Ive had my RC18T since January and ever since I built it whenever I throttle it it veers to the left really really bad.
All the tires are lined up straight, but it still happens.
Another problem is that its never had good acceleration. I have a Sidewinder on it and Im told it should have enough power to wheelie but it doesnt. Ive tightened the diffs a lot but It still accelerates slow. And it goes faster in reverse than forward.
What can I do to make it not veer to the side when accelerating, and what can I do to make it accelerate faster?
Most inline motor RCs will have a small amount of torquesteer with a more powerful motor. The twisting of the motor tweaks everything under load and it cant help but go left under powerful accelerations. Try going back to the normal diff settings and see if it helps a little. If the torquesteer is really bad then you may have a bad bearing or something binding in the drivetrain. Take the pinion gear off and roll the car around to see whats happening.
Wheelies are not as easy with 4wd cars, if you have a 42 or 54 brushless you will likely not get wheelies. If you have the 68 or 80 system, and good batteries, then you can get wheelies by playing with the suspension to get the weight transfer needed. Just remember that most changes you make to try and get wheelies will likely give you more torquesteer. I would start with reprogramming the radio to the esc if you are faster in reverse.
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
mine goes accelarates right REALLY bad new bearings tires and diffs are at factory setting what can do its fine out side but terable on carpet
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jammin x1 with ofna .26 and dx3s
custom built like nothin u can buy losi mini late model
rc18t mamba 4000kv bl and spectrum dx3s looks like an mini version of the eight t
ofna lx1 with dx3s and ofna .26 and jr servos
l4 oval car roller with LOTS of hop ups mini lst with mamba 8000kv and 4 cell lipo
Most inline motor RCs will have a small amount of torquesteer with a more powerful motor. The twisting of the motor tweaks everything under load and it cant help but go left under powerful accelerations. Try going back to the normal diff settings and see if it helps a little. If the torquesteer is really bad then you may have a bad bearing or something binding in the drivetrain. Take the pinion gear off and roll the car around to see whats happening.
Wheelies are not as easy with 4wd cars, if you have a 42 or 54 brushless you will likely not get wheelies. If you have the 68 or 80 system, and good batteries, then you can get wheelies by playing with the suspension to get the weight transfer needed. Just remember that most changes you make to try and get wheelies will likely give you more torquesteer. I would start with reprogramming the radio to the esc if you are faster in reverse.
Yeah it does it really bad. I guess Ill tear it apart and see what I can find. I dont want wheelies, I just want it to accelerate faster.
Assuming you have the RTR radio, there should be a little switch on the side of the radio for both channels. Flip the throttle channel (channel 2), and that will reverse that channel. Some systems need to do that with certian electronics. This will fix the problem of going faster in reverse than in forward. After you do this, you will need to re-program the radio to the ESC, then you should be good in that respect
If the motor spins backwards after you do this, just switch any 2 of the motor wires, and it will run in the correct direction
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
Overtighten the rear diff and soften up the rear end a bit for wheelies
If you just want better acceleration, run the front diff a little tighter than the rear and stiffen up the rear just a little bit so that the front won't want to lift as much on-power.
If the front end lifts even just a little bit, it could cause the torque-steer to be more noticeable since there will be less weight on the front tires, which equates to less resistive force to the twisting motion of the drivetrain.
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Novak Electronics - Team BlackOps - Team XRAY- Jaco Racing
That's weird,i has a 18t with a 6800 mamba and a 2s lipo and it always tracked straight under full throttle acceleration and had way more than enough acceleration form dead stop to top end but it did have the dp steering drag link.Hope you solve your issues.Check for binding in the front end and check for any damage to the holes in the front bumper and front of the chassis where the front suspension pins slide into they may have opened up a bit from hard bashing and have slop in them.
Assuming you have the RTR radio, there should be a little switch on the side of the radio for both channels. Flip the throttle channel (channel 2), and that will reverse that channel. Some systems need to do that with certian electronics. This will fix the problem of going faster in reverse than in forward. After you do this, you will need to re-program the radio to the ESC, then you should be good in that respect
If the motor spins backwards after you do this, just switch any 2 of the motor wires, and it will run in the correct direction
I switched the throttle on the transmitter and same thing.
So then I go to re-program it, but now the controls are reversed to I have to re-program it using the reverse controls.
If I do that do you think my problem will be fixed?
What the heck. I payed more than $450 for this thing and it doesnt even work properly no matter what I try.
So I had it set where would accelerate faster in reverse.
Then I switched the throttle on the transmitter, and same thing.
So then I reprogram it in with reverse controls and nothing changes.
And then finally I switch 2 motor wires and it still does nothing.
I know this is simple but may have been overlooked but if you are using the stock radio check to see if your throttle endpoint knobs "THE TWO UPPER DIALS ON THE LEFT OF THE TRANSMITTER" are turned up all the way.one is for acceleration and top speed and the other is for how much brake and reveres power you want.
Thats all I had was problems w/ my rc18t. Mostly diff issues w/brushless systems. Once I went to my Xray M18t Pro and my losi late model, never had diff issues again. I hope you get everything worked out but rc18t's are know for small but big issues...
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Fabtech Brushless Slash w/Mamba Sidewinder-5700
RCT3 Hopped Up w/Mamba Sidewinder-5700
Losi 1/18 Slider w/Mamba 25-6800, Losi Mini Late Model w/Hacker Brushless
XRAY M18T Pro w/Tekin Mini Rage-6800, E-Flite MCX Heli
Fast Kyosho Mini Z mm-02 w/Orion 1100mah batts