Ok,Newbie here. Can someone help me with basic setup and breakin on this car. I want to race this sat. and dont want to look badPMs or replies greatly apprec. All the best, alice
Ok,Newbie here. Can someone help me with basic setup and breakin on this car. I want to race this sat. and dont want to look badPMs or replies greatly apprec. All the best, alice
Quote:
Originally Posted by alice
I will be racing on a indoor short carpet track. thanks
Assumming you are keeping everything completly stock as you have purchased it as a RTR, I would only change the shock oil and springs. At our track, that is the only thing allowed to change for stock and it really worked well. You will need to purchase the following (optional LOSI Mini-T items):
Front shock springs (3pr) - P/N LOSB1117
Rear shock springs (3pr) - P/N LOSB1119
LOSI shock oil 90wt
LOSI shock oil 80wt
LOSI shock oil 60wt
LOSI shock oil 40wt
Put the orange front spring on the RT front shock with 80wt shock oil. Put the pink front spring on the LT front shock with 40wt shock oil. Put the green rear spring on the RT rear shock with 60wt shock oil. Put the blue rear spring on the LT rear shock with 90wt shock oil. With the battery in the car (ready to race) you should adjust your shocks (ride height spacers) so the car sits 8 to 10mm ground clearance, no higher. You are now ready to kick some a## and have fun. Just remember to be patient turning in the corners. You may need to adjust your steering D/R in your radio depending on the size of your short track and maybe go to a smaller pinion. If you want to try this proven method and you are happy with it, let me know how you did. Good luck.
So much of set-up and tuning has to do with finding out what works for yourself at the track you're running. There is no "pat" answer to what works for everyone everywhere. Try this baseline set-up and adjust from there.
50wt oil front, 70wt rear
gold AE springs front, blue AE springs rear
set rideheight so the arms are level in the front, dogbones level in the rear
I will be racing on a indoor short carpet track. thanks
The car can be made to handle just fine with the stock shocks and springs on carpet. As a basic setup you can do the following:
Remove all shock spacers from both fronts
Move the RF shock to the outside hole on the shock tower.
Remove the shock mount extension on the RR suspension arm and mount the shock directly to the arm itself. Leave the one on the LR. (yes I know it seems odd, but it works)
Even up the camber on both left side tires. More than likely they will be set negative from the factory (top of tire tilted towards the chassis). Just remove one side of the turn-buckle and unscrew one of the ball-cups a turn at a time until the tire looks like it is sitting straight up.
Check the front toe and make sure it is even (front tires should be pointing straight parallel to each other). Either eye-ball it or check with dial-calipers.
Try running the car a few laps. If it wants to try and traction roll, first try and take the spacers out of the RR shock. If it still wants to roll, go ahead and put CA glue on the RF tire. Just apply a thin layer to the very outside tread and a little onto the shoulder. You don't really need to do the whole sidewall like most think, but it wouldn't hurt. Make sure you let it dry first before running again (obviously). Try tuning the car with the upper shock mounts (moving the top of the shock in our out).
Also monitor the shocks for leaking. 99% of the time they will leak almost immediately (sometimes while still in the box) and basically become nothing but air inside. Go ahead and refill with 60 - 70wt shock oil (follow instructions that came with the car). To stop the leaking you can go get some plumber's teflon tape from the hardware store and cut a small strip, wrap it around the shock cartridge threads once or twice, and screw the cartridge on like normal. This seems to have worked on all shocks I've done that leaked.
> First move batt to left side and mount electronics in the mid... I know you probably did this already!
This is good info.
I knew I was going to forget something... I completely forgot about moving the electronics... product of not having the car with me I guess... lol. You'll want to move the ESC down to the chassis (from the top deck) and the reciever to the middle. Moving the reciever isn't as big of a deal as moving the ESC to the bottom, but every little bit helps.
At our track we are allowed to go up to a 1600 mah battery but we must keep the stock motor and ecs.
With that said I have swapped out the stock shocks for the aluminum one due to the leaking issue I was fighting with the plastic shocks and I also swapped out the stock diff for a ball diff because I lost the gears in the rear end twice within 1 hour of run time.
