Nope, I just check the manual and the truck and they are in there right.
One more thing, after assembling the Diffs there was some excess diff lube on the diff gears. That couldnt have anything to do with it could it? I mean its not like its a lot, just a minor coat of it.
Naw, lube on the gears is a good thing. If you loosen up the motor and slide it over to dis-engage the spur gear does the whole drivetrain spin freely? Or is there any binding? Then, with the motor dis-engaged, does the motor spin freely? Does the motor spin slowly/at all?
Naw, lube on the gears is a good thing. If you loosen up the motor and slide it over to dis-engage the spur gear does the whole drivetrain spin freely? Or is there any binding? Then, with the motor dis-engaged, does the motor spin freely? Does the motor spin slowly/at all?
+1
Though the gears themselves really don't need lubing.
But the drivetrain should all work smoothly, and spin freely, before installing the motor. If not, you have something installed incorrectly.
Because I can tell theyre not spinning fast at all, and to confirm my theory I set it on the ground and it didnt move, lol.
Then you either didn't assemble the diffs correctly, or you don't have them adjusted/set correctly. Go back and try again, practice makes perfect. You never want to rush or slam a kit together. Taking your time and working precisely pans out better in the long run.
I'll agree in saying it's in the diffs, sounds like they're loose. Is it possible that you overtightened them and snapped the short outdrive. It's easy to do especially if you haven't had much experience building 18t diffs. Anyway, it will never tighten and you will need to replace the diff tubes if this is the case.
I will also so that there shouldn't be any lube, grease, oil, powdered graphite, ect on any of the gears. They are all supposed to be dry. The only lube in the diff is on the diff balls and that's just enough to coat them and it's on purpose is to keep them from getting too hot.
Another thing I just thought of, is it possible you don't have the diffs in correctly?
While it doesn't clearly show it in the instructions, or the exploded view, the diffs are supposed to be facing in opposite direction to each other when looked at from abover. In your other thread you had a pic and your front diff was installed correctly (gear on the driver's side, of the car) while in the rear it has to face the other way (gear on the passenger side of the car.
If not they will rotate in opposite direction to each other and placing the car on the ground it will not move. It's an easy rookie mistake.
Okay, I tore it apart and tightened the diffs a little.
How tight is "hand tight"? I took the driveshafts out and tightened the diff by spinning the wheel and it tightened a lot, but then we backed off a half turn.
I took it outside and it was going faster and getting more power to the wheels, but not half as much as I would expect it too. How fast should a 18t be going with a sidewinder 6800 with 60/10 gearing?
Should I try to tighten the diffs a little bit more?
Another thing I just thought of, is it possible you don't have the diffs in correctly?
While it doesn't clearly show it in the instructions, or the exploded view, the diffs are supposed to be facing in opposite direction to each other when looked at from abover. In your other thread you had a pic and your front diff was installed correctly (gear on the driver's side, of the car) while in the rear it has to face the other way (gear on the passenger side of the car.
If not they will rotate in opposite direction to each other and placing the car on the ground it will not move. It's an easy rookie mistake.
Theyre in exactly as the manual shows. The front has the diff hear on the left and back on the right.
And when everythings plugged in and working all the tires move in the same correct direction.
Okay, I tore it apart and tightened the diffs a little.
How tight is "hand tight"? I took the driveshafts out and tightened the diff by spinning the wheel and it tightened a lot, but then we backed off a half turn.
I took it outside and it was going faster and getting more power to the wheels, but not half as much as I would expect it too. How fast should a 18t be going with a sidewinder 6800 with 60/10 gearing?
Should I try to tighten the diffs a little bit more?
What else could I do?
Thanks for all the help guys!
My guess is a better description of "hand tight" on mini's is "snug-snug." A lot of guys new to mini's get carried away overtightening the screws and snap them or strip the screw holes out, so you have to be careful. But optimally it should be pretty evident tightening them, out of the car, and going by the factory settings - just tighten the diff screws until "snug-snug" and backing them off 1/2 turn and you should be good to go. That's how I have mine set, though I do have the front diff a little tighter (maybe 1/4 turn off).
But if you were able to get it to "tighten a lot by spinning the wheel" then you obviously had them WAY loose to begin with.
Speed is just too determinate with your batteries, and if you have the ESC set correctly. You did re-calibrate the ESC with your controller, and not just slap it in the car, didn't you?
As someone already mentioned, tightening the diffs willy-nilly will just lead to you breaking the diff screw and needing to replace most of the works. I've always adjusted mine out of the car, in my hands, and they've been fine.
The only other thing I can think of is that maybe you didn't build the diffs correctly.
If the little tiny ball bearings (thrust bearings) in the thrust tube are not all in there, or have fallen out during assembly, then it's going to be near impossible to get the diffs to set.
Personally I'd just remove the diffs and start over, being very carefull not to lose anything and rebuild and reassemble the diffs - following step-by-step the instructions in the manual - and know what you're working with when you're done.
Otherwise, like a couple of us said before, make sure once it's all put back together make sure and spin the spurgear (without the motor in the car) to see that the entire drivetrain is rolling smoothly and all the wheels turning evenly. These mini's work on very tight tolerances and can be a pain if you don't work slowly and carefully, and it's better to take your time than have trouble like you seem to be having (maybe because you're used to larger scales that have higher tolerances and more room for error).
My guess is a better description of "hand tight" on mini's is "snug-snug." A lot of guys new to mini's get carried away overtightening the screws and snap them or strip the screw holes out, so you have to be careful.
Unfortunately it's not just the mini crowd... Guess the same misconception that all gears need greased kind of applies here too in that all hardware needs overtightened.
Not saying that's the case, just speaking in general
Unfortunately it's not just the mini crowd... Guess the same misconception that all gears need greased kind of applies here too in that all hardware needs overtightened.
Not saying that's the case, just speaking in general
Good point! You probably then see it all the time then too.
I keep telling people you're not working on your ford pickup - you're screwing little screws into soft metal or plastic, and plastic gears are self-lubricating
I honestly think, considering this and his other thread, that clamber just got in too big a hurry putting his "kit" together and logged in here before trying to diagnose the problem himself. Everything seems pretty self-evident and shouldn't have been any trouble if everything was neat and tidy.
I must have tightened it too tight because only one of the back tires spins now, but it seems to be getting more power. So Ill loosen it a 1/4 turn.
I have a 1600 mah 7.2v orion supercharge batt btw.
If it's TOO tight, both wheels will spin evenly because you've all but locked the diff.
Personally I'd just remove the diffs and start over, being very carefull not to lose anything and rebuild and reassemble the diffs - following step-by-step the instructions in the manual - and know what you're working with when you're done.
Otherwise, like a couple of us said before, make sure once it's all put back together make sure and spin the spurgear (without the motor in the car) to see that the entire drivetrain is rolling smoothly and all the wheels turning evenly.
And then make sure your motor gearmesh is correct. Too tight of a gearmesh will not allow it to get up to speed either.
These mini's work on very tight tolerances and can be a pain if you don't work slowly and carefully, and it's better to take your time than have trouble like you seem to be having (maybe because you're used to larger scales that have higher tolerances and more room for error).
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