Ill try to list everything I used, but keep in mind I did this with parts I already had here so dont hate me if I forget something.
1x 21015-caster block
1x 21016-steering block
1x 21010-rear hub carrier
2x 21101-bearing
2x 21106-bearing
1x 21131-screws
1x 21096-axle pins and spacers
1x 21284-dogbones and springs-can be substituted with cvd axles
1x 21283-stub axles-can be substituted with cvd axles
and of course tires
Only thing else I can think of is spacers I used on the hingepins. I used some old shock limiters from old rebuilt 1/10th shocks. Cant find them without buying a shock rebuild kit, so Ill let you find what works for you.
It takes a little time and careful work, but worth it in my case.
Unfortunately your stock cvds will not work with the 18R tires.
The Turnigy motor is sweet! You should see it in my RC18T, pulls wheelies for 50+ minutes and is 115*F when I stop.
Mate, that has been a massive help!! Greatly appreciated. I already have some spacers that should work, I might even have bearings that would work
hello i just got a spashett edition recoil looking for some pointers??What motor/ speed is every one running??What extra parts should i get??
What motor you run will depend on the track size. On a track w/ a 50' striaght, I ran a Castle 6800. on a track w/ a 90' straight, I ran a 8000. (Both of these are with a 2S lipo). If you are just getting into this, you may want to pick a milder motor to start with The arm mounts tend to break, so get a bunch of those. Besides that, maybe a few spare caster blocks, and tires.
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
In my experience the smaller motors like the Castles run way too hot in these cars no matter how I geared them. I run the Turnigy 18A ESC and 24-35-4400 Motor. Its a larger can motor so it helps out alot. Of course it doesnt turn nearly the RPMs of the others listed, but it has lots of torque, so you can gear it however you like. Its been a very reliable setup, and you won't find anything cheaper on the market, not even brushed.
I have been racing this car pretty hard for months and luckily I have not broken anything yet! I have worn out a few sets of stock tires though.
There is another company making these cars out there. The Carisma GT14 Pro is the same car. They have several bodies and wheels that are a direct fit. I just can't find anyone that ships to the US. Maybe once the supply of parts here is all used up they will have enough demand.
In my experience the smaller motors like the Castles run way too hot in these cars no matter how I geared them. I run the Turnigy 18A ESC and 24-35-4400 Motor. Its a larger can motor so it helps out alot. Of course it doesnt turn nearly the RPMs of the others listed, but it has lots of torque, so you can gear it however you like. Its been a very reliable setup, and you won't find anything cheaper on the market, not even brushed.
I have been racing this car pretty hard for months and luckily I have not broken anything yet! I have worn out a few sets of stock tires though.
There is another company making these cars out there. The Carisma GT14 Pro is the same car. They have several bodies and wheels that are a direct fit. I just can't find anyone that ships to the US. Maybe once the supply of parts here is all used up they will have enough demand.
On the 20mm motors, you have to have the gearing/rollout PERFECT to get the temps good. On a 100ft straight with an 8000kv motor, stock spur, 13t pinion (low (5) timing in castle esc), and 41mm diameter foam tires, it would come off around 165*F. The motors are safe up to 180. Hopefully Castle will have their 26mm diameter motors out soon, and they should be much better suited to this car
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
I know many people run brushless motors up to 180F, it just bothers me for some reason. I feel better when things are under 140F. My 6800 Mamba was plenty fast for the Recoil, but I could never get it under 160F after 30 minutes. I get closer to 40 minutes with the Turnigy, ending about 120F. Should last forever if the bearings hold up!
I know many people run brushless motors up to 180F, it just bothers me for some reason. I feel better when things are under 140F. My 6800 Mamba was plenty fast for the Recoil, but I could never get it under 160F after 30 minutes. I get closer to 40 minutes with the Turnigy, ending about 120F. Should last forever if the bearings hold up!
30 minutes?!?!? holy cow, thats a lot of continuous running. Cooler is better if possible, but 160F is fine though, believe me. I had the same motor in the car all season and 165 is about the coolest it ever ran and the motor never got any slower. When I TQd at micro nats it ran 180-190 all weekend just fine, although I wouldnt push it any farther for everyday use though.
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
I used to run my 10th scale cars all day at the track hitting 160-180, never had a problem. Doing speed runs I would hit over 200 sometimes when I pushed it a little too hard. A decent brushless motor can take it over and over.
Now I race on a small 18th track. We have no formal system or timing equipment, but we have a few guys and we sometimes count laps with a stopwatch for each other. In my 18s the 6800 is WAY too much for this track, 5400 is all the speed even the best of us can use. For the Recoil the 6800 was just about right, but I can get the same speeds and more runtime with the Turnigy 24mm. Now I am spoiled and I think something is wrong if I ever see 140F.
We time laps for 30 minutes. The Recoil makes it no problem with any setup. My 18s keep going another 20 min. We would time longer, but we usually need a break by 30.
What motor you run will depend on the track size. On a track w/ a 50' striaght, I ran a Castle 6800. on a track w/ a 90' straight, I ran a 8000. (Both of these are with a 2S lipo). If you are just getting into this, you may want to pick a milder motor to start with The arm mounts tend to break, so get a bunch of those. Besides that, maybe a few spare caster blocks, and tires.
new to carpet I race 1/10 scale touring......thanks for the tips
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wrecking ball
sox
worm power
hollywood
Racing? Bashing? For racing I run a Team Psycho Cells 1850 2S lipo. Tons of rip, good runtime, pretty much the best thats out there for racing. If your bashing, you can get a bigger capacity pack for more runtime, or if your looking for stupid crazy fast, you can go 3S lipo
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Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
For racing, definately 2S lipo. Like I said before, I would reccomend the 1850 pack. I believe they are $55. You can email support@teampsychocells.com for exact pricing/details.
Depends on your budget. The Airtronics 94761 is pretty much the best micro servo out there, but they are pricey. I ran a Hitec 85MG and it did well.
__________________
Mike Gee
Team Driver For: Exotek/Castle/Psycho Cells/GQ Tires/Darkside Designz/Rad Racing
Proud Supporter of: MRL (Micro Racing League) / Final Thoughts RC Club
The arm mounts tend to break, so get a bunch of those. Besides that, maybe a few spare caster blocks, and tires.
and the motor never got any slower. When I TQd at micro nats it ran 180-190 all weekend just fine, although I wouldnt push it any farther for everyday use though.
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