Tekin RS & Novak Three-80 Problem! Please Help!!! - Page 2

Randy_Pike · 03-06-2009, 08:50 AM

If you're getting cogging with the RS and you're certain the sensor harness is correctly plugged in the chacnes of you being overtimed are good.

The micro motors don't need the timing you may have had in your LRP 17.5 setup.

Try going sensored only 0 boost TP 3 as a starting poing.

iPearl · 03-06-2009, 11:06 AM

Hehehe thats hard core ! LOL
I though i was cramped in my M18 with the FX but yours hardcore !!!
Nice,...

Did you fiddle with the Throttle sensitivity yet ?
I am still on Brushed but I had issues with Reciever cutting out on me. I still had Throttle control but no steering at top speed and the reciever would flicker on full punch. You might have some power issues with the receiver, That might causing the Cogging. Since you are stuffing 10th scale item into a 18th scale.

Spektrum SPM1600 and plug it into the Aux Receiver.
http://www.hobbyfever.com/product_in...oducts_id=8687

Or make ur own its a 10v 4700uF Cap.
I made a 16v 4000uF Cap with 4 smaller Caps and a Servo Plug works too.

You might wanna try that if all above suggestions fail it made my car run buttery smooth but then i am on brushed.

MIcro-T Master · 03-23-2009, 04:29 PM

Well, i finnally got the hotwire setup on my pc and lowered the timing from 12 to zero and went from tp 5 to tp3 i also turned the brakes down to 80. The problem has lessened, but still annoyingly persists

I played with the settings for a half an hour or so and still no luck.

Im running version 180 on my rs so im gona try to update that to the most recent tonight.

Ooops, i forgot to add that i reprogramed the esc correctly after each new setup. I also forgot to mention that i did enable sensored only.

Are there any other thing i could try?

What are you guys running settings wise?

Thanks in advanced

,
Kyle

trerc · 03-23-2009, 05:22 PM

I think you have other problems. I run the same setup and have run as much as 80% timing with the Novak 8.5 before I started to notice cogging. I cut this down to 60% and have no problems. I run my TP on linear (3) and my brakes at 100%. This is with the 189 software in dual mode.

I have also ran sensored only mode with as much as 20 degrees of boost tho I found that to be a bit much, I have found 13 degrees of boost to be a better number, all other values are as mentioned above.

I run an 18t, My gearing is 55/16 running 2s lipo running on flat carpet oval. Track has 140ft run line, my times average 3.8-4.1, my motor temps are around 145 degrees.

MIcro-T Master · 03-23-2009, 05:43 PM

Ok, let me get this straight...

Is timing advanced and boost the same thing?
What is "Boost" labled as in hotwire?

Also, how can i get the latest version software?
Thanks,
Kyle

Randy_Pike · 03-24-2009, 09:48 AM

Kyle,

Stay away from TP on a micro motor. That is way to agressive for your setup.

If you're not running 189 software or better you won't see a timing boost bar. That was added with 189 software.

WIth 189 or 194 software your timing bar will change depending on the user selecting sensored only OR dual mode.

In dual mode the timing bar will be labeled as "timing advance" and has a scale from 0 to 100 being a percentage of 30 degrees timing total.

In sensored only mode the timing bar will be labeled as "timing boost" and will scale from 0 to 30 being actual degrees of timing.

For micro, try running in dual mode with timing advance around 50-80 depending on gearing,etc.

IF you're looking to get the new software you must email me a request for it:

Rpike@teamtekin.com

drperry · 03-24-2009, 02:43 PM

If it gives you the problem, even just holding it in your hand...

Try plugging it into one of your 1/10th scale packs, just in case.

MIcro-T Master · 03-26-2009, 09:56 AM

Ok, i got the new 194 form you Randy and adjusted everything as suggested...

I just dont get how or why this isnt working...

I even tried my Reedy 3200mah 2s lipo and no luck...

I transfered my rs back to my t2 007 to go and lay down some practice laps (i readjusted it to my settings for the car) and it works/ed fine...

Any other ideas?

trerc · 03-26-2009, 04:30 PM

Hey Kyle,

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say your motor's suspect. Try the Hyperion motor again with the suggested timing and see if your still having issues, it's obviously not the ESC if it is functioning properly in you other car.

MIcro-T Master · 03-28-2009, 07:37 AM

Well if i tried that motor it wouldnt be a valid test. (it didnt work with my friends mamba micro pro either) But i tried my friends 6800kv mamba motor and it works fine. I talkd to a few guys at the local tack thursday and they all believe the problem is the motor. I'm sending it back to novak today for a replacement to hopefully solve this problem.

go4dkil · 03-29-2009, 10:42 PM

I had a problem with my 10.5 w/mongoose esc. It turned out to be a cold solder joint between the orange motor wire and the motor winding. Only acted up with a heavy load. Maybe this will help.