M.Huerta

Hey guys i just joined this forum yesterday. So I used to race 1/10 scale touring cars(jrx-s), but i got kinda bored with the whole racing thing and have been flying planes and helis ever since(3 years ago), then the other day i went to a shop in California and saw an associated RC18B, and i really wanted one of these since before i stopped racing, so i started researching it and am hooked and I am really anxious to get one. The thing that i really wanna know is that i am going to get the factory team kit(i still have a tx), and i wanna throw a mamba 8000kv BL system on there on 2s and sometimes 3s, i just do not know if there are any MANDATORY upgrades that i need to buy to run the BL system without my car destroying itself, i know some people buy the MIP CVD dogbones and the fancy diffs, but is that stuff really needed with the FT kit, also i need to know what gearing to go with for this motor.

Thanks so much
Matt

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

Hey Matt
you need to beef up the drivetrain for the 8000......
MIP CVDs MIP Super diffs diff shim pack to properly set up the diff
You can upgrade to metal gears as well. Personally I use plastic.
For gearing start off w 60/10 and work your way up. (pinions from 10-15t)
for tuning. Keep the motor cool (under 150f) and its all good....

With the buggy you dont have alot of room under the lid so layout your components carefully. Keep a supply of tires....

1320VR4

iTrader: (15)

overall the FTK dog bones are def strong enough to support any brushless setup. You will most likely blow diffs, I found in my garbage rc18 that the stock diffs strip easy with any mod motor. With MIP diffs on an FTK kit, built and shimmed correctly, you should be set for b/l

M.Huerta

also, is the 8000 the fastest? or is there anything better.

thanks guys for your input

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

the bones are strong enough but when you cartwheel a rc18b from highspeed crashing the bones fly out... you may find the bone but the spring and the keeper are rarely found.... bones will also bind under certain situations.. if you want to cheap out just get cvds for the front....

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

Castle Creations has anewer motor a 9500 or something close...
guys were testing them at the mini nats insane speed....

the new motor will be the fastest but you will most likely have to rebuild diffs on a weekly basis.....
speed costs $$$

Dieselpower

iTrader: (25)

Faster isn't always better.

1320VR4

iTrader: (15)

perhaps add stronger tie rods to the list? lol. Given the option of ftk dog bones and cvd's, the cvd's are more than better. Makes a difference in the mini t's too. At least the ftk dog bones wont snap like the minit stock ones do

Lightin'

Not sure the motivation on having the fastest unless it is to increase repair bills, or drag racing and then the rc18 isn't the best choice.

Aceldama

Stop immediately. I've been running the FT 18T for a while now. I've been through a number of stupid setups that involved 9000kv motors and 3s for 'speed runs' and other crap. Most of what I've learned is from trial and error... and lots and lots of reading so listen up.

First of all, the FT 18T doesn't need anything to run a brushless setup. If you shim the diffs properly when you build it, they're the strongest 18th scale diffs you can get in a kit and they will not fail. Just keep them tightened properly and they won't burn up. The dogbones are noisy but they're bombproof. The only upgrade I'd recommend is in the steering department. I've got a Driven Productions drag link that was a huge improvement but I'm sure there are other solutions out there.

Motors and voltages: running 2s or 3s makes a big difference on how you plan your entire system. 9000kv on 2s is already at the upper limit of what any driver or any motor bearings are going to handle, 9000kv on 3s is just an exercise in breaking stuff. It's not actually going to be faster than the same setup on 2s because you won't be able to drive it.

If you're dead set on runnning a 3s setup, then get a low enough KV motor that it makes sense for efficiency and control. I'd shoot for a 4000kv or so motor for running on 3s, but I wouldn't bother. 2s is the best solution for the 18t because it's easier to package, cheaper, and these tiny cars don't need the voltage to get moving like the big ones do.

A safer bet is to aim for 40-50k rpm from the motor. Personally I run a Wraith7k motor on a Hobbywing EZRUN 35 at 7.4v. My ideal gearing is about 17/60 or thereabouts. I've got a number of packs that I use but my favorite has been the Rhino 2s 1750. Excellent packaging, price, and performance. My friends an I own 4 of these between us and have never had a problem with any of them.

The FT 18T is solid as hell, but it's not totally dipshit proof. If you put a stupid 9000kv system @ 3s in it all bets are off. This also goes for running into solid objects... but I will say that I've owned the MLST2, Mini-T, GB01 and 18T FT and the 18T is easily the strongest most capable out of the box by a long, long way.

Some maths:
9000kv @ 11.1v = 99,900 rpm... that's not going to work out well.
9000kv @ 7.4v = 66,000 rpm which is already a lot for motor bearings.
4000kv @ 11.1v = 44,400 rpm. This is a good rpm.

My personal preference:
7000kv range @ 7.4v = around 50k rpm.

Dieselpower

iTrader: (25)

I agree with Ace, but I also agree with Berm......
I too have run bone stock 18Ts and Rs with as high as 6800kv on a 25c lipo and they both held up well....with the exception of lost dogbones and springs. CVDs are not a necessity, but they are nice for this reason.
Diffs, they are good for stock models and will stand up to a BL setup without a problem, but no matter how good the gears are......the balls are going to wear out a heck of a lot faster.

A servo saver upgrade is a definate first must have for any of the RC18 line though....

Aceldama

How did you kill the factory team dogbones with that setup? We beat the piss out of ours and the only wear they have is from being sandblasted by road grit. The stub axles that come on the FT kit are beastly and I haven't been able to bend them unlike the MIP stub axles I had on the MLST2 which would bend if you used strong language near them. I'll admit that the FT bones are squeaky and can be annoying. If they finally go I might replace them with CVDs if only for that reason.

Another key is to keep the diffs decently tightened so they don't overslip. Obviously this becomes harder on high-grip surfaces that it sounds like you're running on.

M.Huerta

ok, i know what you guys are saying, so whick kv mamba would be the best for high speed but still maintaning control for like dirt tracks and messin around, i dont want it to be slow but i want control.

Matt

Aceldama

I've had my 6800 Mamba in the RC18 and while it was good I felt the motor got a bit hot. I feel that the Mamba motors are a bit dinky for the 18T drivetrain.

This seems bigger but I haven't heard any reviews.

The Losi motors are a larger can size.. I'd probably go for either the 6000kv or the 7400kv. Here's the 7400.

M.Huerta

which losi motor would you reccomend for what i posted above(kv wise)