xray motor?? lol i been trying to find a stock xray motor for about 5 months now. yes they seem to be the best but i know what he is talking about because i had the same problem with stock class. i got the best of everything got the car dialed it looks like its on rails but some people just walk away from you. i just changed the esc to th lrp qc2 & is didnt help lol
We run on an RCP track http://www.hircr.com/ so I dont know how much help I can give. Our track might be a little tighter than what yall run on. The trick on our track is to keep the weight of the car down as much as possible. An extra ounce makes a HUGE difference. Most of us are are running the Motek 140mm chassis. The reason is it never tweaks, its light and the shorter wheelbase allows the car to pivot better like Bobby Z is saying. When I say pivot, its like the front to rear is nuetral and theres this imaginary point in the car, hopefully near the center that it "Rotates" on during cornering. If you have push or not enough steering, you lose.
We have a problem with steering on our track. We have too much steering. We have so much traction that we lock down the front end. I mean, no suspension travel at all. And we loosen up the rear as much as possible. We never use Paragon on the front tires.
Bearings are an issue with XRay. If you havent upgraded bearings yet, you need to do so. I love XRay, but their bearings suck!
Ball diffs are a must! As is a Spectrum pro micro receiver.
ok on our track most run the 150 motek some stock & xray chassis i run the eits chassis. the track is about 100x36. we run the stock diffs with no problems. we use hand cleaner for the tires works great. our cars have to be 15oz. or more. my car is 15.5. i run ajustable shocks all around & ride height is 3mm at the most with about 4mm travel all together. as for the bearings i clean mine about 2 or 3 times a season running only 1 drop royal oil in them with no problems & run only 1 side of the bearing shield to help keep dirt out.
ok on our track most run the 150 motek some stock & xray chassis i run the eits chassis. the track is about 100x36. we run the stock diffs with no problems. we use hand cleaner for the tires works great. our cars have to be 15oz. or more. my car is 15.5. i run ajustable shocks all around & ride height is 3mm at the most with about 4mm travel all together. as for the bearings i clean mine about 2 or 3 times a season running only 1 drop royal oil in them with no problems & run only 1 side of the bearing shield to help keep dirt out.
Stock gear diff? That should be you next upgrade. You can stiffen up the stock diffs as needed by adding AE black diff thrust lube to slow the action down as needed. Old MiniZ trick!
Again, I dont know what kind of track yall run on, but a 3mm ride height with 4mms of travel rings a bell.
Stock gear diff? That should be you next upgrade. You can stiffen up the stock diffs as needed by adding AE black diff thrust lube to slow the action down as needed. Old MiniZ trick!
Again, I dont know what kind of track yall run on, but a 3mm ride height with 4mms of travel rings a bell.
actually, im gona have to disagree on the ball diffs. they are nice, but not nessecary. one of the most dialed stock cars i ever drove used the gear diffs. just adjust the suspension for a little more sterring, and the thing will carry tons of corner speed. any more than a 180 motor, and yes, get the ball diffs, but for 180 class, you dont need them
__________________
Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
I will have to check out my bearings tonight to see how smooth and free they are. Although my M18Pro handles better than any M18 I had before it, I did notice the bearings are not as free. Time to clean them out perhaps.
One last thing I also wanted to mention to the person who started this thread. All stock motors are not created equal.
I purchased a Team Orion stock and did normal break in process on the motor and it was drawing only .21 amps on an ICE in break-in mode.
I then put on a Team Xray stock motor on the same ICE for a break in and it read .36 amps draw.
Both motors had the same amount of break in and maintenance done on them. The Xray motor was way faster on the track compared to the Orion.
I hear the HPI stock motors are probably the fastest out of the bag but the others can perform well with some additional break in time.
actually, im gona have to disagree on the ball diffs. they are nice, but not nessecary. one of the most dialed stock cars i ever drove used the gear diffs. just adjust the suspension for a little more sterring, and the thing will carry tons of corner speed. any more than a 180 motor, and yes, get the ball diffs, but for 180 class, you dont need them
Thats just the difference between our tracks. We have too much steering and dang near lock down the front diff. That cant be done with a gear diff. I dont even have any front suspension travel. Im using red springs and have set the droop screws allmost bottomed out.
I will have to check out my bearings tonight to see how smooth and free they are. Although my M18Pro handles better than any M18 I had before it, I did notice the bearings are not as free. Time to clean them out perhaps.
One last thing I also wanted to mention to the person who started this thread. All stock motors are not created equal.
I purchased a Team Orion stock and did normal break in process on the motor and it was drawing only .21 amps on an ICE in break-in mode.
I then put on a Team Xray stock motor on the same ICE for a break in and it read .36 amps draw.
Both motors had the same amount of break in and maintenance done on them. The Xray motor was way faster on the track compared to the Orion.
I hear the HPI stock motors are probably the fastest out of the bag but the others can perform well with some additional break in time.
ok my car is dialed with the stock diffs. with nothing in them. i cary alot of speed & it handles like its on rails. the only problem i have is with the motors. we tried afew orion motors & you get to get lucky to get a good one. the hpi is ok but i still like the xray motor best for a stock motor. i dont have any pics of the track so here is the link. www.mushroombowl.com these are old pics & the track was setup for oval in the pic but you can get an idea. here are afew pics of my cars.
yea i find im geting really used to stock diffs ive been running them the most since ball diffs were a little tighter i found and i needed real looseness. im running the hpi motors cause ive noticed with the xrays the motors tend to fail more often. its a real tight track and now i think ive made some improvements to the car. i got a lightened body to improve acceleration and cornering characteristics and im trying a new toe in setup in the rear to hopefully give a little more punch out of the corner without a tendancy to spin and i'll stick in a quantom sport. its amazing on how much different it drives with a different body and my time has improved slightly. im also trying to make my own tire truer from an old eagle racing modified 2 comm lathe just sitting around, im trying to machine a spindel that will hold a micro wheel but im trying to figure out a speed control for rpm control of the lathe. i really dont wanna spend a small fortune on a tire lathe that i only use in the winter, and im tired of bummin off people at the track lol. thanks to all for help!
wow that track looks pretty awesome twan! ive never thought of taking a micro outside to race lol. looks like a pretty good spot to race all my nitro cars and trucks 2. i better find some holiday time and get up there to play
after tonights racing i noticed quite a difference, with rear toe slightly in, different reciever, new battery, a slight modification in steering linkage movement and fairly new broke in foams, i was running the best ive been running since i got it. and i stayed right up with the 7 lappers and actually laped him by a lap . i don't know what happened to it but it got really hooked up and the new batteries i just put in it probably helped slightly but the difference of my old packs were not very much different. i switched the reciever for a more reliable one which removed all signs of glitch interfearance that i had to control before. but i really improved steering acuracy by taking the angle of the linkage and making it parralel from my servo saver to my steering block using spacers. right now its running good but i'll see how long i can keep it there
. i don't know what happened to it but it got really hooked up and the new batteries i just put in it probably helped slightly but the difference of my old packs were not very much different. i switched the reciever for a more reliable one which removed all signs of glitch interfearance that i had to control before. but i really improved steering acuracy by taking the angle of the linkage and making it parralel from my servo saver to my steering block using spacers. right now its running good but i'll see how long i can keep it there 
Similar Threads