As far as the suspension goes. I am using all the stock springs with 50wt Losi oil in all the shocks. I have both the front and rear shocks mounted as far out on the A-Arms as possible and as far in on the shock tower as possible. I have a 2mm shim on the right rear shock and 4 mm shims on both front shocks. This parts the front of the car slightly higher than the rear of the car but due to the lighter oil it allows the front end to dive into corners or stay high if you want to power through the corners.
One of the biggest things that I think a lot of people over look is the slipper. I have my slipper adjusted to the point that I can spin the spur gear with a full throttle blast but under smooth acceleration it doesnt slip. This allows me to corner without worry of the rearend washing out.
Our track is about 2/3's the size of a basketball court and I am able to turn about 3 second laps with this setup.
So much of set-up and tuning has to do with finding out what works for yourself at the track you're running. There is no "pat" answer to what works for everyone everywhere.
+1
6 posts and 6 differing set ups. It's someplace for you to start at least.
After that it's what feels right to you.
6 posts and 6 differing set ups. It's someplace for you to start at least.
After that it's what feels right to you.
I couldnt agree more. The one thing that I think is good about this thread is all the information. When I started running the Late Model you couldnt find any information about any type of setup so maybe this thread will help those looking for setups.
By the way my setup is for a basketball court size track with short, extremely tight weaved yarn!!! It is a carpeted basketball court in all seriousness So you can imagine how tight the carpet is.
Gee, thanks for all the help guys. I went to the track last night and got my azz KICKED! God, how embarrasing I have raced real dirt modifieds sporstman, street stock, go carts, snowmobiles and i have never looked this bad. It is not any of your setups, it is that i am new to this hooby and i need help on the basics of driving this blasted thing. I did not make the feature, but ill be back next week. Keep the helpful input coming. Is there a good driving sim. i can purchase. All the best, Sideways (alice)
One driving tip (at least this works for me on our local dirt oval)... The MiniLM, like all LOSI's has a tendency to snap loose (spin) if you get out of the throttle on corner entry -- I have to "roll" back to about half throttle on corner entry, then about midway through the turn, "roll" back into the throttle on corner exit... You cannot be jerky with the throttle or just "grip it and rip it" -- even with the stock motor and ESC...
You may also want to use a small rubber band over the ball studs on the steering bellcranks to take the slop out of the steering...
__________________
"If you cannot win, make the one ahead of you break the record."
My "Home Club": Columbia Thunder
My local indoor Dirt Oval: The RC Race Barn
Gee, thanks for all the help guys. I went to the track last night and got my azz KICKED! God, how embarrasing I have raced real dirt modifieds sporstman, street stock, go carts, snowmobiles and i have never looked this bad. It is not any of your setups, it is that i am new to this hooby and i need help on the basics of driving this blasted thing. I did not make the feature, but ill be back next week. Keep the helpful input coming. Is there a good driving sim. i can purchase. All the best, Sideways (alice)
Everybody gets their azz kicked when they first start, any racing. It's part of the learning experience. Only thing is that with RC there is a lot of hand-eye fast muscle twitch skills not needed in other forms of racing. It's why kids that have video games adapt so quickly. You'll get better each time you run, so just be patient. Follow tfrahm's advice on throttle control. You have to go slow to go fast.
Nice info in this thread. A few of us have decided to swap out the electronics for a 6000kv brushless system and lipo batteries. With our current setups we are about the same speed as stock. Just curious if anyone else has tried brushless in there late models?
Nice infor in this thread. A few of us have decided to swap out the electronics for a 6000kv brushless system and lipo batteries. With our current setups we are about the same speed as stock. Just curious if anyone else has tried brushless in there late models?
I've run my Slider with a 6800 for two years now and its way faster than stock. My 5400 set-up in my Late Model is closer to stock speed but still quicker. I know of a track they allow the choice between stock and a 4200 BL set-up and they tell me they're dead even.
1/18 Losi latemodel help pretty please
PMs or replies greatly apprec. All the best, alice
