Exotek TEK18 racer

[frogger]

I've got a new little project going on. I'll only be updating it HERE

I've had my Exotek for a while and I have not really focussed on it but I have decided to give it some attention as I have realised how much I love driving this car! :good:

It's fast and very robust! It sticks to the ground like nothing I have seen before and jumps like a loon!

At the same time I have decided to build up a second one to better on some of the mistakes on the first one and to have a spare 'just in case'

I started the first build with a Team Associated FT RC18B kit, an Exotec conversion and some bits and pieces.
Alloy diffs
Alloy outdrives
Alloy hub carriers front and rear
Alloy c-hubs
carbide diff balls
some titanium screws
parts from the FT RC18B kit
AE shocks
Gecko 30shore front foams all round trued to 57mm.
Wraith 7K motor
Quark 33A ESC
Spektrum micro receiver
Yeah Racing 900mah 20c lipo's in saddle pack configuration (so 1800mah in total)

I've had to make zero modifications apart from those mentioned in the Exotek build manual to make it all fit and it fits absolutely perfectly!

Car setup:
Front
80W oil + Gold springs
3mm travel limiter in shocks (nitro fuel tube cut)
Toe +1 deg
Camber -1 deg

Rear
30W oil + blue springs
3mm travel limiter in shocks (nitro fuel tube cut)
Camber -1 deg

Ride height: bones just below level

Issues so far:
1. I've bent 4 x GPM titanium CVD's so we are back to the original dogbones for the time being. More CVD's on order!
2. The alloy outdrives must have the collars installed otherwise they just bend open

The second car will have titanium outdrives and MIP CVD's fitted straight away and will run with a Tekin Mini Rage ESC to start with.





















BTW - the second car is running the prototype Atomic Carbon shock towers.

You might notice on the new car that I am running AE rear shocks on the front in the outside mounting hole and that all 4 shocks have Driven productions spring retainer caps on.

The first car is using a Hitec HS-65HB servo with stock but modified servo saver. The second car is using a Hitec HS-82MG with Xray M18 servo saver. I've had to modify the M18 servo saver to clear the steering linkage and because it's much wider I've had to stick it down (and only used 1 side of the servo mount). I've also had to cut the inside tab off to clear the drive shaft.

In the new car I might experiment with running just 1 lipo and dropping the elctronics to the chassis with a counter weight. As soon as I get the CVD's I'll start putting the car together and post some more pics.

I also still need to source a Tekin ESC! It shouldn't be this hard!

[oXYnary]

Next one, don't get all those aluminum parts. They just weight the car down, and bend or transfer the damage to another part of the car.

The second one you went with RPM's. Good choice.

[frogger]

Weight isn't an issue on this car with lipo batteries. They are so light I actually need to add chassis weights (look under the receiver) otherwise the car is all over the place. The second car will run with a single lipo on one side and with the elctronics on the chassis so it will be even lighter!

The cars are used for indoor carpet racing with jumps.

Both cars are running RPM wishbones and bumpers. Hopefully the RPM bumpers and turnbuckle ball cups will be enough to absorb shock effectively. The alloy gearboxes fit super nicely, weigh next to nothing more than the plastic ones and help with tight gear mesh.

[oXYnary]

IMOHO adding weight for weight versus distribution is a sign of a unoptimized setup.

[frogger]

I see your point but not necessarily.
If a car's weight is too low then it's dificult to drive, can be inconsistent, twitchy and unstable. You can also struggle to find grip.

In the case of the weight under my receiver it is to balance the car (as the Wraith motor and alloy motor mount weigh about 70gr compared to the servo and receiver's 30gr) but also to add weight for stability.

I have played with weight distribution to see how it affects steering but since the car was so inconsistent it was hard to guage. Problem is adding weight also makes the car more prone to damage but since it's all carbon fibre and RPM I'm not worried about reliability!

The car has done 20mph car wheels and the only stuff that ever suffers are the GPM titanium CVD's! I've ordered some MIP CVD's to see if they last better.

I have done a lot to make the car more stable. I run the dual rate down to about 45%, -20% expo on the steering and a hard front end, all of which has helped. The jumps we have on some of our tracks are quite big and so the 80W oil and gold springs helps absorb the landings too.

[Thomas P]

Looks real good frogger, but my tip is, skip the titanium,alu parts..spec in/on tranny. Get the MIP Superdifs, and then you have no more issiues...best there is ED

[BuggyKing]

looking good.

[gashuffer]

Which li-po's are those, they fit perfectly?

[racingboy14]

looks very clean car. Been wanting to get one of those! You race I assume, how well do you place with it?