You could easily charge the battery at 1C, or 1.6 amps. I've even charged mine at 2.2 amps if I needed it charged in a hurry. Typically the amount of charge amps won't affect the battery's output voltage.
With regards to the gear mesh... there should be the slightest tick of play. Hold the pinion gear and move the spur with your finger. It should move a bit less than 1 mm. You can also take a piece of paper and put it in between the spur and pinion. Don't use a receipt or anything though, that's too thin, but generally a piece of printer paper works fine. You can also tell by ear, if it's too tight it will be sort of a shrill whine.
3. If so, are they properly adjusted so they don't slip too much nor are overtightened?
4. Are my Tx/Rx/ESC set up properly?
5. Is there any binding in the rest of the drivetrain? i.e. no bearings are binding, diff's are seated properly, etc.
6. Is my gear mesh set properly?
7. Is my battery fully charged and properly connected?
This is everything I could think of, just take it one step at a time. These trucks aren't that big, we'll get to the bottom of it eventually
I know some of these issues have been addressed but it would be wise to check once more to eliminate any possibility.
+1
1. Are the axle nuts overtightened? (Tighten until snug, back off 1/4 turn)
2. Are the diffs properly assembled? (Dissasemble, rebuild, reinstall - DO IT!)
3. If so, are they properly adjusted so they don't slip too much nor are overtightened? (refer to #2)
4. Are my Tx/Rx/ESC set up properly? you said you did, but have you tuned it at all or are you using the predesignated stock settings on the esc?
5. Is there any binding in the rest of the drivetrain? i.e. no bearings are binding, diff's are seated properly, etc. (disengage the motor, spin the spur gear. the whole drive train should roll VERY easily and smoothly. If not you have other build issues)
6. Is my gear mesh set properly? (definately make sure this is right, if not the car will run slow)
7. Is my battery fully charged and properly connected? (what sort of charger are you using? Is this your only battery pack? If not, try a different one. If you're not pushing proper amps through it, it will not allow the BLO motor to perform up to expectations)
Before you take it apart, I would hold the 2 front wheel between your legs and turn the 2 rear tires with your hands . While you are turning the wheels you should see the spur turning,or it should have some drag as it would be the diff balls slipping. If the spur doesn't turn and it is easy to turn the rear wheels some thing is wrong with the diff.On my 18t if I hold the rears between my legs and turn the fronts the spur will turn,but if I hold the fronts and turn the rears the spur will not turn. I like my rear diff a little looser then the front.
I would take the diffs apart but I know we did it right. If I didnt assemble them right shouldnt I be able to tell? I callibrated the radio like the manual said so I dont think its that. I would reprogram it but Im not sure how. My charger is the Dynamite Prophet Plus. If I charge it at 2 amps will it make a difference?
Before you take it apart, I would hold the 2 front wheel between your legs and turn the 2 rear tires with your hands . While you are turning the wheels you should see the spur turning,or it should have some drag as it would be the diff balls slipping. If the spur doesn't turn and it is easy to turn the rear wheels some thing is wrong with the diff.On my 18t if I hold the rears between my legs and turn the fronts the spur will turn,but if I hold the fronts and turn the rears the spur will not turn. I like my rear diff a little looser then the front.
Which way do I turn the tires? does it matter?
Edit: I have the truck torn apart, but if i put the driveshafts in and twist them then the spur rotates.
I'm not familiar with that charger, does it have an LCD screen to show you voltage, charge amperage, etc? If I charge my pack at 1C it'll be at 8.4-8.7 volts by the time it is done. Try charging it at 2 amps and see if there is a difference. If the charger doesn't have an LCD screen you could always use a DVOM to check the voltage after each charge. The 6800 will pull a lot from a battery but I know the Orion is capable because as I've said earlier I race with it every weekend.
2. Im not sure but I think they are. I followed the directions exactly.
3. They are smooth, but not too slippery.
4. Not sure. I wish I knew how to reprogram the esc.
5. everything in the drivetrain is working as it should.
