so tryin to figure out if I should plug 1 of the holes in my pistons... i cant stand how bouncy the car is.. i have tried diff oil weights, diff springs, still with no really good results. i think im going to go ahead and try it..
Thomas p- is plugging one of those holes the reason your shock bottoms wont stay on? Were you able to fix this problem with your rebuild kit or do they still come off?
The reason why your shock bottoms are coming off is because your filling it up to much and or your using diff oil which is very thick and the pressure is forcing them off. By filling one hole you can run thinner shock oil.
Yes they come off, no i havnt tried new bottom-caps yet.
Yes thatīs tru i can run thinner oil with one hole but i need more pack, more absorbing, and erlier with 150w it was "almost ok" but with short pushrods it was still springy. I have moved down from 150 to 70w rear single hole. thats thinner oil less weight in oil and i am back to zero. like the car is now it is good. I think i have found a minus on the car, and it is the botttom of the shocks...they cant handle the pressure, i really hope new one will solve my problem.
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Filled one hole in all the pistons, running 50wt front and 60 rear.. feels like butter from home testing.. will know more after my track run this afternoon..
i plan on getting one within the next couple weeks. Has anyone tried filling all the wholes and drilling new smaller ones? that would provide you with more pack and still getting better dampning rather than having to go up so high in the oil weight.
Except for straight speed runs why do I hear talk of 4s? It's plenty fast on a 20c 2s.
it is plenty fast sure, but i have multiple 2s and a series connector so why not?
its not all the time. i run 2s single, parallel, 3s single, parallel. and on occasion 4s.
my question was can i do it on the sidewinder, not should i do it on the sidewinder
Yes they come off, no i havnt tried new bottom-caps yet.
Yes thatīs tru i can run thinner oil with one hole but i need more pack, more absorbing, and erlier with 150w it was "almost ok" but with short pushrods it was still springy. I have moved down from 150 to 70w rear single hole. thats thinner oil less weight in oil and i am back to zero. like the car is now it is good. I think i have found a minus on the car, and it is the botttom of the shocks...they cant handle the pressure, i really hope new one will solve my problem.
have u tried clipping the outer pins on ur tires to help prevent traction rolls
motor review
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5643067/tm.htm
http://www.rctech.net/forum/micro-mini-scales/156814-vendetta-bl-motor-reviews-pros-cons.html
my question was can i do it on the sidewinder, not should i do it on the sidewinder
There is a custom cutoff entry in the castle link to maybe get the LVC set to 12v. I have a Sidewinder and Mamba I can pull up the Link settings to see on the LVC.
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Consistency is Redundancy . Just lots of wheel time.
wont runt it for 3weks then (saturday)
but i need more pack, more absorbing, and erlier with 150w it was "almost ok" but with short pushrods it was still springy. I have moved down from 150 to 70w rear single hole. thats thinner oil 
less weight in oil and i am back to zero. like the car is now it is good. I think i have found a minus on the car, and it is the botttom of the shocks...they cant handle the pressure, i really hope new one will solve my problem.
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