
I used Sorex 32Rs up front, and Sorex 28Rs in the rear. This setup was very easy to drive. I still had a ton of steering, I even let the tires go a heat or two without saucing them and the vehicle improved even more.
On the track I race at the stock motor and pinion combo was a tad slow, but one of the vehicles present driven by a Tekin sponsored driver was using a 6900Kv system in an RC18T, so I don't feel too bad
I think with a hotter motor setup, I could really laydown some comparable lap times.
The stock system however was very smooth on the bottom end. Almost too smooth as it didn't hit hard at all like you would think a brushless setup would.
Had great power with the included RFI lipo pack, and it was comparable to the durtrax 30C pack I purchased as another track I will race at required hardcased lipos.
With some of the future upgrades, I think I can make this vehicle a serious contender.
#45
Sounds good