Takes two days for your items to arrive. They are in California.
Bending Corners is having a full practice day this Saturday as well. I will probably be there with my 18R and 1/10th.
As far as ripping a dog bone, I don't know how horrible a collision you would need to be involved in for that to occur. I haven't broken a single part on mine.
I have posted some video in the Beltran thread in the Mini section and you can check out some video of my 18R and others in action.
OK guys. I've been sucked into the 18r thing. First thing I want to upgrade are the CVD's. (Already done the ESC and receiver.) Who's got the best CVD's out there? I'm assuming MIP but they're so damn expensive. Are any of the others comparable? Also, what's the best place to buy stuff for this little thing. I've found a few small online stores but they seem very limited. They'll have 10 or 12 items and only one thing I need. The next store will have one more thing I need and 10 that I don't. Is there a good place that's going to have the majority of the better hop ups and stock parts so I can one stop shop?
I'll post up a pic once I get my body back from being painted.
Spend the extra dollars on the MIP stuff. They offer replacement parts to rebuild the CVDs and their customer service is top notch.
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Float like an anvil. Sting like a Q-Tip!
OK guys. I've been sucked into the 18r thing. First thing I want to upgrade are the CVD's. (Already done the ESC and receiver.) Who's got the best CVD's out there? I'm assuming MIP but they're so damn expensive. Are any of the others comparable? Also, what's the best place to buy stuff for this little thing. I've found a few small online stores but they seem very limited. They'll have 10 or 12 items and only one thing I need. The next store will have one more thing I need and 10 that I don't. Is there a good place that's going to have the majority of the better hop ups and stock parts so I can one stop shop?
I'll post up a pic once I get my body back from being painted.
IMO, the MIP CVD's are the best. And you get what you pay for. I've had them in my 18R for almost two years now and have had zero problems. It's raced every week at my local carpet track with a Castle 4200kv brushless and 7.4v lipo. At big races like the Nat's at RCMadness and the Mini Great Lakes Challenge, I put in a 9200kv C4 brushless. Again, zero problems. Also, get them for front and rear along with diffs front and rear. I would also suggest (from experiance) not to run a one way up front, stick with the diff up front. Try - thetoyz.com. for your online 18R needs. Thetoyz has quite a large assortment of parts for the 18R. Good luck.
The MIP stuff is the best, I have the aluminum spool up front with the steel cvds, and the diff and cvds out back, Keep them clean and greased up. They will probably out last the car. Looks like everyone else agrees also. The plastic stuff will give up pretty quick if you put any kind of horsepower in the car, especially the diffs. Towerhobbies stocks MIP stuff also.
The steel cvds and outdrives on the MIP stuff do not flat spot or notch and cause handling issues like the stock stuff. If you leave the car bone stock it will be fine without the upgrades, otherwise its worth the money along with a metal gear steering servo.
I used some of the cheap aluminum CVD's and noticed they were wearing strangely at the ball and were getting cut from the diff due to the larger size that the MIP versions. This was while running oval, so the right rear was loading really heavy, using all the travel. Would spend the extra $$ and get MIP. Also had my Ti diff start to notch the outdrives after 2 race days. Not nearly up the quality of MIP. So put in an MIP diff instead. So much for 1/18 scale being cheap. I think I could have built a 10th scale for what it costs to upgrade all the stuff on the 18R.
I have MIP in the front and the cheap ones in the rear. Did that after I found that the rear end wagged from side to side when going slowly with the stock dog bones. I think it is due to the change in speed due to the dog bones, hence the Constant Velocity on the CVD's.
I would say to drive it as is so that you get a feel for the car and you can make your own decisions from there.
I run the Novak 10.5 and have been for some time. I have upgraded the front with the MIP diff outdrives, CVDs and steel gears while my rear end remains stock. I race my 18R on asphalt and so will you. Perhaps racing on carpet places additional strain on the components that we will not experience racing on asphalt.
I'm not getting into this to get serious again. Been there done that. Spending thousands on cars, parts, motors, batteries, tires, travel expenses, (even with sponsors) and stressing about results. Having to time tire saucing and warming to the minute. Running 3.5 brushless motors and killing 5 cell packs after 5-10 cycles on them. Having to run a new set of tires every run to try and keep up with the full factory guys. I got burned out after 4 years of that. I'm just getting this thing to go goof off at Ray's track from time to time. Maybe head up to BCR once in a blue moon. I ordered a set of the MIPs for the front. If the rears start to show wear, I'll pick up a set for the rear and maybe eventually a few other things.
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