The absolute best way to equalize your micro cells is to get a Novak Smart tray and then bend the tabs in until you can get them all to make the correct contact with the pack. If it’s the SE version set the cut-off to 1.0 if it's the original version, set the cut-off to .9 as that's as high as it will go. Micro cells do not like to go below .9 per cell, and we've seen the best results using a 1.0v cutoff. Be sure to tray your packs before charging them so that they are at a good baseline to start off the charging process. Take it from someone who has cycled through ALOT off battery cells, follow this advice and you will not be disappointed. I hope this helps you.
Psycho Man
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Team Psycho Cells - Team Exotek - D&K Air Designs
-1. the integy tray will deadshort the cells. as tim said, this is not good. maybe for older cells (1100's etc), but for new stuff, you dont want to do that. it does however, make have a nice plate that easily adapts to the smart tray
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
I've got an older Tekin mini-batt Dr and my only complaint with mine is thats its slow - low discharger rate. Looking at the new one, looks like they've fixed that. I still have a few ib1400 pacs and they like being disch before re-charging. They're not matched pacs, but after coming off tray and then the charger, they look like matched pacs.
-1. the integy tray will deadshort the cells. as tim said, this is not good. maybe for older cells (1100's etc), but for new stuff, you dont want to do that. it does however, make have a nice plate that easily adapts to the smart tray
I have had this thing for years, and use it on all my packs... However, I must admit that i don't race stock very often and usually run LiPo. I also do not put much effort into stock when I do run it. All my nimh packs work ok though.
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****RATFactor Racing Products**** www.ratfactorracing.com****ratfactor@live.com**** www.midwestseries.com
I have had this thing for years, and use it on all my packs... However, I must admit that i don't race stock very often and usually run LiPo. I also do not put much effort into stock when I do run it. All my nimh packs work ok though.
The thing about it is, that with deadshorting you will see an increase in voltage, and lower IR, but the trade off is a lot less runtime. If you tray the pack the right way, not as much peak voltage, but the average voltage is better, because it has more runtime, and holds it through the curve better. In the end, they will perform about the same, but the deadshorted pack will have less runtime. Also, with the integy tray, the pack isnt truly equalized until deadshort. The tekin tray is the same way, its not really equalized until they all get down to the .5 cutoff, which is still not good.
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
The thing about it is, that with deadshorting you will see an increase in voltage, and lower IR, but the trade off is a lot less runtime. If you tray the pack the right way, not as much peak voltage, but the average voltage is better, because it has more runtime, and holds it through the curve better. In the end, they will perform about the same, but the deadshorted pack will have less runtime. Also, with the integy tray, the pack isnt truly equalized until deadshort. The tekin tray is the same way, its not really equalized until they all get down to the .5 cutoff, which is still not good.
Thanks, I'll have to look into doing it the right way for the 1/18 pan class. That's about the only thing I run without LiPo.
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****RATFactor Racing Products**** www.ratfactorracing.com****ratfactor@live.com**** www.midwestseries.com
mini discharge tray???
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