If it's TOO tight, both wheels will spin evenly because you've all but locked the diff.
Personally I'd just remove the diffs and start over, being very carefull not to lose anything and rebuild and reassemble the diffs - following step-by-step the instructions in the manual - and know what you're working with when you're done.
Otherwise, like a couple of us said before, make sure once it's all put back together make sure and spin the spurgear (without the motor in the car) to see that the entire drivetrain is rolling smoothly and all the wheels turning evenly.
And then make sure your motor gearmesh is correct. Too tight of a gearmesh will not allow it to get up to speed either.
These mini's work on very tight tolerances and can be a pain if you don't work slowly and carefully, and it's better to take your time than have trouble like you seem to be having (maybe because you're used to larger scales that have higher tolerances and more room for error).
Ive done this many a time and it works perfectly.
What is the cause of only one tire spinning in the rear, maybe I broke the diff?
What is the cause of only one tire spinning in the rear, maybe I broke the diff?
Maybe not so perfectly; I've never ever had the problems with any of my RC18s you are.
But its also why I was suggesting earlier to take it apart and disassemble and rebuild the diffs VERY carefully. That way you KNOW what you got, otherwise you're still guessing.
You never did mention whether you re-set/calibrated the ESC to your controller. If you jsut plugged it in and went, it'll never run to full speed either.
How fast is it supposed to accellerate because it seems as if it takesa sec to get to full speed.
Im about to take it outside, wish me luck and thanks for the help!
Takes a sec?
So as yet you haven't even run it up and down the driveway to test it?
For the third time -- You never did mention whether you re-set/calibrated the ESC to your controller. If you just plugged it in and went, it'll never run to full speed either.
If it seems to be studdering under initial acceleration what you're now likely experiencing is called "cogging," that's been throughly documented and discussed and hashed out in numerous other threads discussing brushless systems especically the early mini ones. Part of the problem will likely be less-than-stellar batteries, and the rest you should be able to tune out using a CastleLink and your computer.
It seems like the tires are going so fast when you hold it in the air, but when you set it on the ground it barely goes.
The motor is screaming, but the power is just not getting delivered to the wheels.
Im going to back the diff out all the way and then tighten it to "snug" and then well see.
Then chances are the diffs are not set correctly.
Or you've broken the diff screws by tightening them them way you did spinning the wheels.
DO NOT back them all the way out, you'll lose the little bearings in the thrustbearing part of the outdrive/difftube.
Follow the factory directions - tighten until snug, back off 1/2 turn.
Well, after 3 days, I finally have my FT 18T working. It may not be accelerating as fast as Id like, but it is at least working and going decently fast.
The motor is screaming, but it doesnt seem as if the tires are getting all the power.
Unfortunately it's not just the mini crowd... Guess the same misconception that all gears need greased kind of applies here too in that all hardware needs overtightened.
Not saying that's the case, just speaking in general
Any surface subjected to friction will generally benefit from proper lubrication. Since the diff cases of the rc18 are relatively sealed from contaminants, the bit of lube he's got on the gears won't hurt anything. The "misconception" that diff gears must be run dry is just that.
Although probably not it, could you have overtightened the axle nuts? I've done that before and it seemed to "bog" the motor down. It would go at full RPM but it had crappy acceleration prior to hitting top speed and lagged. It's just another thing that can cause binding in the drivetrain.
Any surface subjected to friction will generally benefit from proper lubrication. Since the diff cases of the rc18 are relatively sealed from contaminants, the bit of lube he's got on the gears won't hurt anything. The "misconception" that diff gears must be run dry is just that.
Sealed relatively tight eh? Do you even own one of these trucks??? They get more crap in the gear cases than anything I've got!!! Also if those gears where meant to greased I'm sure Associated would recommend you do so in the manual (they don't). Just like your spur gear that plastic is self lubricating and requires no additional lubrication so I can assure you they don't want you lubing the diff and bevel gears but you do what you want. If you like to wear your diffs out prematurely that's your prerogative.
Although probably not it, could you have overtightened the axle nuts? I've done that before and it seemed to "bog" the motor down. It would go at full RPM but it had crappy acceleration prior to hitting top speed and lagged. It's just another thing that can cause binding in the drivetrain.
Just a thought!
I'll check that out! I hope thats whats causing the slow acceleration.
I guess Im just used to tire screeching acceleration with my EF Flux.
I might have been wrong, but I assumed this thing would accelerate pretty damn fast.
Sealed relatively tight eh? Do you even own one of these trucks??? They get more crap in the gear cases than anything I've got!!! Also if those gears where meant to greased I'm sure Associated would recommend you do so in the manual (they don't). Just like your spur gear that plastic is self lubricating and requires no additional lubrication so I can assure you they don't want you lubing the diff and bevel gears but you do what you want. If you like to wear your diffs out prematurely that's your prerogative.
+1
Associated says that it even slows them down. So if you want a slower car, lube up the nylon gears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helibrian
Any surface subjected to friction will generally benefit from proper lubrication. Since the diff cases of the rc18 are relatively sealed from contaminants, the bit of lube he's got on the gears won't hurt anything. The "misconception" that diff gears must be run dry is just that.
I think you've got it backwards - that they must be lubed, or that it has any benefit in doing so, that is the "misconception."
On another note, ALWAYS check your connectors on your motor/ESC leads and make sure that they are completely fastened. I've had one of them come apart numerous times racing and it's a bad way to lose a race. It doesn't cause any damage, just brings the truck to a stop and makes it stutter really bad.
Your leads just look halfway connected in the picture is why I said something If you notice them loosening any just wrap some electrical tape around them.
Well, after 3 days, I finally have my FT 18T working. It may not be accelerating as fast as Id like, but it is at least working and going decently fast.
The motor is screaming, but it doesnt seem as if the tires are getting all the power.
Here is a video of the fastest Ive got it going:
It looks way fast, but in person its not as fast as it looks.
So Im happy, Id just do anything to get it to accelerate faster.
Thanks for all the help guys!
It does appear to be stock-ish-ly slow, but it's hard to tell -
are the diffs still loose?
those batteries could be suspect?
there's really no way to know if you set it up right, or if it's freely operating as it should.
and I'd really do something about that spaghetti knot of wires you've got running all over.
Do you even own one of these trucks??? They get more crap in the gear cases than anything I've got!!! Also if those gears where meant to greased I'm sure Associated would recommend you do so in the manual (they don't). Just like your spur gear that plastic is self lubricating and requires no additional lubrication so I can assure you they don't want you lubing the diff and bevel gears but you do what you want. If you like to wear your diffs out prematurely that's your prerogative.
If you notice them loosening any just wrap some electrical tape around them.
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