unless the asphalt is unusually flat, if you are running the short shocks you cant really put that much droop on the shaft without risking bottoming out.
i run my car at about 3-4mm ride height and just use the shock preload to control how high i am
if your track is bumpy you might look at taking off the gear cover on the bottom, that will make your car lose traction on the rear and act funny, however, put a piece of that chassis saver tape over it to keep rocks and crap out.
unless the asphalt is unusually flat, if you are running the short shocks you cant really put that much droop on the shaft without risking bottoming out.
i run my car at about 3-4mm ride height and just use the shock preload to control how high i am
if your track is bumpy you might look at taking off the gear cover on the bottom, that will make your car lose traction on the rear and act funny, however, put a piece of that chassis saver tape over it to keep rocks and crap out.
I don't think removing the gear cover is going to reduce traction.
When you say shock preload, are you talking about spring spacers? That won't affect ride height, it will change firmness.
Your post is rather confusing.
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when the gear cover on the bottom of your chassis bottoms out, your rear tires will lose traction, this will happen on bumpy tracks.
as far as the ride height and preload spacers, that is the way you set ride height on any car. the extension of the shock is greater than the length of the spring.
droop will only affect how much your car will rise from the current ride height as in going over bumps and chassis roll.
firmness will be changed when you change to a different spring. AE blue springs are softer than gold ones.
when the gear cover on the bottom of your chassis bottoms out, your rear tires will lose traction, this will happen on bumpy tracks.
as far as the ride height and preload spacers, that is the way you set ride height on any car. the extension of the shock is greater than the length of the spring.
droop will only affect how much your car will rise from the current ride height as in going over bumps and chassis roll.
firmness will be changed when you change to a different spring. AE blue springs are softer than gold ones.
Okay. Well that makes sense. The way you had your last post worded, I read it as if you were saying removing the gear cover would mess up traction. <shrug> But I get what you're saying. I think I'll do okay with it on, though. The track is pretty good.
I'm not so sure about springs and height.... but!... you did bring it to my attention that Associated has different weight springs. That's definitely something I'm interested in and I'll most likely grab some gold springs.
I did notice, though, that the weight ratings, even for the same colors, are different between the front and back. Example, Gold: front 3.45 && rear 2.35
I'm curious as to why they were made different. Is it because of crouching under acceleration?
This is all good stuff... the 1/18 class is saturated with Recoils. In fact, last time I was a spectator, that's ALL there was. I would sure like to get up there in the ranks with an "outsider" car. Ha!
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Recoils aren't even 18th scale so someone at your LHS needs to get off the pipe or start a dedicated 18r class. That or convince them to put some bumps/jumps in and the recoils will have a hard time keeping up with you.
As far as the shock spring ratings.....are you sure you're not looking at the "rears" for the 18t/b? they are longer whereas the 18r uses front springs/shocks on all 4 corners.
Recoils aren't even 18th scale so someone at your LHS needs to get off the pipe or start a dedicated 18r class. That or convince them to put some bumps/jumps in and the recoils will have a hard time keeping up with you.
We are putting together rules for a near box stock 18r class racing on RCP. We thought about going the recoil route but the cars are just not as stable or as well built at the 18r.
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Recoils aren't even 18th scale so someone at your LHS needs to get off the pipe or start a dedicated 18r class. That or convince them to put some bumps/jumps in and the recoils will have a hard time keeping up with you.
As far as the shock spring ratings.....are you sure you're not looking at the "rears" for the 18t/b? they are longer whereas the 18r uses front springs/shocks on all 4 corners.
Ya, I guess they figure it's close enough. I don't know. I suppose it makes it more competitive, too. Making it strictly 18th would probably decrease the numbers... and a 1/14th would make it just the Recoils.
Meh.. I'm okay with it. I think they use the same size motors (stock) at least. Right?
According to the AE parts PDF the front and rear shocks are different lengths with different springs.
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Yeah, they do run the same size stockers (370s), but the recoil is way better suited for onroad and will be able to carry much more speed through the corners. It would be fun though, to whup some 14ths with an 18r. Sorry about the shock length thing......I've never actually bought a new 18r and the only one I have is sporting 18t FT front shocks all the way around.
the reason for the discrepancy on the shock spring length on the ae pdf is that is the pdf for the entire rc18 series r b t and mt. the r uses the same length spring on both front and rear.
at our track they allow basically any 18th onroad and we do include the recoil, however no one has yet to put up a challenge to the 18r, besides, the recoil's that i have seen have been fragile compared with an 18r smacking the pipes and just keeps on going.
even if the recoils are better suited to onroad, i have heard some super secret things from a certain aftermarket company that will change that ))
the recoils look good from a pure touring car view, but the ones i have handled seem a bit too stiff in the chassis for good asphalt racing, and the shocks are a bit.. ehh. the way the wheels are driven doesn't appeal to me either.. i like the ae crosspin in the axle compared to the recoil's triangular thing a hickey.
When you say shock preload, are you talking about spring spacers? That won't affect ride height, it will change firmness.
Changing preload definitely modifies ride height. Spring stiffness and shock oils modify rebound and suspension firmness. If you really want a competitive 18R I highly recommend the Exotek R18 conversion. Much easier to balance, better battery options, actual droop adjustments, and with a dual deck design it's much more like it's TC counterparts in 10th scale. 18R uses same shocks and springs front and rear (and I typically run gold springs in front and blue in back).
unless the asphalt is unusually flat, if you are running the short shocks you cant really put that much droop on the shaft without risking bottoming out.
i run my car at about 3-4mm ride height and just use the shock preload to control how high i am
if your track is bumpy you might look at taking off the gear cover on the bottom, that will make your car lose traction on the rear and act funny, however, put a piece of that chassis saver tape over it to keep rocks and crap out.
cory are you getting any of these tips )))
I sure am after I saw your car run!!!
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THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL THE MORALE IMPROVES!!!
Wow! I put two of these o-rings in each shock. At first I thought one would be enough, but two is a lot better. I'm still using 60wt oil and the stock blue springs. I think I need to experiment with the gold springs. But holy cow this this handles amazingly better.
My battery pack feels the effects of the heat radiating off a hot sun scorched road.
Does any one know of a thin material that would work well as a heat shield to put sandwich between the pack and chassis?
Is this even feasible?
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Last edited by watts300; 09-12-2008 at 03:30 PM.
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