Still a little confused on the whole diff problem with LST's and LST2's. My understanding is the LST2 diffs are considerably stronger and they have addressed the problem. However on some forums people are either confusing the two or the LST2's are still weak and will strip.
Reason I am asking is I am planning on putting a pretty powerful brushless system in mine and would like to know if I am going to be replacing diffs on a weekly basis.
Well sure but I am specifically asking if the LST2 diffs are better. As in the LST people would strip the diffs just about everytime they ran the truck and it was a serious issue for just about anyone.
Basically I need to know if I will be replacing diffs on every battery or not. I am planning on running a 7000kv to 8000kv motor with a 3s lipo.
Well sure but I am specifically asking if the LST2 diffs are better. As in the LST people would strip the diffs just about everytime they ran the truck and it was a serious issue for just about anyone.
Basically I need to know if I will be replacing diffs on every battery or not. I am planning on running a 7000kv to 8000kv motor with a 3s lipo.
The MLST2 diffs are tons better. Puts the MLST diff and Viscous diffs to shame. I think I even coupled it with MIP steel input gears and center spool and they are holding up well so far. 6800KV motor w/ 3 cell lipo here.
Also wouldn't a lower KV motor put more stress on the diffs as there is more torque?
No sorry I dont on the part numbers. Generally KV equals more power/ torque/ rpm, almost never less torque unless the motor is designed that way on purpose.
Does anynybody knows if it's a chance to replace diff's spider gears with metal ones?
I've shimmed my Mlst2 diff's but often hear some "clicking".
Man the diff issues with MLST are unacceptable. What happened to LOSI used to put out authentically high quality products & now it's just spitting out hurried commercial junk! what a shame.
Man the diff issues with MLST are unacceptable. What happened to LOSI used to put out authentically high quality products & now it's just spitting out hurried commercial junk! what a shame.
Well i agree if we consider the first version of the truck,i've the 2nd (MLST2)version and besides the crappy servos (broke another one a coupple of hours ago) and a little crunchy sound come out of the diff's sometimes,the truck does the job better than many other 1/18 trucks i've had.Metal spiders should be considered as a "must" for extreme bashing and overpowered Bl motors or just a bullet proof upgrade for someone like me that can't spend too much time wrenchin'around.
I love this truck it goes where others(1/18) can only dream of.
I've run a Quark33 + Wraith7k on 3s Lipo for a while in my MLST2 (before I got a Associated 18t) and here's what I learned:
-Shimming the front and rear diffs helps. Basically I mashed them together with shims so that the spider gears are much tighter. This also has the effect of acting like a limited slip diff. You might also want to shim the input gear on the diff so that it meshes better with the diff ring gear.
-The best center diff is the MIP ball diff. I run mine pretty tight and I have to tighten it fairly often as it will loosen up over time. And be sure to put plenty of lithium grease in the center transmission when rebuilding it.
My friend has had good luck by locking the center diff but he's only running a 2s setup with a less powerful motor. When I tried to lock my center I instantly stripped my spider gears in the front diff.
Oh, and 1/10 wheels and tires might look cool but they grip more than the stock tires and they weigh more which means you break more drivetrain parts.
-The best center diff is the MIP ball diff. I run mine pretty tight and I have to tighten it fairly often as it will loosen up over time. And be sure to put plenty of lithium grease in the center transmission when rebuilding it.
What are some thoughts about MIP ball diffs, the ones that seat at the front and rear axles not the center? Has anyone used them and are they any good?
I've got viscous diffs in both my MLST's, and other than the semi annual spider gear replacement, they've been good. I have an MIP ball diff that I am putting in my (4th!!!!) MLST, so I'll have to see how that works, but from what I've read, the MIP ball diff, coupled with the MIP hardened steel pinion, makes for a good combo
here's a link for the pinion
This maybe a stupid question but how do you actually shim the diffs? Not sure how to shim the spider gears or input gear. ALso not sure on what size shims we are talking about.
Mini LST2 Diffs
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