WFO is right, get ya a pack of zip-ties and clean those wires up a little bit. It'll keep them from catching on your drivetrain or steering assembly AND it makes the truck look a tons cleaner. Get some blue ones to match
Hell I even used zip ties to hold my 25 ESC to the upper deck because of the odd shape.
1 you said you had a 10/60 you need bigger pinion 15 or 16. 2 you might want to try checking your timing w/usb (esc programing) need to check the setting put it to the highest one. 3 with car in the air and on trigger only one tire spins.if yes check tire nuts may be too tight and hitting hub bearing and locking up car
We have three racers runing Mambas in their 18ts and Rs and they are three times as fast as the video. On a surface like that, they will pull wheelies if you hit full throttle. Something is not right.
Either diffs slipping or broken, wrong gearing, bad battery (which you say it can't be), or motor isn't going to full speed which could be radio and ESC settings.
Some good points already nothing really to add except for going up just a couple teeth on the pinion. For general running around I would start at 60/12 and go from there. If you definitely have the diff situation taken care of do like others have said check the Esc/Tx settings to make sure your getting full throttle. Also to save some wear and tear on the stock diffs you may want a milder punch control setting on the Esc. When properly built there's nothing wrong with running stock diffs. I race carpet oval with a 2s LiPo and 6800kv motor and still use (and like) stock diffs and have no problems with them.
I think I run about a 13 or 14/59 and it seems to have plenty of throttle through the whole RPM range.
With my friend's 18T (he's a newer racer) I changed some settings on the ESC to actually take away some of the acceleration and punch, perhaps you should try doing the opposite! Don't make it undriveable though
I dont know what to do. I know its not getting all the power it should.
I guess Ill tear it apart and see whats going on.
Also, I cleared up the wires, lol.
Ill get to work!
1st you'll wanna make sure you don't bind the drive shaft accidently with a zip tie, don't laugh, I have seen this
And if you do choose to take it apart be sure the diffs are built correct also if you've run them loose at all you've likely ruined the diffs. Usually what will happen is (if you don't melt the tube to the diff gear) is you'll round the edges that hold the d rings in place. Check em out, if they are okay then I would put a tab bit of loc-tite on the end of the diff screw before tightening the diffs again. Also with brushless power I prefer to run the diffs tight, you'll have a lot less diff issues that way.
...........Check em out, if they are okay then I would put a tab bit of loc-tite on the end of the diff screw before tightening the diffs again. .........
You can't put loctite on the diffscrew, as on the stock diffs it screws straight into plastic (no metal nut) and putting loctite on it will melt the plastic on the other outdrive and cause other issues with the diffs coming loose.
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