I have finnally went brushless with my xray m18t with a tekin rs esc and hyperion 5000kv motor. I have been having very bad cogging problems with the motor and made my racing ability suffer greatly. So i broke down a bought a new novak three-80 10.5 turn motor and 11 tooth pinions. i installed it and switched the bullets to my standard size bullets and threw it on the track for a test. To my suprise it sort of ran backwards and cutout and ran backwards amd cutout... with only a small amont of foward throttle. I tried switching some wires around and reprograming the esc with fresh endpoints with no luck. I even tried three other batteries and locking out reverse. still no luck.
The Hyperion motor is sensorless, while the RS and Mongoose motors/ESC are sensored. That's why your first setup didn't work.
As for the Goose 380 not working with the RS.....
If you're sure you re-programmed it properly, I'd say you possibly damaged the ESC by running it with the sensorless motor.....but that's just a guess.
RS is Sensored or Sensorless either way. It comes with Hybrid turned on. Only if you have The hotwire modules and load up the recent update can you change its setting to sensorless onlyr or sensored onboard. else it has to be done via hotwire.
Been following that RS Pro for while,... but soo exp...
Just tried the esc with two other motors. A castle 6800kv and a lrp sensored 17.5. Both work fine after reprograming. I tried again with the three-80, no luck...
RS pro would be a big over kill. Also RS is default in dual mode so it doesn't matter if you ran a non sensored motor. Calibrate the ESC it should have come with instructions, if you don't have them there is a manual on their site here's a quick "how to" anyway..
1. Turn on ESC
2. Press and hold Mode button until you hear a series of beeps and all led's flash. then the middle flashes wait until it recognizes neutral again a series of beeps and led's flash.
3.Then pull trigger to full throttle and wait for the beeps
4.then to full brake, wait for the and and beeps
If done right all leds will advance with the throttle until full throttle then they should ALL flash.
If that fails then I would say the ESC is bad send it in for warranty work, Tekin has great customer service so no issues there.
The great thing about the RS is that it has the ability to "check" the sensors for you. Simply turn on the unit, do not apply any throttle input, spin the motor by hand and you will see the last 3 led's cycle on and off "reporting" the sensors to you. If you only see one or two, chances are one is bad.
We will drive the motor sensorless if we see a bad sensor.
The guys are correct that if you're tyring to run the "goose" in sensored only you will need a Hotwire to do so. However in dual mode on the RS we do look at the sensors to start so you should not have any cogging.
Check the sensors using the RS. Make sure your sensor harness is properly seated and that the motor wire connections are tight and secure.
You CANNOT ruin the RS by running it with a sensorless motor.
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Randy Tekin Team Manager
Tekin Setup Page: http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/
I checked all the above suggestions and everything tells me this should work, but the problem still exists...
I tried driving the car without the sensor wire plugged in, and it worked like its suposed to but without the benifits of being sensored.
I even tried it again in my tc (the main car this esc is used in) with a lrp 17.5 motor and it works just like its supposed to. I pushed it backwards, grabbed a bit of throttle and there was no cogging, just foward momentum.
I have the RS installed in my Recoil with a mongoose 380 10.5 and i don't have any of those issues. I'd like to see a photo of your setup mounted in your car.
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