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Old 12-11-2008, 05:09 PM
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Default Anderson 1/18 Buggy

Hi, I'm a nwbie to 1/18 EP and just got my Anderson 1/18 EP buggy ( Same as Dura ) and would ask a few question ass follows :

1) What Pinion would be recommended ? Brands & Types for Brushless
2) Lighter screws sets for the Kit such as titatium
3) Any brands of off-roads tyres to recommend ?
4) What are the after market options parts available.

Thanks to everyone who share.
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Old 12-11-2008, 05:29 PM
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Forget TI screws - get a set of high strength alloy steel socket heads and never worry about screws again. Ck Hexcrews.com - they have sets, only one I've seen that does a set. My MiniQuakes and Vendettas all use them - these are machine screws and make a stronger joint than the wood screw things that come stock. TI is over rated, overhyped and over priced. If you want bling, get the AP hexcrews in bright plated finish.

Types of brushless - I run mamba escs and a variety of motors - Permax and Ammo right now, just be aware the castle motors are too small for the weight of your buggy and will run hot and not last long. There are others - Novak has an offering - Mongoose, but I don't have experience with it, to satisfied running the combos I've got.

DTX parts will fit and the 2 most common probs are the plastc cvds and gear diffs. They are upgraded with steel cvds and diffs with the ball diffs.
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Old 12-11-2008, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Duster_360
Forget TI screws - get a set of high strength alloy steel socket heads and never worry about screws again. Ck Hexcrews.com - they have sets, only one I've seen that does a set. My MiniQuakes and Vendettas all use them - these are machine screws and make a stronger joint than the wood screw things that come stock. TI is over rated, overhyped and over priced. If you want bling, get the AP hexcrews in bright plated finish.

Types of brushless - I run mamba escs and a variety of motors - Permax and Ammo right now, just be aware the castle motors are too small for the weight of your buggy and will run hot and not last long. There are others - Novak has an offering - Mongoose, but I don't have experience with it, to satisfied running the combos I've got.

DTX parts will fit and the 2 most common probs are the plastc cvds and gear diffs. They are upgraded with steel cvds and diffs with the ball diffs.
The armor plated screws are 40.00 with shipping. Way over priced compared to their 16.00 kit.. which is just as good.

Back to the topic.
It all depends on what type of surface/wheels you plan on running on? Look into the Novak Mongoose 10.5 it is a great system for the money and their customer service is very good also. Max Amps makes a 2cell lipo that drops right in too. Use the search function here and a hole world of data will open up to you. Go to tower hobbies on line and they will list every option part availalbe. Best of luck
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Old 12-12-2008, 01:43 AM
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thanks, it's a great help. after Christmas will be going to Hong Kong and hopefully, i could find some new stuffs at RC mart. Anyway, what the differnce between Ball and gear diff. isn't Gear Diff better. Lastly, if i intend to change to ball diff, what r the items i should get as i do not wish to left somthing out during my tour to the shop
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Old 12-12-2008, 04:14 AM
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Now you know what the price of bling it - I use the $16 kits - black oxide finish, they are more than strong enough and make those awful wood screw things go away, lol!

It depends on how crazy you get with brushless, gear diffs do pretty well up to somewhere in the 5000kv range, near that level and above, you start having probs. I ran a set of gear diffs in my buggy with a 3500 and they were trouble free for about a yr, then started acting funny and I replaced them. The gear diffs would be better if they were metal, but they're not - plastic, spyders are kinda weak. The ball diffs are much stronger, period, but are expensive. Here are the dtx ball diffs -

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLXX4&P=X

The other weak area is the outdrives - the piece that sticks out of the diffs that the cvd dogbones engages. The stock plastic ones tend to shear the shaft. You'll get metal replacement with steel cvds, but there are alum ones available (used to be anyway) on ebay.
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Old 12-12-2008, 10:49 AM
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For me personally I like the gear diffs because you can tune them with different weight oils, although the ball diffs work great they will slip if you don't run them pretty much locked after a few runs. I use the steel threaded cvd's with the gear diffs and they work great. Although pricey 37.00 for two they come with bulletproof out drive cups and extra gears for your diffs.
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:17 AM
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almost every question can be answered within my signature below..
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Old 12-12-2008, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jaejw1
almost every question can be answered within my signature below..
Including the meaning of life ?!?

jae, you still got some of those steel lower hinge plates left ? need another 2, thanx.
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by buttmonkey1969
Including the meaning of life ?!?

jae, you still got some of those steel lower hinge plates left ? need another 2, thanx.
yeah,,, still have some left....

I think in one of those links the meaningof life is in there ...lol
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:56 PM
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Thanks, Think i will try to get a ball diff when i visit RCmart and hopefully they have the stock available.

Thanks.

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Old 12-12-2008, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by fatboy
Thanks, Think i will try to get a ball diff when i visit RCmart and hopefully they have the stock available.

Thanks.

what kind of brushless motor you plan on getting
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Old 12-12-2008, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jaejw1
what kind of brushless motor you plan on getting
Don't even say it!
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Old 12-12-2008, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gashuffer
Don't even say it!
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Old 12-13-2008, 02:17 AM
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perhaps a MAMBA and should see what RCmart Have
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Old 12-13-2008, 10:34 AM
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mamba 's and vendettas dont belong in the same sentence,,

http://www.rctech.net/forum/micro-mi...pros-cons.html
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