One lacking thus far. Made one for sharing of information between racers.
I will start with my own little bit.
I recently got the NT18T spring kit. It is a harder spring set than the normal stock. I race mine on a carpet track with jumps, and this spring set really helped to keep the car more stable versus in the past when I had tried the quake white springs. The problem with the mini quake springs are they are not the correct length, so I couldn't get the ride height I sought out of them easily.
Anyhow, TQed and took first with this new setup. The truck landed exceptionally well, and I had a good amount of cornering speed at low and high end. In fact I turned my dual rate down.
I used the Xray aluminum shocks with the two hole pistons. 50wt Ae oil up front with 40wt AE oil in rear.
foam compounds were hard fronts, purple/orange , soft rear gray or magenta Trued to 46mm [ made my own wheels by cutting the ribs off Xray ones and gluing 12/th scale donuts on them.
I'm looking at making mine a little firmer, I race on hard packed clay tracks mainly, the stock kit handles lovely, but it bottoms out fairly easily. something slightly firmer than standard would be ideal can I make mini-T springs fit i wonder?
What are your thoughts on the alu xray shocks? the standard ones leak out fairly fast.. i see the alu ones have what looks like decent seals around the base..
I just purchased a Trinity Cobalt 14T motor. I've not put it in the car yet, but I did plug it into the standard XRAY 300R esc and rev her up a few times, works fine. Will see how the esc holds up for a 5 min race with this motor...
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Now consider I am biased. However, I really do like the Xray aluminum shocks. They are totally rebuildable and hard coated. The only thing to realize is you just have to hand tighten the cap versus screwing it down lots. I made that mistake and ruined the top diaphram in one (luckily used stock ones to replace). One good tip for any shock building is use AE green slime on the seals. Makes them last that much longer.
The nt18t springs (see link in first post) are harder than the stock kit ones, they should help with your problem (as well as thicker oil and 2 hole piston).
Here is a video of racing this week. Im the one in the lead (you don't see much of the truck unfortunately as I am in other parts of the track except when lapping). It the green truck blur.
I later went to the 1mm sway bar up front versus the 1.5. I hooked just a tad much coming off the straight into the infield at higher speeds, and this helped.
mini those tires are great, but over the weekend i found a more forgiving tire setup--d.pink orange front/d. pink rear....but the ticket def is to try zacks and the rcmadness boys tire/wheel selection..car is slammed and handled incredilbly, cant even describe the way them guys wheeled the car this weekend, i sure hope someone got video
He has a better quality one on his site to download but I think you have to be a forum member to get it?
BTW was Zack or you running touring rims? My local dealer has said ordering 1/12th foams is harder these days since so many companies premount.
good vids...so hard seeing yourself race- get to see all the mistakes- in the formula 18 vid i saw right where i lost the race for myself (not like i was going to win, but coulda def been in contention for at least 4th )
yea Ox, i am running 1/10th scale wheels/tires, zack is using the m18t wheels with 1/12th foams- hes running purple/orange front/magenta rear..i forget who makes the fronts but the rears are CRC..and you aint kidding about finding a source, so far i have been unable to source them online..Jim Barry said RcMadness stocks them so might be giving them a call sooner or later
I can pipe in. My information isn't up to date though since many people just CA their tires these days. I can give you the older method that allows you to reuse your rims easier, but is more dangerous health wise and takes longer to dry.
First, as probably the Barry's told you, they cut off the lip on the rim. The easiest way to to this would be on the tire truer. Which, you have to enlarge the opening hole on the rim so it can fit directly on the truers shaft (which is why the Barrys have washers on the rim in part-to keep the nut on). Then you scratch up the contact surface the foam will be using with some rough sandpaper. Wash and dry the rim to remove any dirt, and your ready for the next section.
The oldstyle is using foam tire glue (TRC Foam Tire Glue in example), which really is a very special type of rubber cement.
You get the glue all over the inside of the tire and rim contact area. Let them both dry for about 4-6 minutes. Then dunk the rim into some lacquer thinner (someone said you could use rubbing alcohol as a stand in-not sure its strong enough) and then quickly put it over the rim. A tire horn helps in this, not sure the Kimbrough one made for 1/12ths would be too small or large.
Let the glue dry for about an hour (or however long the glue directions say). Then have the truer on a low speed and cut off the excess foam over the edges before starting to true normally.
The newer method is CA'ing the foam on. However, it's harder to reuse your rim, and keeping the foam "straight" as you glue it in sections.
There used to be a foam tire glue called Black Voodoo or Magic. It was the best of the best. Not sure what its called or available anymore. Anyone?
Xray M18T Official Thread
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