M18 Special Graphite Edition questions

slaytanic · 01-30-2009, 10:31 AM

I just picked up a NIB Limitied Graphite Edition M18. I know it was the precursor to the pro. My question is what is different. Also does the chassis accept 6 cell packs or 3s lipo? Or do I need the extended chassis. Any other thing I should know that I may need to address?

This will be my first trip into the world of small scale rc. There is an indoor carpet track near my house that would be easy for me to get to that is pretty much run what you brung. I want to get a brushless setup that can be extreme but tuned down for the track. Any suggestions?

I am well versed in 1/8 nitro but new to electric and small scale.

Thanks in advance from a small scale noob.

geeunit1014 · 01-30-2009, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slaytanic

I just picked up a NIB Limitied Graphite Edition M18. I know it was the precursor to the pro. My question is what is different. Also does the chassis accept 6 cell packs or 3s lipo? Or do I need the extended chassis. Any other thing I should know that I may need to address?

This will be my first trip into the world of small scale rc. There is an indoor carpet track near my house that would be easy for me to get to that is pretty much run what you brung. I want to get a brushless setup that can be extreme but tuned down for the track. Any suggestions?

I am well versed in 1/8 nitro but new to electric and small scale.

Thanks in advance from a small scale noob.

What is different vs the pro edition:
You have the press on wheels, pro has hex wheels.
You have soft composite arms, it has hard composites
You have either gear diffs or alu. ball diffs, it has plastic ball diffs* (see later)
Im also pretty sure you dont have a topdeck, and the pro does.

The chassis is slotted for 5 cells, a saddle pack 6 cell will fit however. A 3s lipo will fit with tape as long as it has the same length and width as a 5c pack. As for an "extended" chassis, yours is already the longest wheelbase available.

My suggestion for a BL setup: First off, ditch the 3s lipo. Thats pretty much gonna overpower whatever motor you run. I personally use a 6800kv/2s lipo, and I can gear it to be fast on any size track. If you feel you want a little more power, you can use a 8000kv/2s lipo.

Other suggestions.. Dont use any aluminum anywhere! all alu bits that are available arent any more durable than the plastic, and so they are just more expensive. knuckles, driveshafts, everything. plastic is better.

slaytanic · 01-30-2009, 12:16 PM

Thanks man. I already have a True RC 2s lipo that will fit I am pretty sure.

Should I purchase a top deck? And the diffs I will have are okay or should I swap? I hear it comes with 12 degree fronts and people are switching to 6degree? And do the press on wheels allow for more choices or less? How do I know which to buy? Or should I change the hubs out? Thanks!

geeunit1014 · 01-30-2009, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slaytanic

Thanks man. I already have a True RC 2s lipo that will fit I am pretty sure.

Should I purchase a top deck? And the diffs I will have are okay or should I swap? I hear it comes with 12 degree fronts and people are switching to 6degree? And do the press on wheels allow for more choices or less? How do I know which to buy? Or should I change the hubs out? Thanks!

The topdeck will definately help on a carpet track, so I would get one. I would avoid the Pro chassis topdeck, however, as it tweaks very easily. Which diffs do you have? For mod, youl definately need ball diffs. If you have the ones with alu. outdrives, run them unitl the outdrives begin to wear a notch in them, then get the plastic ball diffs. If not just get the plastics. 12* vs 6* is just a tuning option. 6* gives more turn in, 12* gives more steering middle and out of the corner, so its just a preference, and depends on how the car is driving. There is the same amount of choice for press on/ pro hubs, so its what you want to run really. As for compounds, for carpet (assuming ozite), 50 (hard) fronts, and 35 (soft) rears is always a safe place to start. 45 (medium) fronts if you want more steering.

slaytanic · 01-30-2009, 06:46 PM

Which top deck do you recommend?

geeunit1014 · 01-30-2009, 06:55 PM

I would say get the whole Exotek SR3 conversion if you can

If you have to get just a topdeck, Id look around for an Exotek/Motek R2 topdeck. They tweak the least, and dont bow the chassis like some.

