DanielC.

iTrader: (56)

koo, looks like a great setup. mine on the other hand is set up for speed runs, hoping to get some serious speed. its hitting 60 right now... on a 2cell lipo

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

the mamba 25's (sidewinders) work fine, i run mine currently with an 8k and 3s lipo and its fine

fpart

iTrader: (41)

Does anyone know where I can get an aftermarket chassis for Recoil Pro? I want to get it narrower and get rid of the lexan battery holder.

Russ Winn

Hello, I just picked one up at the LHS. I don't race, nor do I plan on going brushless. I wanted to start by running my Orion Big Block with 7 cells (from my MRS4) until I found a better motor. The question I have is with the blue alloy mount, do you need to use special pinions? I cannot move the pinion any further out on the motor shaft, and the mesh across the face of the gears in really insufficient (less than half). It seems as if it needs longer pinions...Thanks in advance.

-Russ

bmcallister

iTrader: (23)

I am looking to buy a spashett pro edition recoil if anyone knows of any good deals out there. Email me at [email protected]

thanks

bmcallister

iTrader: (23)

anyone?

fpart

iTrader: (41)

I have a used one for sale if you are interested.

beers4evo

iTrader: (7)

hey guys i just bought my ARR recoil pro kit and im new to the electric world...I'm not sure whats a good motor+esc combo, pitch, and what lipo for this car...nothing to drastic in price because im not using it for competition or anything, but something with good power output, so that i can get around on a track and have fun...im from australia...

Also out of the box is there anything i should check, shocks, oil, setup settings, diffs, arms, etc etc.


thanks.

biz77

iTrader: (47)

I can't comment on the power for your ride. I run a spec Recoil class locally and we are only allowed to run the Associated 370 motors in ours. Our course is small and quite tight. We typically run the same lap times as 27 turn foam touring cars on this track to give you an idea of speed.

For your next question, yes the Recoil needs TLC out of the box as seen elsewhere in this thread. First thing you want to do is dissassemble the entire car. I found LOTS wrong with mine out of the box, including a missing hub bearing. The component tolerances and build quality are mediocre to put it nicely.
If you are allowed to replace the bearings I would. I would replace the hub bearings with ceramic (I'm not allowed so I must run the crappy Sportwerks bearings). These get eaten up by hard hits on the wheels and I've gone through a few from the lovely carpet that we run on.
The next thing I would do is yank apart the ball diffs. Clean out that nasty goo they call diff lube and hit the rings with 500-600 grit paper to flatten them out. I would replace the balls with something else that doesn't suck. Robitronic 3mm balls for the Scalpel work well and last a while.
Next, the suspesion needs some loving. I would replace the seals, pistons and rods with the Associated RC18 parts. The stock hardware here is also bordering on horrible. Refill with something thicker than 25wt. I run 50 all around with stock springs on trued pink foams.
Lastly get rid of that chassis. It is a fiberglass core with graphite overlay. It's heavy and too flexible and with all that garbage bolted above it it is easily tweaked.
Have fun.

Casey Belarde

iTrader: (10)

hey Chad when you used the AE t/b/r shock shafts did you have to buy 2 sets? and you did you use only the front shock shafts?