6. I think so. What could I check?
7. Battery is fully charged. Ive been charging it at 1 amp. Could that mean anything?
1. What is "a little"?
2. By the sounds of your explanation this morning you never had them tightened correctly in the beginning. Honestly until you go back in and disassemble and rebuild them - following the directions - I'm going to weight out of further replies. I don't think you ever built them correctly in the beginning.
3. What is "not too slippery"? Either they're set correctly, and working right, or they're not.
4. What does that mean? Sounds like you never set it to begin with. Until you do so there's no sense any of us helping you any further because you're saying YOU never set it. Get out the directions and do so.
5. Smoothly, or does anything in the drivetrain not roll smoothly when spinning the spur gear?
6. That there's some play, a wee little bit, in it.
7. What kind of charger are you using? How do you know it's fully charged? Is it a peak charger, or just some junk wallcharger?
I run mine just tight enough that if you spin one wheel all four will spin, but yet turning same-axle wheels the opposite direction is also easy and smooth-feeling. It's hard to describe online since it is such a "feel"-based tuning aspect
2. By the sounds of your explanation this morning you never had them tightened correctly in the beginning. Honestly until you go back in and disassemble and rebuild them - following the directions - I'm going to weight out of further replies. I don't think you ever built them correctly in the beginning.
3. What is "not too slippery"? Either they're set correctly, and working right, or they're not.
4. What does that mean? Sounds like you never set it to begin with. Until you do so there's no sense any of us helping you any further because you're saying YOU never set it. Get out the directions and do so.
5. Smoothly, or does anything in the drivetrain not roll smoothly when spinning the spur gear?
6. That there's some play, a wee little bit, in it.
7. What kind of charger are you using? How do you know it's fully charged? Is it a peak charger, or just some junk wallcharger?
1 half a turn
2 i followed the directions exactly, what are the chances of badly assembling both the diffs?
3 they rotate fine, but theyre not stiff or anything
4 i set it up as the manual said. and the radio is working fine.
5 everything spins perfectly when turning the spur
6 yes
7 the battery has been fully charged at 1 amp and has been connected correctly
I would take the diffs apart but I know we did it right. If I didnt assemble them right shouldnt I be able to tell? I callibrated the radio like the manual said so I dont think its that. I would reprogram it but Im not sure how. My charger is the Dynamite Prophet Plus. If I charge it at 2 amps will it make a difference?
You didn't even get the servo in right, how do you know you got the diffs built correctly. That is a way more complicated task.
You HAVE to recalebrate/set the ESC -- just resetting the radio has nothing to do with the ESC!!!
1 half a turn
2 i followed the directions exactly, what are the chances of badly assembling both the diffs?
3 they rotate fine, but theyre not stiff or anything
4 i set it up as the manual said. and the radio is working fine.
5 everything spins perfectly when turning the spur
6 yes
7 the battery has been fully charged at 1 amp and has been connected correctly
1. okay
2. who's to say? what's the chance of not getting the servo in straight? Not meaning to sound insulting, but diffs HAVE to be be perfect.
3. rotate is one thing, working right is another. it's just worth fighting - disassemble and rebuild.
4. that's the radio, the ESC is an entirely different thing. it HAS to be re-set/calibrated to the radio. setting the radio DOES NOT set the esc.
5. good
6. good
7. OK battery "should" be good, BUT if you have another you might try it. There is such a thing as getting a bad one, it's happened to everyone.
You can't put loctite on the diffscrew, as on the stock diffs it screws straight into plastic (no metal nut) and putting loctite on it will melt the plastic on the other outdrive and cause other issues with the diffs coming loose.
Right I meant CA and I still do this knowing its going into plastic but I tear my diffs down every couple of weeks and clean them and flip the d rings.
Also when it comes to diff lube IMO you can definitely use too much. I put a little diff lube on a plastic baggie (packaging parts come in are great for stuff like this) on roll the diff balls in the lube then pick them up with my x-acto and place them in the diff gear. That's the only part i lube, just the diff balls. Usually when I see diffs fail they're oozing with grease.
Either they're set correctly, and working right, or they're not.
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