Bermbuster · 01-30-2009, 07:15 PM

my graphite edition back in the day came w a solid chassis(no cut outs)
It also came w gear diffs (front is adjustable)
I got a top plate for it from a German company on ebay.

Mini_Me · 01-31-2009, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slaytanic

Which top deck do you recommend?

I have never had an issues with tweak on the Pro top deck. I must point out however, neither the Pros, nor Moteks will work. That SE chassis is slightly a mm or so shorter than the others. So you will in fact warp the chassis and tweak it by trying to use one of those. You would need a new chassis both upper and lower if you wanted something else.

Psycho Man · 01-31-2009, 09:36 AM

I am not familiar with this particular chassis, but if it is not an exact 150mm chassis to use the Exotek top plate, than I would consider purchasing either the Exotek R3 or SR3 chassis conversions. They are the best chassis out there for the M18. My fingers would get sore from typing before I would finish telling you everything they have won over the years. The new SR3 has hellish turn in with its shorter wheelbase. If $$$ is an issue than I would at least keep one on your wish list. I also second Mike Gee about the plastic ball diffs (Superfastrc.com still has them on sale I think). By the way where are you from? It would be great if you were on the east coast as we are always looking for fellow racers.

Psycho Man

slaytanic · 01-31-2009, 03:00 PM

I live in a Chicago. There is Strictly RC 5 minutes from my house. I normally race 1/8th scale buggy but the track is 1 1/2 hours from me. With 3 little boys it's hard to get away for a whole day. This will help me get my racing fix. And who knows, I may get to like electric and/or on road. Thanks for all the advice. I will probably run it as is for a few races to get a feel for it so I can appreciate the Exotek chassis when I get it. I am a die hard Xray man so it's a good fit for me.

Also, I am sponored by Trinity but am ignorant to electric. I get my stuff real cheap from them so do they make anything I could use that is of quality? I see they only have one micro motor.

Bermbuster · 01-31-2009, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slaytanic

I live in a Chicago. There is Strictly RC 5 minutes from my house. I normally race 1/8th scale buggy but the track is 1 1/2 hours from me. With 3 little boys it's hard to get away for a whole day. This will help me get my racing fix. And who knows, I may get to like electric and/or on road. Thanks for all the advice. I will probably run it as is for a few races to get a feel for it so I can appreciate the Exotek chassis when I get it. I am a die hard Xray man so it's a good fit for me.

Also, I am sponored by Trinity but am ignorant to electric. I get my stuff real cheap from them so do they make anything I could use that is of quality? I see they only have one micro motor.

If your going to run at Strictly RC see what racing they offer. Stock, modified ,etc... In a stock type class the chassis without a top plate is not a handicap. You can make your own top plate as well....

Trinity has a few motors and batteries 2/3 a cells or lipo packs...
In your Signature you list Team Helotes now he can hook you up....
I got my x ray m18 graphite edition from him (4 years ago)

geeunit1014 · 01-31-2009, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slaytanic

I live in a Chicago. There is Strictly RC 5 minutes from my house. I normally race 1/8th scale buggy but the track is 1 1/2 hours from me. With 3 little boys it's hard to get away for a whole day. This will help me get my racing fix. And who knows, I may get to like electric and/or on road. Thanks for all the advice. I will probably run it as is for a few races to get a feel for it so I can appreciate the Exotek chassis when I get it. I am a die hard Xray man so it's a good fit for me.

Also, I am sponored by Trinity but am ignorant to electric. I get my stuff real cheap from them so do they make anything I could use that is of quality? I see they only have one micro motor.

The Cobalt B is a 5400, that can be geared to suit a wide range of tracks, its a pretty good option. Defintely get the Exotek if can, its night and day versus what else is available, especially in mod

slaytanic · 02-04-2009, 10:06 AM

Could someone tell me the measurements for battery space? I am shopping for lipo and need to know my size limits. Thanks!

slaytanic · 02-04-2009, 01:04 PM

Would this fit?

http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDH...0C_Lipoly_Pack

slaytanic · 02-04-2009, 01:05 PM

70x35x19mm